My latest scheme involves turning a 5/8" stop on a 12" long 1/4" diameter rod with a coaxial 3/8" thread on the other end of the stop. As a semi-rank beginner, I have serious doubts about my ability to turn a longish skinny rod without massive errors. It's bad enough that I need to turn 1/2" of 3/8" thread. So I concocted the following plan. I'd appreciate any comments on the practicality of the approach.
1. Hacksaw off about 3" of 3/4" diameter mild steel rod.
2. Chuck it up in the 3-jaw, knowing full well that this is not perfectly centered, but as good as I can do without a 4-jaw. Leave about 2" outside the jaws.
3. Center drill the end.
4. Drill the end for 1/2" depth of 1/4"-minus x
5. Turn the diameter to 5/8" for 1/2".
6. Using a parting tool, plunge-cut the shoulder of the 5/8" diameter section 1/8" deep to get down to the major diameter of the 3/8" section to be threaded.
7. Do this several times moving toward the chucks till I get 1/2" of the 3/8" diameter section uncovered, pausing to turn the motor off each time I move the cutting tool and hand-turn the spindle to make sure I'm not going to hit the chuck.
8. Once I get to 1/2" of 3/8" section uncovered, part it off.
9. Unchuck, reverse and rechuck by the 5/8" diameter section, leaving the 3/8" section toward the tailstock. I think this leaves me all the concentricity on the 3/8" threaded section and the 5/8" stop and the 1/4" hole that I'm going to get out of a three-jaw.
10. Thread the 3/8" section.
Here's the question, finally.
That 1/4"-minus hole I drilled - what's my chances that pressing/loctiting/silver soldering a 1/4" rod into that will wind up with little runout? Do/did I need to turn it smaller, turn the 1/4" rod to a smaller diameter and tinker till I get a hard wringing fit? Suggestions? (leave out the one that I give up any thought of doing decent machining; I've already thought of that one myself) Or should I silver solder the rod in first?
1. Hacksaw off about 3" of 3/4" diameter mild steel rod.
2. Chuck it up in the 3-jaw, knowing full well that this is not perfectly centered, but as good as I can do without a 4-jaw. Leave about 2" outside the jaws.
3. Center drill the end.
4. Drill the end for 1/2" depth of 1/4"-minus x
5. Turn the diameter to 5/8" for 1/2".
6. Using a parting tool, plunge-cut the shoulder of the 5/8" diameter section 1/8" deep to get down to the major diameter of the 3/8" section to be threaded.
7. Do this several times moving toward the chucks till I get 1/2" of the 3/8" diameter section uncovered, pausing to turn the motor off each time I move the cutting tool and hand-turn the spindle to make sure I'm not going to hit the chuck.
8. Once I get to 1/2" of 3/8" section uncovered, part it off.
9. Unchuck, reverse and rechuck by the 5/8" diameter section, leaving the 3/8" section toward the tailstock. I think this leaves me all the concentricity on the 3/8" threaded section and the 5/8" stop and the 1/4" hole that I'm going to get out of a three-jaw.
10. Thread the 3/8" section.
Here's the question, finally.
That 1/4"-minus hole I drilled - what's my chances that pressing/loctiting/silver soldering a 1/4" rod into that will wind up with little runout? Do/did I need to turn it smaller, turn the 1/4" rod to a smaller diameter and tinker till I get a hard wringing fit? Suggestions? (leave out the one that I give up any thought of doing decent machining; I've already thought of that one myself) Or should I silver solder the rod in first?
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