Steady Rest Bearings?

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ridgeway

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I used my steady rest for the first time. My lathe was picked up second hand so the steady rest was already equipped with bearings. The bearings are USA, but two of them heated up to the point I had to stop. I made a cat head to run in the steady so I could finely dial in a rifle barrel to fit a radial muzzle brake on it. The barrel is way too short to do through the head stock. I had a heck of a time dialing in the barrel and I believe it is due to the bearings on the steady rest and overall, not a rigid set up. I was able to get within two tenths concentric to the bore and the OD after the threads were cut. It took me awhile though...as soon as I put pressure on a set screw, my Interapid moved quite a bit, but did spring back. Definitely not as precise as dialing at the headstock. This normal with a steady rest setup?

My main question is, should I replace the bearings on my steady rest with the same cam follower bearings? Or should I fit a small high precision bearing?

Here is my set up and by all means, if you have a tip or a concern with how its set up, let me know. I'm all ears in making a better setup. Pre '82 copper pennies are between the barrel and cap head. I later swapped them out with brass tipped cap heads, which seemed to help dial it in a bit...

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I was able to get it finished and turned out better than expected considering how much I had to fight with it to make as precise as possible. One disappointing thing was the thread fit on brake...looser than I wanted. My major diameter is within 2A spec and another brake I have on hand fits much better. I think I got one that was not withing tolerance from MFG.

Anyhow, here is my out come. The envelope was to keep swarf from the rollers...

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I'm no gunsmith but the cathead I use is longer and has 4 screws on each end and seems to be a ridged setup. As far as the bearings maybe its time to replace them:dunno:
 
Unless that is NeverSieze I see on your ring, those bearings are run way too tightly. You will also find that a thin cathead will distort from true round when you tighten the screws, and make it impossible to get it to dial in. Your ring should be as thick as possible.

There is nothing wrong with using cam followers like that. As long as they stay axially parallel with the spindle, that is. I built a hydraulic steady using cam followers for a lathe about 30"swing once. It was self centering and very heavy. Worked like a charm. If they are loose, yes, replace them.
 
Fit each brake individually, turn your major diameter then thread to the fit that you want. Looks pretty good, your bolts are dangerously long, I would shorten them up.
 
If two out of three bearings are getting hot, that tells me that the hot ones might need replacement.
Most catheads have two sets of screws, one set on each end and would aid in stability and
hence precision. I have a steady rest that uses brazed on tips for bearing surfaces and it
works well for me. It needs a bit of oil of course. I would check the hot bearings and see how they
feel and also make sure they have lubrication. Heat is the result of friction. Both the turning speed and
the applied pressure will have a part to play in how much heat is generated. Things expand as they
heat up and that increases pressure and thus friction.....sort of a never ending spiral. I drop my
speed down a notch or so when using a steady rest or follower.
 
A thicker tube would help, also longer tube so the steady would run between 2 sets of 4 screws, I machine my barrels to major, thread to 80% and start checking the fit of the muzzle devise.....Did you dial in the bore or OD of the barrel, if you dialed in the OD and its not concentric with the bore you could have some problems with bullet strikes depending on how tight the muzzle brake bore is.....
 
piney, I agree, the beaeings need replaced...I will get the same one. Just wondering if they are sufficient.

Tony, I never gave thought to the thinner tube. I made it quicly out of scrap i had. The next one, I will make thick out of 4140. That is not never seize on the tube. The bearings were too tight. I rest them and moved the spider so the bearings rode on a new spot. I definitly need to do some work on the steady before I use it again.

ranch, yes they are long. I pulled the brass tipped screw from my spindle side spider just to finish this brake instal. I have brass to make shorter ones, just havent had time.

cathead, got ya.

powder, i did see that. nice setups for sure.

metalmole, the bore was dialed prior to cutting the tenon. I then dialed the OD for a seamless fit. Took off brake then dialed the brake in a 4 jaw to bore .020" over.

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Agreed most definitely,you need 2 sets of screws. Plus,that is a spyder. A cat head has a hole that is not bored through.
 
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