Taper Using Compound

Rodney, wow, I was thinking of grinding something for the flange but you got the entire profile. I've purchased wheels from Gary in the past (there are two Gary's in California (Gary Watkins is one) and I get them confused). Both sell your gauge and mine. I so far just do straight wheels but he does steel wheels in curly spoke, which the machining is a bit beyond my basic knowledge, although I did carve a blank once in wood and cast some in a solder/lead mix poured in an RTV mold.

One of the reason I working so hard on learning how to use a CAM program is I want to make some drivers for several loco's on my converted CNC mill.
I made a set of 8 of these, plus this extra one on a RT for a live steam shay (20.3, 3 foot narrow gauge) that I've been working on a few years.


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Let's see some more pics, in process or finished models.

I don't know if you were asking me and really don't want to hijack the thread but here is a few railroad stuff I've made.

This is a 30 degree crossing I made that is for live steam or battery only. Frogs aren't insulated.


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This one is a custom crossing I made for a gent that has insulated frogs.


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Here is a 20.3 standard gauge Challenger frame I built. The drivers and front truck were sent to me and I did the rest for a good friend of mine. He has it now and is working on getting it finished up soon. That is a K 27 in the back for size comparison.



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Here is a start of a DRGW, 3 foot narrow gauge 10 wheeler.


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Rodney

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wow, that's amazing. Keep ideas coming! BTW, I used to make wheels using resin casting and RTV but I really love the extra weight the wheels and axis have in lowering center of gravity on cars as they go over fallen leaves and big bugs on the tracks (prevents derailing)
 
I model in 20.3 scale and this is the tool I use to make my wheel contours. It is ground close to the the contour that Gary at Sierra Valley uses on his wheel sets. It doesn't look like it has a taper, but it does and the wheels track very well.
Rodney

Was this tool ground or WEDM? Looks good.
 
Yes, it was done on a WEDM.

Rodney
As I had suspected, you can grind the top flat for sharpening and not lose any of the geometry, nice.
In the past, (and present as there are still active mechanical screw machine shops) form tools for screw machines would have the profile ground in the round and then notched for a cutting edge, a simple and elegant solution in my opinion, it makes for some rather large tooling however.
Like so http://www.sommatool.com/images/tlcf.jpg
 
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