Tap holder design - lathe

I've got 2 different size Tapamatics but I only use em on the mill. I've never seen or heard of a Tapmatic or Procunier used on a lathe. I suppose it would be possible though if one really wanted to.
 
For power tapping I use a Procunier 2E tapping head. What's comforting is that the tap slips as a function of the downward pressure on the quill...a little slipping, just pull harder. I've never broken a tap, though I suppose it could happen. I only use spiral flute taps for this.
It's interesting you say you only use spiral flute taps in your Procunier tapping head. Spiral flute taps are great for blind holes because they force the swarf back up the hole. However spiral point taps are stronger and are better for through holes since they force the swarf out the hole ahead of the tap minimizing the amount that will be captured in the flute.
 
It's interesting you say you only use spiral flute taps in your Procunier tapping head. Spiral flute taps are great for blind holes because they force the swarf back up the hole. However spiral point taps are stronger and are better for through holes since they force the swarf out the hole ahead of the tap minimizing the amount that will be captured in the flute.

It's interesting you say you only use spiral flute taps in your Procunier tapping head.

That's a good point about spiral point taps for through holes. I have a full set of them as well. The main reason for spiral flute in the tapping head is that the tapping head has a unique collet for each tap, so I keep a full set of collets loaded with spiral flute taps. The tapping head has a Kwik Switch adapter always attached, so it's pretty quick to set up to tap even a single hole. The spiral flutes just work so well in the tapping head there has not been a reason to go away from them.
 
Sometimes slippage is your friend when tapping, versus breaking the taps.
This, all day.

I only lightly (tightly lightly) chuck up the tap with most of the shank in the chuck and let it spin to indicate binding or hitting bottom.

Let the tailstock float and walk it’s way in with the tap, then light pressure backwards when it’s backing out.
 
This is where Bilz/Emudge clutched tap collets are useful. With aluminum, I like the tapmatic, but for stainless, the clutched collets allow you to fine tune the process to provide a little more torque in the gummy metal.
 
This, all day.

I only lightly (tightly lightly) chuck up the tap with most of the shank in the chuck and let it spin to indicate binding or hitting bottom.

Let the tailstock float and walk it’s way in with the tap, then light pressure backwards when it’s backing out.
I also lock the tailstock and "hammer" in the mt2 with a few taps or it will spin out

Tried the a-bombs locked holder last night and it was too nerve racking - back to slippage and hand tap last few threads!
 
I've never seen or heard of a Tapmatic or Procunier used on a lathe.
Ah, good point, neither have I. Disregard everything I ever said, I missed this was lathe related.

But, regarding tapping in lathes, I recommend the Hemingway tailstock die holder, used as a tap holder...wow, that takes care of most all worries about breaking taps. There is a clutch the operator controls with a lever. It's very delicate yet transfers as much available torque as you ask for, but slips when it needs more than you have asked for.

While they call it a die holder, which it is, it's simple to make it into a tap holder as well.
 
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