The when and why of flux core

Hukshawn said:
So I made some threaded bushings out of delrin. I decided I didn't need delrin plate, and that I could just make bushings. I'll drill a hole in the feed housing in the wall between the feed and electrical section and thread the bushing through.
I need longer bolts tho so I can use two nuts. One to hold the stud to the housing, the second to hold the cable and to give some extra distance between the male bushing and the housing. Don't need to be making any contact with the housing and blowing everything to smitherines...

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What's delrins heat rating? Just in case I wind up with an issue with heat?
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I like where you're going with this. I have no idea what Delrin can take as far as heat goes. Is it necessary to use copper studs for conductivity?
 
Hmmm. I have some copper bar, but I've never worked with copper. I hear it can be difficult cause it work hardens. Is brass any better?
 
As long as the steel bolt is just providing the clamping force and is not part of the current path you should be fine - i.e. you're connecting the two cable ring lugs directly together not one at each end of the bolt.
 
Hmm. I was going to leave the leads inside the electrical side and use them as a current bath, but I suppose the safer bet, without making copper studs, would be to bring them into the wire feed side and just use them for clamping...

Back to the sake of going the mile, maybe I'll try to thread and tap a copper nut and bolt. See what happens. I'd it doesn't work, then I'll just do clamping force.
 
Hukshawn said:
Hmmm. I have some copper bar, but I've never worked with copper. I hear it can be difficult cause it work hardens. Is brass any better?
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That I couldnt answer. I believe the connectors that Tweco and Lenco makes are brass.....brass bolts and nuts are available on line but they are very proud of them.
 
Proud of them? Sorry, I didn't understand that.
 
Brass should work just fine, but as already mentioned, can be expensive. It is a good conductor and resists corrosion better than copper. Work hardening is non-existent.

If you choose to make copper hardware and find that work hardening becomes an issue, heat the part up cherry red and quench in water to anneal it.

According to information I found on the web from various plastics suppliers, Delrin® has a melting point of 347° F and lists a 'maximum serving temperature for long term' of 185° F. It also lists an 'applicable temperature range for thermal expansion' of 85 to 140° F. Another reference lists its maximum working temperature at 248°F. My guess is that it should work just fine for your application. If you have trouble with it, you might want to look at using something like phenolic instead.
 
I got brass 2" 1/4-20 bolts and nuts from home Depot. Basically amounted to a buck each, with washers.

If I have a heat issue, then I have bigger issues than dealing with the delrin. My conductors would be underrated then.
But, I think this will work fine and will be a good addition to this welder - to have th flexibility to switch to flux core when needed. As a hobby welder (sometimes fabbing up some metal for table legs, etc, for carpentry work for my job (contractor)), I'm never just doing one type of welding only. Flexibility is an asset, and my bossman is happy to have this addition to our/my list of capabilities. He wants to have us get into building some furniture for clients when he can sell it. And I'm happy to ablige. He likes that I have a metal shop as well as the woodshop.wnd I like that he likes that. Excuses to stay home and build something AND get paid. Not something I can enjoy as a hobbiest. Lol.
 
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