Sheldon Exl-56b - "fixer Upper" Is There Any Hope, Doctor?


17,000 puts it in the early 1950's. You can find out more information on the Sheldon forum on Yahoo. There's a couple guys on there that can get you a near exact date. Or you could go to Borun & Coch and pay to find out more....

Edit:
http://www.bourn-koch.com/home/cnc_machine_parts/machine_type/horizontal_turning_machines.html
 
Nice job so far. A real shame machinery is treated like that (our tax dollars at work). Mike
 
It's going to cost you more than the lathe is worth to restore, but I know that is not a reason to restore old iron. I had a SEWQM 11X56 Sheldon. Parts prices were totally out of reason from S&B. I think I may have a copy of the parts book-yours if you want it. Gmasterman@aol.com
 
God Bless you for putting the effort into bringing this machine back to service. I have almost the same Sheldon minus the follow rest and taper attachment. Guess I'll have to keep looking :). I like the electrolysis method myself, it gets deep into the metal. Good luck, we'll be watching for future updates.
Mark
 
I have an EXL-44B serial number 20254 which is 1955. Definitely join the yahoo group. The yahoo group web site architecture is beyond horrendous and is the main reason I don't go there nearly as much as I'd like to. I don't know what the deal is with Yahoo and why they don't bring the group web sites into the 80's but it is a real shame.
Do you think you can really make a decent lathe out of that unit? I'm not being critical-I'd love to know if it is possible to make the lathe turn good parts after seeing all the rust. That isn't surface rust either. Maybe it will facilitate oil retention in the pitting:).
The guru for Sheldon is John Knox. I imagine you already know this by now. I spoke with him today about my lathe. I have been having trouble getting it to turn tapered parts using the telescopic taper attachment and he is helping me with this issue. He isn't just a Sheldon expert BTW. He knows lathes very well and I would hazard to say he could recondition a machine as well as most experts I have "talked" with on forums. He is a really great guy and will take calls at his personal number.
I have done a lot of work to mine. I recently did the headstock bearings, new 3-phase motor, VFD and it is a really great machine other than some binding in the taper turning department. I got so frustrated that I came within a second of just jamming the tool bit into the part to see if I could break something. Irish temper almost got me but I'm old enough now to temper my temper IYKWIM.
If I can help please let me know and best of luck.
My lathe has the L00 spindle which I am happy about but I am wondering why yours has a threaded spindle? Is the spindle serviceable? What is the hole through it size?
Nice work so far and the "spooge tank" is by far the best way to remove rust IMO.
Another good site for information.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/
 
d4xycrq -

You really got a good deal on that old 56EXL. I have one identical to it that I have had about 13 yrs. Got mine from a fellow at Texas AM Univ. It had been in a university shop and was sold excess, before that probably was a gov surplus that was given to AM. The only change I made to mine was finding an apron with the lever clutch and swaping it out. The lever clutch is so much nicer than the knob type.

I noticed the crank handle you have. I have a Atlas shaper that I need need a crank for. Would you consider selling it if yours has the 3/8" hole?

Good luck on your restore efforts.
 
Cactus: I’m shopping for a Shaper, so will hang on to the tool holders.

RandyC: Yep, shame - the lathe was not whooped, so extra shame it was stored outside.

Matt: Thanks Matt, it is coming together so far. Well, apart. So far, the only part that is fighting me is the tailstock. The Jacobs chuck is out of the spindle, but the spindle won’t budge. Soaking in PB Blaster. It will go in the electrolysis bath next.

Clue: I’m looking for a Shaper, so all the bits and pieces will be needed some day!

Mzayd: The pictures you need are the carriage locks top and bottom? Perhaps this helps?

Sheldon%20EXL56B%20Lathe%20009_zpscwlew4rv.jpg

You can see the carriage lock in the left side of the above. Also, you can see the carriage lock dropped down on the feedshaft in this picture, too. Notice it has a pin.

Sheldon%20EXL56B%20Lathe%20001_zpsn3iynbvs.jpg

4gsr: Early fifties? Makes sense. Thanks for the heads up on the Yahoo group.

FOMOGO: The guys working surplus sales just don’t care. That, and they don’t have enough space for indoor storage, no doubt. I’m working in on a Bridgeport that was stored outside was well. You get to understand where water goes and doesn’t go!

Gerry: Thanks for he offer on the parts book - but I think the one it came with will do. As far as being worth less than the cost to restore; story of my life. So far, and touch wood, I haven’t found any big dollar items to replace. I suppose bearings are where the money are. I will have to make new dials, though. The ones it came with are too pitted. I’ll make ‘em myself.

MWS: Thanks for the words of encouragement! I’ve taken the compound out of electrolysis, and the whole saddle is in there now.

Challenger: Thanks for confirming the date - early fifties! My intention is to get the lathe back together and turn a test bar. I’ll post the results, but you folks will have to be patient! If the results are atrocious, the lathe is a candidate for scrape and flake - and intend to do myself. You know what, I had the same thought; the pits will retain the way oil! Talk about whistling in the dark! The spindle is 1.375” ID.

Bcriner: The lever type clutch spoils ya doesn’t it! And thanks for the “good luck” I’ll need it!

Update: Took the compound out of the electrolysis tank today. The dial is toast. Pits are bad - rendering the scale unreadable. I guess I’ll learn how to make new ones! Or perhaps the common South Bend ones may fit, or be made to fit. Even before the rust, the small dials would have been a bear to read. Definitely a candidate for a large dial conversion.
No heavy rust pits on the compound itself - and surprisingly, no beaver knawing on the compound. This lathe was adult owned and operated.

Haven’t touched the headstock yet. Hope the bearings are salvageable.

Thanks guys!

I’ve learnt a lot here, and am applying all the knowledge on this ‘challenge’.

Ray
 
I'll be surprised if the dials on a Southbend are interchangeable. I think the Sheldon 1/2-8 acme screw for the crossfeed is an unusual thread. I guess any dial that reads 000"-.250" will work. I'll be watching to see how the dials are made. I need the following likely make one for an old Mill.
The rusted together parts should all come apart with your fingers if your spooge tank is working properly. I have disassembled parts that were severely rust welded together after a good soak. It's like a miracle process that attacks rust like nothing else. If it is working right then the parts should start foaming big time when put into the tank.
You may know all this-just in case you didnt
 
Challenger,

Yessir, the saddle is in the electrolysis tank foaming away. By the way, got introduced to electrolysis when restoring Ford tractors. Matter of fact just hopped off my Jubilee - was plowing snow. And my 8N was getting a workout too.

And I hope you are right about the 0-.250" dials being rather interchangeable - and available! Making them is easy. Scribing them and numbering them would be a bit fiddly.

Ray
 
Turns out the compound on the EXL-56 goes from .000-.125" And the hole through the dial is .700" The dial itself is roughly 1 3/8".
My South Bend Heavy 10 goes from .000-.200", curiously enough.

Ray
 
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