The Reclamation of Nelson's Heavy 10L

[ChuckB]

Chuck,

You have some points. By the way, what type of paint are you talking about?

If I were repainting, I would use the B-M color that is on a sticky in this forum- it comes close to the original.

As per what Walter said, I am going to put all the screws and other handware together and try to ID it first, so I don't go too far off.

Thanks,

Nelson

It is Gray POR-15 rust paint topped with a two part Dark Gray POR-15 Hardnose Paint. Hard as a rock! Very expensive, it's gonna cost about 180.00, but I figure with all the work involved, I don't want nothing thats gonna peel, chip or scratch. You need an air pump system if you are going to spray it. I didn't when I painted this and was real sick for two days. I can still feel the affects a week later. You can also brush paint it, which is much safer.

http://www.por15.com/



More: http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad106/doorguru/SB Heavy 10/Restore/?albumview=slideshow

 

[Starlight Tools]

Nelson, not sure where my reply went, but I had thought I sent one the other day when we were discussing this.

If the gash is along the length of the key, from side hammer, then best to replace the key, It is a cheap part.

If the gash is just a hit from your screwdriver or punch or even a set screw mark, then scrape, stone or file off the high spots and you are ready to roll.

As for the pressing device, yup a chunk of redi rod and a couple of heavy washers will do just fine. I use a 3-1/4" diam holesaw and cut out blanks from 1/4" plate to make the washers for hockey puck feet, but in your case any block of steel, at least 1/4" thick, maybe even 1/2 with a hole in it so that the plate will cover the end of the spindle and the end of the gear and pull the pieces together with a couple of nuts. Sorry I can't be there to help you so you will have to find another nut besides me. LOL

Walter

Walter:

The key has one gash. I will stone it down. I have allthread that I bought just for this, but I don't have large enough diameter washers that won't pass through the spindle, so I thought I would cut a couple square pieces of steel, put a hole in each, and use them as the "stops".

Sound reasonable?

Thanks,

Nelson

 

[MICK1958]

Not a bad looking machine! If I were looking for a southbend machine I would be quite envious of the camlock spindle you have, not to worry about your bumps and bruises you inflicted on the machine.... that is all part of the learning process. and everytime you make another repair/adjustment You will become that much better!

Something I heard a long time ago that means more to me each time I think about it.....

" a man's reach should extend far beyond his grasp " I interpet that as always strive to improve.

Thank You for sharing

Mick

 

[HSS]

Aw man, Turbo, Dorothy put the stuffing back into the scarecrow. You need to watch the Wizard again. Lol

Pat

 

[HMF]

I have the Steve Brooks rebuild manual, but am otherwise pretty clueless.

The restoration of the 10L has to wait for me to get the darned Van Norman #12 down into the basement. I got the mill's 800# base apart into two pieces, and will be moving it down shortly, I hope. Then I can start on the 10L and then the Van Norman restoration in place.

I will need LOTS of help- I took it apart a few years back and don't even remember where things go. I will need to replace shims, and stone down the spindle, etc., reinstall the undermount drive and such.

Work,work, work.... ;D


Regards,

Nelson