Small Mods To My Hf 4x6 Bandsaw

[projectnut]

Even the manufacturers call it hydraulic downfeed.

Some may, but those marketed to the professional shops use terms like "hydraulic controlled down feed" and "hydraulic adjustment" for models that use a dampening cylinder. This differentiates them from the automated saws that actually use a hydraulic down feed

 

[Cabbage Stack]

Here's the part numbers for the air cylinder and flow control valve purchased from Zorro industrial online. They had they best prices I could find:

Air Cylinder, 10.6 In. L, Stainless Steel $19.94 /ea

by PARKER

Technical Specifications
Zoro #: G6085037 | Mfr #: 1.06DXPSR06.0



Valve, Flow Control $18.93 /ea



I used two grease gun hoses from Ace hardware.
Lubrimatic 3000 PSI 12 "
1/8 " NPT Each...
Quick View
$7.49

The accordion dust boot is: Neoprene Multi-Convoluted Rubber Bellow 130mm x 35mm Connector 7mm (BT-1126) purchased from the rubberstore.com a bit pricey at $15.99

Everything else is either brass fittings or fabricated.








View attachment 106298

What I'm not getting: what type of fitting is on the right side in the above attachment/picture with the yellow paint on the end ?? What does it do (besides being an elbow) ??

I was able to find:
Ebay
NEW PARKER 1.06DPSR06.00 1-1/16" Bore Round Double Acting Air Cylinder 6" Stroke (1/8th NPT) $31.65 + $5.00 ship + $3.00 TAX
NEW PARKER F200B FLOW CONTROL (1/8th NPT) $19.95 + $5.00 ship + $2.00 TAX

Thanks Roy!

 

[hman]

Cabbage Stack - That looks like a tee, used as an elbow by plugging the unused port. The yellow stuff appears to be yellow teflon tape (generally used for gas lines). My best guess is that royesses used whatever fittings he had on hand. I've done this countless times myself!

A plain elbow would certainly be a valid substitute.

 

[Cabbage Stack]

Cabbage Stack - That looks like a tee, used as an elbow by plugging the unused port. The yellow stuff appears to be yellow teflon tape (generally used for gas lines). My best guess is that royesses used whatever fittings he had on hand. I've done this countless times myself!

A plain elbow would certainly be a valid substitute.

OK, Thanks! I thought that could be the case but wanted to ask. I have most of what Roy put together and will be starting on it when I get the bigger iron castings powder coated. (Refurbishing 1985 Central Machinery Taiwanese-made 4x6 band saw) There is certainly some very helpful tricks & modifications for the 4x6 band saw on this site ! Thanks for you reply.

 

[royesses]

Hi Guys
The yellow paint is Teflon gas line tape. It is sealing a plug on the filler port. That is how the system is filled.
I have made some modifications to the system since this thread was posted. I added a reservoir tank and a hold valve. The tank does not make much difference in the operation. I made it from 18 gauge sheet metal. The hold valve works super. When making repeated cuts of the same material it allows me to set the feed rate for the first cut and not need to set it again for the next cuts. Just cut the first piece and then raise the saw, turn the handle up to hold move the work piece or replace it, then turn on the power and release the hold valve.
The valve comes from Amazon, here is a link:

DERNORD 1/8 inch Stainless Mini Ball Valve NPT Female x Male Thread SUS304: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

DERNORD 1/8 inch Stainless Mini Ball Valve NPT Female x Male Thread SUS304: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

The valve is a bit expensive, but it is a work of art. It is smooth as silk and will not leak. Polished stainless steel.
I also drained half the jack oil from the system and replaced that amount with motorcycle mineral fork oil 30 weight. That slowed the feed rate down and gave me a lot more range of control of the feed rate.

If anyone wants to try a different cylinder Bimba makes what appears to be an exact copy of the cylinder made for hydraulic applications.
BIMBA HLSR-096-DPW -Hydraulic Cylinder.

Also since there is a 5/16" actuating rod in the cylinder the volume of the cylinder in the retracted position is less than in the extended position. This causes the system pressure to go up when lifting the saw head up. The hoses and metal parts must expand to allow the extra fluid room. This makes lifting the saw head harder. I am planning on making an accumulator cylinder with spring loaded piston to take up the difference in oil volume .

Roy

 

[hman]

Fill port! Sorry I mischaracterized your use of the tee. It looks like a great design overall, and well thought out.

 

[royesses]

Fill port! Sorry I mischaracterized your use of the tee. It looks like a great design overall, and well thought out.

No need to be sorry. I took that as you helping out to explain it. I should have made that clear in the original post. Thanx for the compliment hman.

Roy

 

[MrWhoopee]

Some extremely nice work there royesses. I continue to be amazed at the elegance of the modifications various people have made to these saws. I have made a few of my own, though generally much simpler than many. Mine cost me around $220 with 20% coupon. It makes me wonder how much money and time has been invested into upgrades to these "cheap little" saws.

 

[royesses]

Some extremely nice work there royesses. I continue to be amazed at the elegance of the modifications various people have made to these saws. I have made a few of my own, though generally much simpler than many. Mine cost me around $220 with 20% coupon. It makes me wonder how much money and time has been invested into upgrades to these "cheap little" saws.

Thank you for the kind words. I paid $150 for the saw on sale plus 25% off. I have about $150 in modifications in it. While it is still a cheap 4x6 it does what I need. I have a lot of hours into modifying it so if you add the labor cost into it the saw is expensive for what you get. I could have purchased a cheap 5x7 and had a more capable saw. Kind of like why buy a tool for $10 when I can make it for $100. I agree that the shear number of mods made by owners is incredible. It is fun to modify a cheap tool to work better and that is why as a hobbyist I do it.

Roy

 

[Cabbage Stack]

Thank you for the kind words. I paid $150 for the saw on sale plus 25% off. I have about $150 in modifications in it. While it is still a cheap 4x6 it does what I need. I have a lot of hours into modifying it so if you add the labor cost into it the saw is expensive for what you get. I could have purchased a cheap 5x7 and had a more capable saw. Kind of like why buy a tool for $10 when I can make it for $100. I agree that the shear number of mods made by owners is incredible. It is fun to modify a cheap tool to work better and that is why as a hobbyist I do it.

Roy

Great Ideas Roy! Thank you!

I know what you mean by "Kind of like why buy a tool for $10 when I can make it for $100". I suppose I could have bought a better saw, but this one is after all, a 1984 Taiwanese-made Central Machinery 4x6 which I'm refurbishing (which doesn't seem to have a great deal of wear, not all scuffed-up banged-up and so forth) It is fun to modify a cheap tool to work better -- sometimes I buy vintage ones like drill press and so forth, and refurbish them which my wife thinks is eccentric.