Sheet metal bending and cutting?

Thanks, good suggestions. I'd be a little nervous trying to cut too large of a sheet on the table saw -- handheld circular saw probably is how I'll end up going for that. Cuts on the table saw using the fence (what for wood would normally be ripping) sounds like it could work, though I really like using a large crosscut sled I made for medium to smaller pieces.

Interesting tip about back cutting. With this .050 aluminum I don't think I could pull that off with a table saw or radial arm saw. Could you score it several times with a knife to help the bend?

Will start working with the aluminum in the next couple of days, and see how everything goes. Appreciate all the input.
 
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If your workpiece fits in your crosscut sled, that's a good way to go.
 
Ensure you wear good hearing protection when cutting metal with your saw. It will be hellaciously loud.


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I cut all kinds of aluminum up to 1.5" tube and angle and sheet up to 1/2" on my table saw with a carbide non-ferrous blade and a crosscut slider. The non-ferrous blade has almost no rake.
It's safe, not loud and cuts beautifully polished square cuts.
The finish on the cuts will depend on the run-out of your table saw.
 
Franko said:
I cut all kinds of aluminum up to 1.5" tube and angle and sheet up to 1/2" on my table saw with a carbide non-ferrous blade and a crosscut slider. The non-ferrous blade has almost no rake. It's safe, not loud and cuts beautifully polished square cuts.
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I'd be interested to know the make/model of the blade you're using.

Good username!
 
Frank O said:
I'd be interested to know the make/model of the blade you're using. Good username!
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Frank, I have two of them. One is a Dewalt and the other a Delta.
They are both 1/8" kerf 80 tooth triple chip 10" blades with -5º rake.
They both do the job.

I wouldn't get a thin kerf blade for that purpose. You want the blade to be as stiff as possible.

I also wouldn't recommend putting one on a miter saw.
I broke a 10" miter saw in half trying to use one. It was a very scary experience.
The saw probably had a bit of run-out and the 2.5" rod I was trying to cut was probably too big.
The blade snagged, made a very scary sound and broke the fence in half, killing the saw.

No idiots were killed or maimed making this story.
 
Franko said:
I wouldn't get a thin kerf blade for that purpose. You want the blade to be as stiff as possible.
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Interesting about that point. Right now I'm looking at cutting .050" aluminum sheet, and was thinking that a thinner kerf would get through with less resistance, letting it run cooler and lose less material. Do you think the thicker kerf would be important for material like that, or did that apply to thicker workpieces such as rod, tubing etc?
 
I can bend up to 5/8" plate with my home shop 20T finger brake....never needed to do more than 3/8" which it does incredibly well. You do need to weld the kits up yourself... If you have a press at home, this is an awesome addition that is easily removed to be able press again
tq60 said:
Thicker stuff will overwhelm any "affordable" finger brake.
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Swag Off Road
 
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