Seting up a barrel?

T

TrxR

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How are you guys setting up your barrels in the lathe when threading and chambering? What are you using for a chuck ? are you using anything on the outboard side?

Thanks
 
We use the thru the headstock method, chamber end held in a 4 jaw and other end held in a spider attached to the outboard end of the spindle. "L" shaped aluminum made from old road signs (about 1/4" wide and 1/4" long on the short leg) between the barrel and the 4 jaw to let the barrel pivot when dialing in at the spider. An indicator rod is used to dial in at the proposed throat and about 2" ahead of that.
Bobby
 
Bobby Bailey said:
We use the thru the headstock method, chamber end held in a 4 jaw and other end held in a spider attached to the outboard end of the spindle. "L" shaped aluminum made from old road signs (about 1/4" wide and 1/4" long on the short leg) between the barrel and the 4 jaw to let the barrel pivot when dialing in at the spider. An indicator rod is used to dial in at the proposed throat and about 2" ahead of that.
Bobby
Click to expand...

Same as above.
I use two 001" indicators to get it as close to zero as possible. Then swap them for two 0001" indicators. As I am not doing this as a business but for my own use. I take the time to get the 0001" indicators showing zero movement when the 4 jaw is spun. Can take long time to get there when you first start. It took me an hour and a half for the first barrel that I ever set up in the four jaw. Now I can do it within 20 minutes to half an hour. Some professional gunsmiths will laugh at this but they do not know how long it takes to get to zero runout. 0002" is acceptable. Time means money. Most uses bushes to centre the rifle I watched a youtube video where a gunsmith, (Riflesmith, whatever title you wish to give) Did not use a dial indicator for any part of the set up procedure.
I believe you get out of anything what you put into it. When $$$$$ become involved the need to speed up the process to make it quicker becomes the norm.
You will probably find that most well known target shooters do their own barrel work.

The Professional out there probably aint going to like this but it is fact.

Cheers
 
Why would you assume I don't know how long it takes to get to zero runout or that I do less than proper work just because I make a profit. You assume a lot in making blanket statements about gunsmiths.
Bobby
 
BorderSika said:
Same as above.
I use two 001" indicators to get it as close to zero as possible. Then swap them for two 0001" indicators. As I am not doing this as a business but for my own use. I take the time to get the 0001" indicators showing zero movement when the 4 jaw is spun. Can take long time to get there when you first start. It took me an hour and a half for the first barrel that I ever set up in the four jaw. Now I can do it within 20 minutes to half an hour. Some professional gunsmiths will laugh at this but they do not know how long it takes to get to zero runout. 0002" is acceptable. Time means money. Most uses bushes to centre the rifle I watched a youtube video where a gunsmith, (Riflesmith, whatever title you wish to give) Did not use a dial indicator for any part of the set up procedure.
I believe you get out of anything what you put into it. When $$$$$ become involved the need to speed up the process to make it quicker becomes the norm.
You will probably find that most well known target shooters do their own barrel work.

The Professional out there probably aint going to like this but it is fact.

Cheers
Click to expand...

what indicator rod u use ?
if you do only your own barrels do u use one ore 2 reamers
 
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Just out of curiosity, Bobby, I am assuming you indicate the bore on the breech end, and if necessary recut the threads (or cut them new) but what about the muzzle end? Do you rely on the concentricity between the OD and the bore being there, or do you also work off the bore on the muzzle end? Also, how do you accommodate jumping over the rifling with your indicator?
 
JT. said:
what indicator rod u use ?
if you do only your own barrels do u use one ore 2 reamers
Click to expand...

I use 4 Mitutoyo indicators. I believe they are called pocket indicators. They are the same indicators used by many professional Smiths. I can get right up into the chamber to check all is ok after pre drilling. I can then start chambering with a finishing reamer only. I use two Noga dial indicator magnetic stands.
It has taken me a while to gather all the tooling together. Possibly over a period of two years. I also have a Gretan action truing jig as well as an action truing mandrel from Manson reamers.

Over here in Scotland you are talking £800-850 for a rebarrel. That is like just under $1300, to get a new barrel fitted. I have bought all the items needed to do my own rebarreling. Barrel included. For possibly around the same price as a rebarrel would cost me. I have more than one Rifle needing rebarrelled. The price of doing so reduces my costs with each additional rebarrel.

Cheers
 
The indicator rods I use are the Gordy gritters Grizzly rods. Sorry I thought you meant which indicators do I use. I ain't too long out of bed, have not had my coffee yet.

Cheers
 
Tony, We normally work everything from the chamber end on a new barrel. Using a Grizzly rod with a bushing fitted to the bore, the rod is inserted into the barrel to the area of the throat and also ahead about two inches. This way we align the first two inches of the bore with the proposed throat giving the bullet a good start into the rifleing. The off end of the rod is lightly held in the tailstock with the indicator riding the rod close to the barrel. By dialing the tailstock in and out we can move back and forth between the two locations needing indicating. Only one indicator is needed. (actually two, a .001 for roughing and a .0001 for final). The 4 jaw is used to align the throat area and the outboard spider is used to align the area two inches ahead. As a double check the indicator is run directly on the lands and grooves, hand turn the chuck slowly and the indicator just bounces over the lands.
On some set backs/rechambers we have used an indicator rod with a fitted bushing in the muzzle end and a second indicator riding in the existing chamber. This aligns things kinda like between centers.
Keep in mind, bores are not concentric with the OD and bores are not straight.
Bobby
 
Right, hence my question. I didn't believe you would indicate the OD of the barrel anywhere along the length, and a bank has no roughed in chamber, correct? So you must start with indicating the rifled bore. I jut wasn't sure how you got around the rifling, to get it to run within a tenth or so. Plus I know barrels aren't straight. I have turned a few between centers, and using a T-mike, checked wall thickness and been a bit shocked that they are as crooked as they are. Straightened them, returned and all was well.
 
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