The Vn High Speed Quill Head

Jeff Sauer

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I've gotten a few questions from members about my high speed quill head for the VN #12 and #16 machines. Mine seems to be more complete and in better shape than some others, and I've been asked to provide a few photos. Rather than continue those private conversations, I thought I'd post them where everyone can view them.

Ron asked about the threaded nose. My unit has the standard VN type "C" spindle nose, but the collet is retained with a threaded cap as shown in the photos.
DSCN2892.JPG DSCN2899.JPG DSCN2894.JPG

At the rear, there is no room for a draw-bar with the quill feed handle in place, so I guess VN's solution was the threaded cap.
DSCN2896.JPG

The drive "pin" looks like a standard collet at the back and has a single key slot and smooth shaft to fit into the accessory head.
DSCN2897.JPG

Jeff
 
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Nice, I am kind of looking for one. Haven't tried real hard.

Jason
 
IMG_7013.JPG IMG_7016.JPG IMG_7019.JPG Here are some photos of my VN UHS disassembly. the first two are of the spindle with the stuck mandrel; rusted in tight. removed with bearing splitter and wedges.

IMG_7013.JPG IMG_7016.JPG
spindle componentsIMG_7019.JPG
the worn brass coated steel thrust washerIMG_7024.JPG

Lots of old greaseIMG_7073.JPG IMG_7075.JPG IMG_7078.JPG
the multiple variations of flange bolts that hold the transmission section to the cutterhead mount. the two longest are metric 1.5, the rest are 3/8-16. IMG_7080.JPG IMG_7013.JPG IMG_7016.JPG IMG_7019.JPG IMG_7024.JPG IMG_7073.JPG IMG_7075.JPG IMG_7078.JPG IMG_7080.JPG IMG_7013.JPG

separated at lastIMG_7016.JPG

There is only one grease fitting on the transmission, which would feed the transmission bearings and ring gear. Not sure how grease would then make it across all the distance to find its way into the spindle bearings.IMG_7019.JPG IMG_7024.JPG IMG_7073.JPG IMG_7075.JPG IMG_7078.JPG IMG_7080.JPG

an overview of all parts so far. transmission is on the right.

the original spindle carriage cover was misdrilled, and broke through the casting, upper right hole of the leftmost cover. the SHCS that goes in that hole had the threads ground off so the threads would not protrude and impact the spindle carriage, the cylinder-like part in center of left grouping.

Note that the small bevel gear is pointing the opposite direction. the bevel should be to the left, so the threaded portion will be outside. when the spindle is adjusted, the bevel gear slides on the spindle shaft, and it seems that the lock ring puts preload on the front spindle bearing, and holds the gear in position to mate with the transmission gear. This is my theory.IMG_7084.JPG

buried in the crud in what I though might be an oil passage connecting the transmission to the spindle mount, two set screws- Purpose unknown at this point.

having a drawing would be nice.
IMG_7089.JPG
 
Ron:
You seem to be well into it now!

I've attached a sketch of the nose cap. Everything on the inside and most of the outside looks like it could be done pretty easily with one setup in the lathe and then parted off at the bottom surface. Maybe the 4.5 inch radius surface would require some thought to set up properly. Let me know if you need anything else...

Jeff
 

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Jeff,

Thank you. Much better than my first sketch. I will try to see if my friend with a lathe can duplicate.

did you see the VN drawing I posted? Not remembering where I got it, but my thanks to the original sponsor.

As an update, I finally did break something. the key in the sliding pinon gear on the spindle was gouged and allowed backlash, so I thought I would just tap out that key and put in a new one. Unfortunately, being new to rebuilding machines, the two little fang marks on the body defied immediate explanation, and I proceeded to shear off the key from a round projection that had been staked. Expect to have to drill out the remnant without enlarging the hole
If these are not an industry standard part, then will have to make one. also same design used in the sliding sleeve that connects the power feed to the table, and have to make 2 for that application. Not having a lathe, I was thinking of using the mill and rotary table to make round projections on square parts. I can practice using some hot roll. Interesting grain pattern at the shear point. Not sure if it started that way, but the key has a ramp configuration, possible to accommodate the end of the key way on the spindle shaft.

IMG_7100.JPG IMG_7102.JPG IMG_7105.JPG IMG_7108.JPG IMG_7110.JPG
 
Finally found out the proper name for the key with the pin- it is a "peg end feather key". Have not yet found any supplier in the USA, so will try to make my own.
Ron
 
Where is the other sketch with the measurements?
I found the "nose cap" sketch.
Am hoping to find the rest of the "sketches".
This is a great help!!

Daryl
MN
 
Daryl,

What do you need measurements for? I never posted my guessitmate sketch, since the one from Jeff was superior. It turns out that there were at least 3 different nose caps or as I call them, spindle caps; one for the collet, one for the 7/8" mandrel and one for the 1" mandrel. The only difference is the opening.

I have cleaned my bearings, primed the head, and just because I have a small can, will color the UHS head Royal Blue. Trying to minimize expense and use up old inventory. I purchased a small parts washer, and used kerosene to rinse all the old goo out of the UHS head. Easy enough because all the muck went out around the shafts. Turns a lot looser now, and will refill with the SHC100.

Ron
 
Daryl,

Rereading my last post, perhaps better wording would be " what can I measure and make a sketch of for you?"

the key in the drive end is floppy loose, looking like it is another of the peg end feather keys, ready to shear off, but since the peg is covered, can not get to it. I would still like to figure out how to pull the drive end shaft to replace that key, so if anyone has ever taken apart a VN12 UHS and can share how to do so with breaking something, I would sure appreciate it.

Using my new rotary table to try to make peg end feather keys, have shown it is possible to make the peg, just have to get the setup accurate for the size peg I need. I started by assuming that the peg would be 3/16", but turns out my hole is closer to .2" so have to redo.

Royal blue is pretty. Much nicer than the beat up black paint that was slathered over everything.

Ron
 
I've got this crazy scheme to make the accessories for my own use.
Scheme? Nah, more of an obsession.
An obsession paused by a crazy work schedule that will last until next summer.
The pics will be helpful should I finally get around to it.
Did you happen to measure up the gears?


Daryl
MN
 
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