Think I screwed up my taper

I

iron1951

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I have an Atlas 618 with a #1 MT in the tail stock. I was doing a half inch bore in a 1 inch dowel (mild steel) and after I got in about 1/4 to 1/2 inch the male taper rotated in the tailstock quill. Now the Morse taper won't grab properly. There looks like matching chatter marks on the male and female tapers. Can this be "touched up" or am I looking at new parts? Thanks
 
I'm no expert and have never done this but I understand that you will need to remove the raised burrs from the ID of your tailstock tapered bore. They make reamers for the MT bores but you might get by with a Dremel tool. A good smooth male taper and some bluing should tell you how bad it is. The burrs from the mating male part will need to be cleaned up also but that should be straight forward, clean and fit.

Benny
 
A reamer would be my first choice, but you could touch it up by hand. I always seat morse tapers firmly with a lead hammer and remember to extend the quill out past its ejection point so it will be completely seated. You can use a little chalk on the taper to keep it from slipping. It's not as bad as it might seem
 
correct I use blue carpenter snap line chalk with good results I have even chucked a drill and taped
fine sand paper to it and went in there use wet paper & spray carb cleaner just like honing brake
cylinders for this I find carb cleaner works better than wd.
 
GK1918 said:
I have even chucked a drill and taped
fine sand paper to it and went in there use wet paper & spray carb cleaner just like honing brake
cylinders.
Click to expand...
Good thinking 99

Cheers Phil
 
iron1951 said:
I have an Atlas 618 with a #1 MT in the tail stock. I was doing a half inch bore in a 1 inch dowel (mild steel) and after I got in about 1/4 to 1/2 inch the male taper rotated in the tailstock quill. Now the Morse taper won't grab properly. There looks like matching chatter marks on the male and female tapers. Can this be "touched up" or am I looking at new parts? Thanks
Click to expand...


This site sells them for $20.00. :


http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/Morse-Taper-Reamers/2549.html



That's the cheapest I've ever seen.
 
the chalk is a good tip i did this same thing to my mill when i first got it. not knowing if it was right or wrong i used the sticky 220 sandpaper wet on a good mt2 shank and took out the high spots, i didnt know anyone to ask about it so i just tried it, worked for me but was a guess
steve
 
A reamer is probably best. Trying to clean up the bore by hand with a Dremel or similar will leave more scratched areas that won't make contact with anything inserted into the bore. If the drill spun in the first place, the taper was probably already scratched up. A reamer would clean everything out giving you a fresh surface.

When using this kind of reamer go slow. Use plenty of cutting oil, anything meant for taps will work fine. Ream by hand and with draw frequently to clean chips off the reamer and out of the bore. If you let the chips build up, they will pack themselves into the bore causing more scratches or even breaking the reamer.

Hope this helps.

Sandro Di Filippo
 
What I did:
using a dremel tool and some blueing I removed the bur on the inside of the tail stock and I cleaned up the male part too. The taper feels a lot tighter but I have not tested it under load yet.

What I am going to do:
use a brass hammer to seat the taper next time I use it. Also I am going to make sure my tail stock taper is really clean. I never heard of the chalk trick but I am going to try it too. I am going to try and locate a reamer.

Thanks for the help, everyone.
 
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