Thoughts on a spider

Cool. The 8mm is a real elephant gun. I got an early post-ban/importation sunset Russian capture as well, parkerized and mismatched. I shot a few boxes of Turk WWI surplus ammo through it at 4-5 MOA. The barrel is badly fire-cracked and the bolt face collects bore rust, so it's never going to fire again without a rebarrel. Mausers are a PITA to do barrel work on, but if I came across a pre-profiled barrel like that, it would also be a no-brainer. Then it might be a fun gun for the NRA Military Silhouette game. I was hoping it would be good for that as-bought, but no guarantees with the losing side's war surplus, right?
 
Apologies for thread drift

If your not looking for correct mil surps there is a boat load of mausers in all shapes and cals.
I recently passed up a 1903a3 in 308 done nice. Retained OE sights and stock but was reblued polished and modestly jeweled bolt.
Drilled and tapped for match sights and scope. If he tossed in the match sights I might have bit ,

Im always looking for 1903, a3 and garands with poor barrels
Have a few M1 308 conversions already
New production A3 barrels are out there
criterionbarrels.com

M1903A3 BARREL, 308 WIN - Criterion Barrels

Direct replacement barrel for the M1903A3 rifle. Criterion 1903A3 barrels are often found in the hands of top CMP Games and National Match competitors.
criterionbarrels.com criterionbarrels.com
 
Oh baby, talk dirty to me. 1903 NM in 308 is one I'd really like to have. Even if it's a conversion/clone. I've never been in line for any type of estate or inheritance, so I don't have to worry about one appearing in my safe anytime soon.
 
Back on topic,
I have been looking for the info.
I know 12-15 years ago someone was putting out a counter boring kit for the mosin.
I also know I have seem videos on you tube with all sorts of set ups to counter bore muzzle ends.

I still think setting up the action barrel to be stationary and run the tool into the muzzle might be a better option.
 
My thought at this point is to hold the barreled action in the milling attachment on my SB 9” lathe. Just no way to fit a spider on the smithy without a ton of work.

Since the gun, overall, isn’t a high dollar collectible, with the metal finish at about 40% to 50% on the mag tube, receiver, but plate and small parts, and The bolt is pretty good as is the barrel. It’s trash as a shooter, other than going bang. Function well with the right overall length ammo. I don’t think I’m doing much harm with an attempted back bore. If it doesn’t work, then I may re line the barrel. That’s a bridge I’ll cross when I get there. Think positive fellas, the back bore is going to do the trick, at least allow me to hit a soda can at 20 paces. If there is improvements, I can play with bullet sizing to tune it further.

Back boring has been done on many older military rifles, must be something to it.
 
Well, other than the alteration to the rifle, you have nothing to lose. Accuracy can only improve if you're already at the floor.

I think that your plan to turn the boring tool in the lathe chuck is solid, since the bore is already piloted, it should be self-aligning to some point. You're just providing gas relief, so concentricity is the only thing to fuss over. If you can pick out projectiles with a fat or forward ogive, you might be able to take back some of the loss from the eroded throat. Plain lead unjacketed will hug the lands better too.
 
Tincamp67 said:
My thought at this point is to hold the barreled action in the milling attachment on my SB 9” lathe. Just no way to fit a spider on the smithy without a ton of work.

Since the gun, overall, isn’t a high dollar collectible, with the metal finish at about 40% to 50% on the mag tube, receiver, but plate and small parts, and The bolt is pretty good as is the barrel. It’s trash as a shooter, other than going bang. Function well with the right overall length ammo. I don’t think I’m doing much harm with an attempted back bore. If it doesn’t work, then I may re line the barrel. That’s a bridge I’ll cross when I get there. Think positive fellas, the back bore is going to do the trick, at least allow me to hit a soda can at 20 paces. If there is improvements, I can play with bullet sizing to tune it further.

Back boring has been done on many older military rifles, must be something to it.
Click to expand...
2 liter and gallon jugs are better targets, lol.
Save the soda cans for the pellet gun.
Are you reloading for this?
 
Strictly reloading for this. Don’t mind playing around to find the right load, but, with the current muzzle issue, I’m chasing my tail.

Got ahold of a single cavity Lyman .410 bullet mold today. I can make a sizer to reduce the diameter, but it’ll run a little heavy. 210gr +/-. most 38/40 bullets run .401 and 170gr to 180gr.
 
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Tincamp67 said:
Strictly reloading for this. Don’t mind playing around to find the right load, but, with the current muzzle issue, I’m chasing my tail.

Got ahold of a single cavity Lyman .410 bullet mold today. I can make a sizer to reduce the diameter, but it’ll run a little heavy. 210gr +/-. most 38/40 bullets run .401 and 170gr to 180gr.
Click to expand...
Got the reamer guide finished today. .409 reamer will slide through the chuck end of the guide, the other end was bored for a tight slip fit over the barrel and will but up against the end of the barrel to give me a good touch off point to calculate depth. Groove diameter on the rifling should be .408, so .409 will eliminate any of the rifling remnants. That’s good cuz I don’t have a .410. Found a .407, .409 and a .412. Then ran out of time working on getting things lined up and oriented with the milling attachment, but it’s coming along. Hoping to tackle the back bore tomorrow. Supposed to snow all day, so I’ll be staying inside anyway.
 
It’s done. Smooth easy process, but the flaw was indexing off the barrel flats to start the reamer in the guide. Even with the guide, the deeply recessed crown is off center, meaning the bore was off center to begin with. I guess that shouldn’t be a surprise. Range time will tell if it worked. May need to go to the .412 reamer. If I go to .412, I think I’ll chuck up the guide, ream it .412 dead center, and just use the guide with a hand drill this time. Not sure the setup I used last time in the lathe is even necessary?
 
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