Think I screwed up my taper

[Hotbluechips]

You can use a little chalk on the taper to keep it from slipping.

I have seen this work more times than i can count, on big lathes with big,3in. drills. Find someone with a reamer and borrow it. Would not recomend anything else

 

[Tony Wells]

I have a Green Weenie ( that don't sound good) for MT 1-2-3-4. I know you can get the 2-3-4 still but am not sure about the 1. These keep the tapers clean.

http://www.choice-woods.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1252

"Billy G" :thinking:

I think they have a shot for that these days, Bill.

 

[8ntsane]

Not a good thing to happen.
Thats a small M/T , Im assuming that the M/T had no tang on the end? Though they are not designed to be a driving tang, they can save your quill, if the M/T doesnt hold. Ether way, your in a spot now you must do somthing to fix the problem.

The first thing I would do, have a look in the quill with a good light. If the damage is minimal, then you could do a few things. Clean up the taper with a stone, and get all the hurt spots off it, if you have a spare, use that to check . Inside the barrel of the quill, you should be able to see the damaged spots. being yours is a small M/T , it could be hard to deal with comared to a larger one.

You can attach very fine grit sand paper to a M/T arbour, and with light pressure, turn it and keep a close eye on the bore, and the sand paper. The sand paper will show where the damaged area is..

If you go slow, and recheck the fit as you take the bad area down, you could get it fitting, and have it hold again. Yes , you could buy a reamer, and that would centainly work, but unless you have used one before, you could make matters worse.

If at all possible, locate the damaged stot, and work only with that. If inspection shows one spot, then work only on that spot. You dont want to get the quill sanded out of round either. Work with caution is in order.

If your quill can hold arbours with a tang on the end, by all means do so. Ive added tangs to arbour that didnt have them, its not hard to do.

If when drilling holes that you fell could get the arour to spin in the quill, then you could make a clamp to retain the drill from spinning, or as simple as snapping on a vise grip positioned in a way that if it did spin, its not going far, and not going to gouge up the quill in the process.

One other thing to practice. Wipe the quill clean before you insert your arbour, also wipe the arbour clean aswell. These should be clean, dry, and oil free before inserting them.

 

[ranch23]

Here is some good information that I have learned in 26 years of gunsmithing and machine work. They are called precision machine tools for a reason. They were built and manufactured by precision machines and people who practiced precision techniques to assemble them. If you want precision repeatable results you must practice precision thinking. That means every time you put something in a vise, on a faceplate, in a chuck or on any surface where you are going to hold it the first thing that you do is clean the surface that will do the holding. The second thing that you need to do is to rub your hand over the surface of your part to find any burrs or welding BBs. Remove them. I realize that a lot of folks are " newbies or hobbyists", but remember we all once were. I would reccomend not using a dremel on any machine tool ever. Precision. The word precision can never be used in the same sentence with the word dremel, or hand grinder or drill or...

 

[Metalmann]

Here is some good information that I have learned in 26 years of gunsmithing and machine work. They are called precision machine tools for a reason. They were built and manufactured by precision machines and people who practiced precision techniques to assemble them. If you want precision repeatable results you must practice precision thinking. That means every time you put something in a vise, on a faceplate, in a chuck or on any surface where you are going to hold it the first thing that you do is clean the surface that will do the holding. The second thing that you need to do is to rub your hand over the surface of your part to find any burrs or welding BBs. Remove them. I realize that a lot of folks are " newbies or hobbyists", but remember we all once were. I would reccomend not using a dremel on any machine tool ever. Precision. The word precision can never be used in the same sentence with the word dremel, or hand grinder or drill or...

That was drilled into my head as a Pup. I always kept a red shop rag in my back pocket to clean every contact surface, while working on machines. Keep your hands clean, keep your parts/surfaces clean.

 

[JohnG]

I had this problem with a recently acquired Pratt & Whitney lathe that's about my age. When I got the tail stock aligned to turn true between centers I noticed that longer drills were hitting a center drilled hole off center. The center drilled hole would pull them over, but the cut then favored one flute heavily. 2 chucks behaved like this either way I turned the tang. I could feel the taper bore was rough.

I read this thread a couple of times before acting, and it gave me the courage to act. I appreciated all the comments.

I did wrap sandpaper around a longer Morse taper arbor and did work the taper bore lightly, and it did work. Drill alignment pulled right over to dead center.

As the economists say: that may work in practice, but it will never hold up in theory.

 

[4GSR]

A lot of good answers here. I think I have tried most of them over the years. I haven't tried the "green weenie" yet.

One of the issues I've run into is trying to use a reamer to remove the "ringed" ringer positive metal left from spinning tapered shanks. You generally damaged the reamer doing so in the tailstock spindles that were made of tougher materials like 4130-4145 steel. The spindles on the smaller South Bends were much softer metal, little easier to ream.

Ken

 

[iron man]

A reamer is probably best. Trying to clean up the bore by hand with a Dremel or similar will leave more scratched areas that won't make contact with anything inserted into the bore. If the drill spun in the first place, the taper was probably already scratched up. A reamer would clean everything out giving you a fresh surface.

When using this kind of reamer go slow. Use plenty of cutting oil, anything meant for taps will work fine. Ream by hand and with draw frequently to clean chips off the reamer and out of the bore. If you let the chips build up, they will pack themselves into the bore causing more scratches or even breaking the reamer.

Hope this helps.

Sandro Di Filippo

I would second this I just touched mine up with a reamer I did it by hand and it turned out good as new!! Ray