Simple tool I made for the drill press

[ScrapMetal]

I have some offset holes to drill in some SS disks that I've made for a project. I've got the pieces blued and a very nice, accurate little "X" where the holes should be. It's just a simple drill press and I don't have an X-Y table on it so I needed a way to center the drill bit on my "X"s.

Grabbed a coffee can and pulled out a socket head bolt that looked stainless (mystery metal), threw it on the bandsaw and cut the head off. I then chucked it up in the lathe and faced where the "head" used to be. That end was then put into the chuck. I reset my slide and compound and proceeded to cut a taper using only the compound. First time doing that! I think it came out fairy well.



To give you some idea of scale, it's sitting on a standard size stack of post-it notes. I figure that I can put this in the drill press chuck and position the work underneath it. Once I have the work secured swap it out with a center drill and I'm on my way to making holes.

I'm still open for suggestions if there's a better way do get it done though.

-Ron

 

[Galileu]

Hi,

I face the same problem quite often; me too, I have a drill press and no xy table. The way I usually go about it, after marking the piece, is to chuck a center drill in the drill press and lower this on to the mark with the drill press stopped; after the piece is located it is clamped in place, the drill press is started and a small center mark is drilled with the center drill. The center drill is then replaced with the drill bit and nor mal drilling can proceed.

José

 

[BarkerJohn]

Good idea Ron. Think I'll make one (or two or more in different lengths) for when there isn't enough room for a wiggler

 

[Old Iron]

How about just using a center punch and make the mark with it. You can always get one of the spring loaded ones to make the first mark then use a regular punch.


Paul

 

[Galileu]

How about just using a center punch and make the mark with it. You can always get one of the spring loaded ones to make the first mark then use a regular punch.


Paul

I find it very difficult to punch on a cross mark; usually the punch is slightly offset to the mark I have carefully made.

José

 

[sic semper tyrannis]

For ultimate precision use an optical center punch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6Imt9vgDqE

But with a magnifying glass you can get pretty close.

 

[Old Iron]

I find it very difficult to punch on a cross mark; usually the punch is slightly offset to the mark I have carefully made.

José

Thats why I suggested Spring loaded one it has a small point you just push it down and it pops a small mark. Thenuse bigger ones to set it deep enough.

 

[Tony Wells]

The old rules said you use a prick-punch and felt the crossing lines and lightly marked it, then went for the center punch. Optical punches are great. I have an older one that I get out now and then. Mostly I just go by feel, though. Larger work that won't go across the mill usually doesn't need much better accuracy than I get with a couple of select punches.

 

[ScrapMetal]

I've found that even when I center punch I still have a difficult time getting the center drill on the exact spot. I can easily be off by a number of thousandths and when I'm working with smaller pieces that is unacceptable.

The problem, as I see it, is that once you have a center punch mark on the piece you still need to somehow center the drill bit on the mark. You could start out with a bit that is small enough to fit within the punch mark but I think you run the chance of the bit deflecting on the side of the mark itself. You could just use the tiny bit to position the piece but with a bit that small in a larger chuck the accuracy could suffer. Basically that's what this little tool helps you do anyway but with a more positive seat in the chuck.

It's probably pretty humorous to watch as I'll actually sit there hunched over with a magnifying glass, and some extra light, in order to line this stuff up. :nuts: :biggrin:

-Ron

 

[Tony Wells]

Getting the drill to stay centered usually depends on the angle ground on the center punch. It sure can walk out if the angle doesn't match the drill. I have some for 118 and 135 degree drills.