Spinning knob handle for knee movement

Sounds like I should just put some lacquer on it to solve my problem- thanks for the suggestions all! Though I do still think that a handle with a freely rotating knob would be a cool upgrade!
Here is the cool upgrade...
SAM_1644.JPG SAM_1645.JPG SAM_1646.JPG
Get a 5/8" eight point socket, make a 1/2' hex to 1/2" square adapter (or buy a cheap one from HF), buy a cheap HF 1/2" drill (under $25), and install a 8mm eye bolt in the drill to park the drill with. There are side handle threaded holes on both sides of the drill. I no longer crank the knee more than an inch, often much less than that, aside from Z axis cutting. Works well.
 
  1. Is there any particular reason that a spinny knob crank handle wouldn't work for a knee? It does take a little effort to move the knee up, so perhaps that would be too much torque?
No reason at all. First thing I did when I got my new Bridgeport clone was to fit a regular spinny knob handwheel - it's way faster to crank, and even for a little old wimp like me, not particularly difficult to turn - I just use both hands if I want to move upward a long ways:

handwheel01.jpg
 
Here is the cool upgrade...
View attachment 230124 View attachment 230125 View attachment 230126
Get a 5/8" eight point socket, make a 1/2' hex to 1/2" square adapter (or buy a cheap one from HF), buy a cheap HF 1/2" drill (under $25), and install a 8mm eye bolt in the drill to park the drill with. There are side handle threaded holes on both sides of the drill. I no longer crank the knee more than an inch, often much less than that, aside from Z axis cutting. Works well.
Plan on making one of these tomorrow.
 
That example is a revolving knob, although the photo doesn't look like it. Here's a different one from the same supplier (they have many different sizes listed) that has a little better photo.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/77414431

You can see in the photo that there are flats for a wrench to tighten it into the rim of your handwheel. If yours is not threaded, it may have a plain shank that is pressed into the rim of the handwheel. If the shank of the knob on yours is pressed in, you may have to drill the hole in the rim to a proper size and tap it for the threads on the new knob. Like I said, there are MANY different sizes and thread combinations for these knobs. Browse through the list of available sizes and see what will work for you.

Ted
 
Ah, thanks Ted. That makes way more sense. Speaking of them being pressed into handwheels, are they often pressed into a blind hole? If so- then would one use something like jacobs chuck wedges to get the parts apart?
 
On eBay I'm sure it's supra machine that has them for about $15.00 delivered. Even cheaper if you buy several . I plan on ordering some But not till I'm done with the pain crap keeping me in bed. Bulging discs really hurt.
 
Ah, thanks Ted. That makes way more sense. Speaking of them being pressed into handwheels, are they often pressed into a blind hole? If so- then would one use something like jacobs chuck wedges to get the parts apart?
Most of the time they are broken off. So the wedges don't really help any. What I generally do, but not always, is go on the back side of the hole and drill a smaller hole to access the dutchman, so that way if you miss it a little you haven't done any damage to the old hole. Then take a punch and drive out the old handle or dutchman. Then you have a fresh hole to drive in a new handle. Ken
 
The knee crank that came with my Millrite had been broken at one time. The end was either just welded back on or a new one made? I have no idea if it ever turned or not but it does leave your hands BLACK!
Silverbullet I understand about the back! 3 back surgeries and a double fusion later they decided I needed a neurostimulator for the permanent sciatic damage! It all did do some good but like today I spent the morning moving heavy stuff around so this afternoon I'm in my chair. Don't let it get you down! The only thing you can do is continue to live your life.
George
 
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