Shizuoka manual mill help

Just some of the things I'm dealing with, crushed oil lines, oily sludge in the table feed gearbox, and motor windings filled with gunk. I will get through it all, it it will be a fine machine
 
Hi all! Sorry for the delay on the update, here goes. I am using the mill now, it's working well, and everything is getting oiled. This machine will last longer than I will. I have also installed a Touch DRO on X, Y, and Z knee. I will add the scale to the quill soon. The oiling system for a manual mill is extensive. It actually has 2 seperate systems, one for the knee ways, lift screw and gears associated with lifting. It has a power knee that works well. This mill would be challenging to use without a power knee, just because of how heavy the weight involved with moving the knee. The second system lubes the X and Y ways and Y screw and nut, and of course there are 2 manual pumps and reservoirs. I removed the table to check the oiling, good thing I did, I found a corroded, badly leaking line, oil was not getting where it needed to go. I made all the DRO scale mounts and a arm to hold the tablet I use for my DRO. Here are the pictures, enjoy!phone pictures 2267.jpgphone pictures 2269.jpgphone pictures 2273.jpgphone pictures 2277.jpgphone pictures 2282.jpgphone pictures 2278.jpgphone pictures 2285.jpgphone pictures 2293.jpgphone pictures 2309.jpgphone pictures 2347.jpgphone pictures 2351.jpgphone pictures 2354.jpgphone pictures 2403.jpgphone pictures 2406.jpgphone pictures 2502.jpgphone pictures 2517.jpgphone pictures 2504.jpgphone pictures 2547.jpgphone pictures 2576.jpgphone pictures 2583.jpg
 
many thanks for the photos, Edward. Actually i like your approach to Z axis DRO mounting better than mine. Good idea. First time i can see X axis drive - looks so well engineered. The only thing i don't like with this setup is, that it is hard to do CNC control on X axis. changing ACME lead screw to ball screw, nut arrangement while the nut is driven will be the pain in the ass:/ I was thinking about blocking the nut rigid and drive the screw when in CNC mode, and block the screw when in manual mode. Hard task. You have convinced me to take my table out (this will be the first time since 1973!) for inspection and maintenance. But not tomorrow:D:D
 
The table comes off easy, the 2 end plates that the screw attaches to, and the gib. The only thing is the table cannot be lifted up, it needs to be slid all the way off to the side.
 
Edward, do you think there is enough space to mount double ball nut inside this rotating nut arrangement? I plan to go with 4005 ball screw - 40 mm screw diameter, 5mm pitch. The nut body O.D. is like 62.5 mm (not counting flange). I know some versions of this model were equipped with ball screws.
 
Edward, do you think there is enough space to mount double ball nut inside this rotating nut arrangement? I plan to go with 4005 ball screw - 40 mm screw diameter, 5mm pitch. The nut body O.D. is like 62.5 mm (not counting flange). I know some versions of this model were equipped with ball screws.
Hi Bogi, sorry for the delay, I measured the Y screw, it was approximately 1.388" (35.2552mm) I would zoom my already posted pictures to your set caliper 35mm, and measure the existing nut with your caliper. You would be zooming the pictures to actual scale. I hope this helps
 
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