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The Little Jet Lathe That Just Might Could

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Ulma Doctor

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#31
sorry to hear you folks are having troubles. i hope everybody feels better soon.

all the best,
mike:)
 

Bamban

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#32
Finally got well enough to restart the work on the Baby Jet. The lathe is not not torqued down to the stand yet, still doing a few things before I do that. Next order of business is to replace the the stock motor with a 2 HP Marathon Black Max.

Doing some sweeping with the DTS, the lathe is every bit in good shape as Mike Mike descrIves it, if not better. Now discernable wear on the V ways. I took the level to both extremes of the ways and compared the reading in the middle and in the general area where most lathes are used, no significant between all readings.

The only things I need to replace or repair is the right side gear change lever. The outer barrel that to release and engage the gear is missing. I will most likely machine 2 units for symmetry. The TS crank is busted, the indicator dial is missing. I am not sure if the crank is one piece or 2 pieces pressed together. Their may be of a challenge. I will take the "buy" option if I can find one.

Mark started on the VFD system, to give him some ideas on how long to make the interconnect cables, I mocked the installations of the different boxes.

The orange boxes on top a vertical post is the HS control control box, the other one below the stand top plate is the Directional control box .

The VFD is on the top right side back splash. It will be mounted in free air, I just need to mount it to a metal angle iron that will provide some top sheld over the fan

The external 12V supply is shown behind
the VFD, final configuration, the power supply will move closer to the pump side and the Logic control Box will be installed between them. The Logic. Control Box right up next to the VFD wil be
,

See the progress in pictures
 

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kvt

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#33
Glad you are feeling better. That looks good, No pics on mine yet, But finished up a bunch on the table this morning. Then got it set on the table, Not as far along as yours, but still on the table.
Wife is out of hospital, ruptured Appendix, One doctor said it looked like she had swallowed a fire cracker that lodged in her appendix before exploding.
So I am still pretty far behind where we thought I should be by this time. I'm hoping to post something and be working by next weekend.
Also found I had lost 2 knobs on the way home, and a few other things vibrated lose. But still in good shape.
 

Ulma Doctor

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#34
Hi nez,
i'm happy that you are happy with the 1024P
the stand looks great- how did you come about it?

as far as the TS handwheel-on my shenwai, the handwheel is an aluminum casting, one piece -bored,keyed.
 

Bamban

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#35
The stand used to have a sheetmetal top, had it replaced with a 1/2 inch steel plate and had the wheels added and I added the hockey puck adjusters.

This one appears to be one piece or pressed together 2 pieces, the dial ring is not there either, but may not even worry about the dials, a DRO is easy to install. The wheel is another story, have to figure out a way to remediate it.

It's coming along, cleaning from the TS side working towards the HS. Slowly, to the limits of my bad shoulder can take.


20160730_182043.jpg
 

kvt

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#36
nez, Is that the same back splash, or is it the angle, It looks higher than it use to be. for some reason.
 

pebbleworm

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#38
I am drawing a blank on what an "AO" is... Otherwise a neat little machine and a darn nice crate!
 

Tony Wells

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#40
I had the 36" variant of that lathe a few years ago. The only thing I didn't like about it was an easy fix. The thread dial is tucked in a bit close, so a simple spacer block was made. I moved it out 3/4". Decent lathe. Yours looks very good.
 

Bamban

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#41
I had the 36" variant of that lathe a few years ago. The only thing I didn't like about it was an easy fix. The thread dial is tucked in a bit close, so a simple spacer block was made. I moved it out 3/4". Decent lathe. Yours looks very good.
Tony,

Thank you. May I borrow your idea to move the thread dial away from the apron, 3/4 as you said should be enough.


Nez
 

Tony Wells

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#42
It was simply a flat aluminum piece milled to the same profile as the thread dial housing. A single bolt holds it on. Very straightforward. I never painted it, but after a while I never even noticed it was there. Sure made me less nervous about threading though.

I didn't want to lose any -Z- axis travel, or as little as possible, so I added only a minimum. That's the first thing to hit the outboard bearing support as you travel right.
 

Bamban

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#43
20160731_021026.jpg 20160731_021145.jpg 20160731_021105.jpg Got the stock motor out. In comparison to the Black Max motor, the new replacement, diameter wise and length wise all looks good. The electrical motor connection protective cover of the Black Max motor needs to be modified before I can install the motor.

Pictures attached.
 

kvt

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#44
I thought you were going to mount it underneath, The black max also looks to be a bit bigger around from the pics. Is that going to pose a problem as I know the motors are pretty tight where mounted.
 

Bamban

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#45
The diameter is not the problem, this machine is framed out differently from yours. The problem is the motor cable connecting housing, it hits the vertical frame of the pulleys the motor drives. I think, I say, I think, because it was rather late last night when I quit that I may miss something, that it is remove the little box and fab a cover for it and swing the motor cables towards the back into abother box, it just might work. Another option is to route the motor cables like the one in yours with protective cover on the cable entry into the housing.

I will try to mock the placement in the cubby hole the motor goes it, but will have to wait for one of my buddies to come over. After injuring my left shoulder, coupled with already injured right, I am sort of worthless right now.
 

mksj

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#46
Interesting variant on the Blackmax motor, the newer ones have aluminum fining, the BlueMax is heavier like yours and all cast steel. The motor is a surprisingly close size and fit to the stock one for twice the Hp, but then the TENV motors tend to be shorter overall. The BlackMax motor diameter looks a little bigger which is expected. If a few fins need trimming a bit to fit, it wouldn't be an issue for such light duty. On the electrical box, if I recall you had a similar issue on your last baby lathe that was retrofitted with a WEG motor. So either mill a low profile box, or you could consider getting a low profile Hammond die cast box, bore a hole in the bottom for the motor wires and mount to the motor. Probably look a lot better than the stock electrical box and no warning stickers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hammond-Manufacturing-1590YBK-92-X-92-X-42MM-BLACK-ALUM-BOX-/390974034312

You might check with Jet on the Tailstock parts, I would dial scale and mount a DRO on the tailstock.
 

kvt

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#47
Ok, what did you do to our left shoulder. I will try to get some pics Have everything wired up except putting the plug on the end of the cable. Wired everything and figured safety wise just not put the plug on until everything was ready. Still have to do the leveling feet (hockey pucks) Then do the leveling of the lathe itself .

20160731_165311.jpg 20160731_165332.jpg
 

Bamban

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#48
Mark,

As always, we all welcome your thoughts and suggestions on projects in this forum. The hammond box might just be the better option, unless I can talk one of my buddies to run the mill for me and make a low profile box like I did for the previous lathe.

Here are a couple of pictures with BM motor in the hole, showing the belt system in run mode mode (belt tensioned) and the other in service mode.


20160731_163910.jpg 20160731_163921.jpg 20160731_163956.jpg 20160731_164006.jpg
 

Bamban

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#49
Ken,

Your lathe is looking good.

On the left shoulder, since my right one is in pain all the time, I began to rely a lot on the left, then I made a bad twisting action as I picked up a metal plate and sharp pain shot to the top of the shoulder. Getting old is not for sissies. We may get wiser with old age, but sometimes we forget we are not young any longer and do some dumb stuff. Just another inconvenience.
 

Bamban

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#50
Well, got the low profile wiring cover almost done. Just screwed on one bolt to the existing hole, will have to drill and tap a new hole on the motor side, 1/4 x 20. Using the rubber seal that came with the motor the cover should seal well. Staring relief for the wiring will be a screwed on to the Delrin block. Will use the existing terminal strip, but moved it on the upper side of the vertical piece to give more range on wiring.

To finish the motor install I still have the drill new holes through the motor base and the mounting plate, the old holes do not line up well when I position the motor to fit and motor pulley aligned to the driven pulley. Instead of dual pulley I will just use a smaller one and as Mark suggested I will just drive the VFD at higher Frequency. The motor is an overkill for this Baby Jet, but can't have enough HP sometimes. Most likely belt will slip before the motor bogs down.

20160731_222118.jpg 20160731_222301.jpg 20160731_224459.jpg 20160731_224522.jpg
 
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Bamban

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#51
Made small progress today. Milled off the QCTP T plate to fit the compound and installed the QCTP. Bolted the motor to the mounting plate. That was rather a pain, a shooting buddy did a great job in manhandling that 96 pound gorilla of a motor. Cleaned the 3J that came with the lathe.

Once I got the 3J all cleaned up and out together, I installed my Pacific Tool And Gauge Test Bar and swept it. Looking good. I will add the video once I get it on you tube.


20160801_193034.jpg 20160801_193045.jpg 20160801_193128.jpg 20160801_193143.jpg 20160801_194416.jpg 20160801_210315.jpg



 
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Bamban

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#52
20160801_231007.jpg

Have y'all seen a chuck with this brand. This what came with Baby Jet 1024.
 
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Bamban

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#53
It has been awhile since I updated the thread. Progress has been slow, but we're getting there. I did not take the lathe down to component level, most of the works is limited to scrubbing the old crud off. The Baby Jet cleaned up nicely.

20160827_221652.jpg
20160827_222504.jpg

The lathe is getting the whole enchilada with the VFD, including a proximity sensor.. The wiring and control box was designed and built by Mark. Thanks, bud, appreciate all the help. The lathe being so short, if I were to use a front spider, the proximity sensor and it associated hardware just would not fit between the headstock and the carriage. Mark is redesigning the mounting block. Y'all will like it when you the innovative design. In the meantime, I worked on the VFD system in between doing barrel work on the ACER.

The bottom unistrut houses the incoming power and the wiring from the VFD to the motor. The other unistruts is where the signal cables are routed through.


20160825_161731.jpg 20160825_161741.jpg 20160826_141700.jpg 20160827_011031.jpg 20160827_220940.jpg 20160827_220948.jpg 20160827_220958.jpg



Next steps:
Mount the directional control box to the front unistrut that is mounted horizontally between the legs.
Mount the proximity sensor ,
Terminate the wiring
Program the VFD
Drill and tap the chuck back palte for set screw to help prevent the chuck from unscrewing itself


20160827_221343.jpg
20160827_221406.jpg
20160827_103148.jpg
 
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Bamban

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#54
Finally managed to finish the wiring on the Baby Jet 1024. All checked well.

Many Thanks to Mark J and Mike W for all their help on this project. I think this little lathe will serve me well for the years to come.


 

Bamban

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#55
Last and final update.

Leveled the stand and shimmed the bed feet the best I could. Not perfect, but it should work for now, there is no discernable bed twist. Made a pass on my aluminum test piece to see how the taper is across the 8 inch long aluminum. Pretty for government work. Pictures tell the tale.

Shimming the bed feet was George Wilson's advise. Thanks, George.

I believe this little green lathe could produce some nice projects. It will be dedicated lathe for chambering AR15 aervice rifle competition barrels .

Thanks to Mark J and Mike W for all their help.

20160902_185655.jpg 20160902_185720.jpg
 

duanedr

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#56
I have the same lathe and while I'm certainly not an expert , it definitely punches above it's weight. The VFD motor upgrade is coming although it might happen on my mill first. Would love your plans/parts list if you have them. Great buy and enjoy!
 

Bamban

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#57
The parts for the control boxes were provided by our own, MKSJ. Not only he provided the parts, he wired the logic control box, the directional control, and the spindle speed control box. Mark might chime in with wiring diagram and parts list.

I sourced the 2 HP 3P motor, it is a Marathon Black Max.

All I had to do was lay out the wiring and integrate the boxes.
 

DAT510

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#58
Great Thread. I too am the happy owner of a Jet-1024 Lathe. I like your VFD upgrade. I may have to consider that in the future.

I couldn't tell from the picts if you ever got the TS handle and indicator dial you needed. Grizzly's G9249 is, as far as I've been able to tell, identical to the Jet-1024, with the exception its a 12x37. I was missing some of the threading gears on my lathe and ordered a set from Grizzly and they fit perfectly.

Though Grizzly doesn't see the lathe any more. They still sell parts for it. Here's a link. http://www.grizzly.com/products/g9249/parts

Chris
 

Bamban

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#59
Great Thread. I too am the happy owner of a Jet-1024 Lathe. I like your VFD upgrade. I may have to consider that in the future.

I couldn't tell from the picts if you ever got the TS handle and indicator dial you needed. Grizzly's G9249 is, as far as I've been able to tell, identical to the Jet-1024, with the exception its a 12x37. I was missing some of the threading gears on my lathe and ordered a set from Grizzly and they fit perfectly.

Though Grizzly doesn't see the lathe any more. They still sell parts for it. Here's a link. http://www.grizzly.com/products/g9249/parts

Chris
Chris,

Thank you for the tip, that will be handy in the future.

I bought a crank from the UK, and it has a dial in Imperial. It came in with 10mm inner bore, bored it out to 12 to fit the TS.

A friend of mine built a wood try for my tool holders, it is indeed quite handy.

Next upgrade would be the newly designed Proximity sensor from Mark. Over the winter I will remove the pulley system and remount the motor to where it will connect directly to the spindle pulleys. The new mount would havebits legs welded to the base top plate and actual motor plate wpuld be elevated at the same height as the current pulley that drives the spindle pulley.

So far I chambered close to a dozen AR barrels on this little jewel. 20161127_225653.jpg 20161127_225716.jpg 20161127_230331.jpg 20161127_230346.jpg
 

Subwayrocket

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#60
Nice little lathe . Never see anything good up here in northeast PA ...tired iron for top dollar :apologize:
 
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