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abunai

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#1
First post here.
Hope it better than other forums I've joined.
I'm in the process of trying to save a Sheldon Lathe.
It's in a shed that has lost a roof and wall.
Stamp on it is LWQU 6827
Rusty, but most things still move.
I've got it down to the gear box, bed, and one leg.
Any info on this lathe????
 
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abunai

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#3
Yes I have. Good site.
I couldn't find an exact match. I know I might not be able to.
There were some close to it.
I've googled the stamp number and came up with nothing that looks just like it.
 

dlane

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#4
Welcome, there are a few here with Sheldon lathes, I have a TE1236 p Sheldon that I haven't messed with yet, it needs disassembly, cleaning, lube ,reassembled.
Yahoo groups has some info on them , but the site is a pita,
Someone should chime in soon.
 
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abunai

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#5
Have some pictures of the lathe.
First time trying to post pictures. hope it works.

sheldon001.JPG sheldon002.JPG sheldon003.JPG sheldon004.JPG sheldon005.JPG
 

dlane

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#8
This is the one I have, there is a guy that worked for Sheldon on yahoo groups named John Knox
He is a wealth of information about Sheldon lathes, don't use back gears to remove stuck chuck.
IMG_0908.JPG IMG_0893.JPG
He tells everybody that with good reason.
4gsr , is probably our Sheldon expert he might be able to answer your questions.
 

mikey

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#9
Awesome, another Hawaii guy on the forum - welcome to HM, Abunai (great handle, by the way)!

Ken/4gsr will hopefully be along to comment. I agree with dlane; John Knox is the man and I, too, would suggest you join the Sheldon Yahoo group.
 

intjonmiller

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#10
I came because of the great username, too! にほんご が すこし できる

気を付けて! :)
 

thomas s

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#11
Abunai, Welcome to the forum.
 

mikey

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#12
I came because of the great username, too! にほんご が すこし できる

気を付けて! :)
My Google Translate skills are mighty, Jon!
 
D

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#13
Here's some miscellaneous notes put together by John Knox that may shed some light on what the serial number indicates. I was not able to find a service manual for your age machine. If you like, join the Sheldon Lathe group over on Yahoo and post what you have there and hopefully John will tune in and offer some help. He may have the service manual for this lathe you can purchase from him very cheaply. Ken
 

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abunai

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#14
Seems like some post on here have disappeared.
Am I missing something???
 
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abunai

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#15
This lathe has Bronze bearings i the headstock.
How would I adjust the play in it????
Is there a retrofit for roller bearings????
 
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abunai

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#16
I probably should have asked this before, but is this lathe worth rebuilding?????
As far as I know, not to many people here (Hawaii) even know what a lathe is.
Shipping to the states would be way to expensive.
Parts seem hard to find.
Even if I part it out, shipping for the parts would be expensive.
To me it seems like a waste to NOT get it going again.
I really don't need another lathe. I'm happy with my Atlas.
 
D

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#17
I probably should have asked this before, but is this lathe worth rebuilding?????
As far as I know, not to many people here (Hawaii) even know what a lathe is.
Shipping to the states would be way to expensive.
Parts seem hard to find.
Even if I part it out, shipping for the parts would be expensive.
To me it seems like a waste to NOT get it going again.
I really don't need another lathe. I'm happy with my Atlas.
I guess it depends on how much time you have on your hands. It could be a long shot to get running again and it may not. There's no way to convert the headstock to Timken bearings like the newer one's have. There's nothing wrong with bronze bushings for headstock bearings as long as they are kept well oiled. The chances of finding a tailstock that would fit is slim to none. Nothing wrong with adapting one from another brand of lathe. I guess the first question would be, "What kind of shape is the bed in?" Is there wear in the bed? Any gouges or drag marks in the bed ways? If not, that's great. If there is any kind of wear or damage, may not be worth messing with. I suspect this came off of the military base there in Hawaii from WWII. I wouldn't throw it out just yet. To me, it looks like all of the drive system is there in place, just needs to be gone thru cleaned oiled new belts and be good as new. May need to replace the motor. Overall, it doesn't look that bad for a 75 something year old lathe. I say keep it! We can help guide you thru fixing it up. Always open for challenges. Ken
 

Glenn Brooks

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#18
This lathe has Bronze bearings i the headstock.
How would I adjust the play in it????
Is there a retrofit for roller bearings????
Welcome to the forum and Aloha! We lived in Enchanted Lakes for years - still miss the place. Typically you can adjust the bronze bearings in the headstock by using brass shim stock to raise or lower the bearings in relation to the spindle. Then tighten the bolts that hold the bearing caps until the spindle just spins freely AND has less than .002" vertical play - or whatever Sheldon published for max vertical play.

Often after shimming, one needs to scrape the bearings round to achieve a uniform, round, close fit with the spindle bearing surface. Not hard to do. I used a sharp, 4" mild steel knife blade to scrape the bearings on my old 1919 Dalton lathe. Use dykum blue to find out where the highs and low are in the bearing wear pattern. Just lightly scrape off the high spots until the spindle spins freely, and doesn't move up or down much.

Glenn
 

woodchucker

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#19
This lathe has Bronze bearings i the headstock.
How would I adjust the play in it????
Is there a retrofit for roller bearings????
There is an advantage to bronze over roller. The roller are less smooth than bronze., so for preceision work the bronze would be preferred. Just my opinion. Not the gospel.
 

Silverbullet

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#20
I'd try reworking the lathe I'd bet cleaning and oiling will be the most . Even replacing or fitting the bronze bearings isn't a bad or hard fix. Sheldon have always been heavy duty LATHES even more so then the same size south bends. More mass in the ass so to speak. I had a good variable speed Sheldon forty years ago I still kick my own ass for selling it. Keep it you won't be sorry.
 
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abunai

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#21
Posted pictures were after i took off some parts. I have the tail stock. It looked like everything is there. No accessories though.
I'll have to clean up the bed to see what it looks like under all the dust and surface rust. The part i cleaned to get the numbers didn't look to bad.
I hope to get the rest of it home today. Just hope the cabinet is not to heavy. If it is, I'll have to take it apart and bring it home another day.
 
D

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#22
That little lathe has some weight to it. Don't let it fool you. Completely assembled around 1100 lbs. So be careful! I would suggest taking it apart as much as you can for moving. Ken
 
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abunai

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#23
I got the bed and leg home.
Cabinet is just to heavy to move.
I'll have to break it down and see.
 
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abunai

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#24
Forgot something at the site, so i had to go back today.
Took some tools to see if I could break it down.
Got the motor out. It was heavy.
Took the door, back plate and side plate off. They were heavy too.
Started to take out the belt dirve, but I had metric allen wenches instead of standard.
I thought I had grabbed the correct ones when i left the house.
I think with the belt drive out, everything will be light enough to carry.
I just hope the bed is straight.
 
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abunai

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#25
Anyone have any idea what color it's suppose to be????
It has been painted red, but I see some green and gray in places.
 
D

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#26
Paint it any color you want. Factory color was generally a shade of gray

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 
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#27
My color is Rustrolum smoke gray.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 
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abunai

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#28
I kind of like gray lathes.
My Atlas is blue. It's OK, but I like gray better.
 

wa5cab

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#29
Hee hee. You can paint machinery any color that you like so long as it's gray.
 
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abunai

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#30
I got the rest of it out yesterday.It's still in the truck, but I'll unload it today.
Need to make a rolling stand for it.
I'll check the bed and if it's good, I'll start the clean-up.
Need to look for a motor. It looks like it had a 220 3ph.
Going to change to a 220 1ph or 110.
 
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