Slightly off Topic - Wrench Types and Techniques- Removing Stubborn Nuts

D

dansawyer

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I am trying to separate a turbo charger from the exhaust manifold. The manifold gasket needs replacing.

There are 4 studs in the manifold and 4 corresponding nuts holding the turbo charger on. The manifold - turbo charger pair are on the vehicle and one of the manifold bolts is shielded by the turbo charger. I believe the turbo charger must be removed first.

One of the 4 nuts is accessible with either a box end or crows foot, the second nut is accessible by a box end. The other 2 nuts are only accessible with an open end wrench. I am concerned if I try to loosen those last 2 with an open wrench I will round the corners of the nuts and then be really stuck.

Are there intermediate wrench types that are half way between a box end and an open end? It would have to slid on via 2 sides and then rotate to 'lock'.

I haven't tried heat. Will simply starting the engine and waiting for the manifold to get to 500 degrees or help? Or is this method band and I need to try direct heat on the nuts as best as I can?

What have I missed? I can't be the first one to run into something like this. After braking things for decades I have learned to slow down. However at this point I am well and truly stuck. (although I haven't made is worse yet.) Thanks in advance - Dan
 
A flare nut wrench like we use on brake lines?I would soak with penetrating oil for a couple of days. Kriol oil works well. Then use heat on the nut. Be careful not to twist off the stud. Worst comes to worst use a die grinder with a small cut off wheel and split the nut.
 
Do you have enough room to get an adjustable (Crescent) wrench on the bolts? Less chance of rounding as you can snug it up for a better fit than an open end wrench.
 
Fasteners that have been high heat cycled, like on a turbo, are difficult to remove in the best scenario.

I'd soak a few times (and let them sit) in a good solution. I'm a big fan of a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Search YouTube if you want to see some "experiments".

This is one of those times when a high quality wrench will do a better job than a cheap one. In general the more expensive ones tend to be stronger and made to a tighter tolerance, and fit the nut better. Torque Test Channel and Project Farm have both done comparisons on open end wrenches. You don't have many chances to get it right, and buying an expensive wrench might be worth it.
 
A Crescent wrench would be my last choice. In my experience, the jaws will spread when the wrench is torqued. I have one wrench that has a camming lever to tighten the jaws once you fit it but even it will spread out and round the nut. Depending on the nut size, you might look at using a metric instead of SAE or vice versa. You could take a slightly undersized wrench and grind the jaws for a tight fit. The flare nut wrench would be a step up from an open end wrench if you have enough room to get it in the space. Tekton makes 6 pt. flare nut crowsfoot wrenches.https://www.tekton.com/individual-3-8-inch-drive-flare-nut-crowfoot-wrenches
 
Check with the dealer of a forum for the specific model.

Others have already done this, state exactly what you have.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
Try the remove at temperature maneuver, when I had a cracked manifold at sea the guy told me to unbolt it at temperature, or it will be difficult.
 
I'm going to take it that the nut is seized/rusted on. So use Kroil, the ATF/Acetone mix; whatever flavor you like. Use foil and whatever will stick the the surface and build a dam around the nut. Dose it really good; submerge the nut if possible. Your dam will probably leak so make provisions to catch the dripping. Give it about a week of soak.
Now, using the best fitting open end wrench you can get apply torque. Do not strain until the nut rounds off; rather get it to budge then apply torque in the opposite direction. Counter-clockwise, then clockwise. Repeat this.
Good luck.
 
For heavily corroded or rusted fasteners, I like to heat up the offending hardware and quickly soak the area with your favorite penetrate oil.
Heat it up again being careful not to burn the penetrate or catch fire
Remove the fastener as soon as possible after heating
 
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