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Silver soldering bandsaw blades ???

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umahunter

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#1
Ok I made up a jig to get a perfect 20 degree scarf joint. I ground it on rougher grit paper to give tooth. I cleaned with acetone.i used 56 percent silver solder bought on ebay and harris silver solder flux. I wrapped in fiberglass cloth immediately so it cools slower .sanded smooth.i seemed to get good penitration between the two halves. I mounted the blade and tensioned all was good I cut a piece of 2 inch round aluminum. And some 3/4 aluminum square and it cut great then about an hour later i hear pop and the blade broke at the joint. What I'm wondering is when setting up the blade to solder should I leave a lil bit of a gap so there's more solder ??? Any other tips only other thing I can think is the solder i got isn't really 56 % but the guy had all good reviews or I put the pieces to close together thanks for any tips 20180714_031446.jpg
 

Ed ke6bnl

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#2
I had the same experience with silver brazing the blades. and made a very nice jig to hold the blade.
 
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f350ca

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#3
Could the blade become too soft, cooling slowly? I read a post saying you should anneal the joint after soldering. So after grinding the joint smooth I started annealing them to a light blue colour. My joints started breaking. Quit annealing them and seldom have a joint fail. By the jagged edge I'd say the blade was failing.
Could the toothed surface from a course grind be making the silver joint too thick. I use a fairly fine grinding wheel.

Greg
 

Kernbigo

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#4
i have silver solder mine for years, if they break it is in another spot not the weld. I use sheet silver solder, grind it to 20 deg. angle put it my jig, flux it, and put the small piece of sheet silver solder between the grind angles. Solder it let it cool then heat it back up to a blue color to anneal it.
 
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umahunter

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Lol I tried a new blade and it came out crooked I made my jig from .125 aluminum angle and with the slot it made it to weak and it warped
 

Kernbigo

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#6
You should of made the fixture out of steel angle iron, with a groove milled in it to keep the 2 piece of the blade straight, and i used carbide lathe tool inserts to hold the blade down to keep it from moving. With the write fixture it isn't had to make a blade
 

royesses

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#7
Here is a video from Toms techniques that may be interesting. He uses silver brazing and a fixture.
 

Kernbigo

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#8
Very similar to what I do èxcept I use sheet silver solder, they never break

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

KMoffett

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#9
Another blade soldering fixture out of scrap. Switched from wire silver solder to thin ribbon. Worked a little better. Never had a re-break at those joints.
1/4" Aluminum bar with a channel cut out. An adjustable, 1/8" plate with a matching channel and two slots to allow for different blade widths. And two U channels width slightly different leg lengths. One end of the bar clamped in a vise.

Ken

BladeSolderFixture.jpg
 
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umahunter

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#10
Here's my new fixture made with some scrap aluminum 1/4 inch angle lol my last one was to thin and warped and I got a crooked blade 20180721_015155.jpg 20180721_015155.jpg
 
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umahunter

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#11
Lol my last one that I broke after it bent lol don't use 1/8 aluminum 20180716_191630.jpg
 

KBeitz

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#12
Been there done that... For the price of blades I found it to be a waste of time.

Silver solder blade fix.JPG
 
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