Thoughts on Mini-Lathes

Never had an electronics issue on 7x lathes. But if I did ..... well electronics are not my thing. Even though I installed a MacPod tach on my LMS. (Recall my inaugural post in this topic that I was looking to get a G4000)

I have seen support for the electronics - things like rebuilt exchange boxes.

The electronic variable speed control is certainly a selling features. Given the limited power and rigidity, it may also be said a necessity to enable "tuning" the speed for a given turning operation. Heavier machines can just press on with anything close.
It is real nice to have
My lathe has 50 rpm to 1,100 rpm
No belt changing unless I want 2,200 rpm.

I was surprised how lathe works only being 120 pounds.
My lathe was a SB was weight around 700 pounds hard move around.

Dave
 
To be honest, I was suprised by my 7x having the balls to machine 316 stainless. No chattering, no hesitation using a carbide insert tool either in cutting or facing. Suprised the hell out of me did that one.

All I need now is to source some carbide inserts for Aluminium, brass, bronze and Acetal.
 
To be honest, I was suprised by my 7x having the balls to machine 316 stainless. No chattering, no hesitation using a carbide insert tool either in cutting or facing. Suprised the hell out of me did that one.

All I need now is to source some carbide inserts for Aluminium, brass, bronze and Acetal.
Most time I use HSS tool bits.
I will grind for the machining job. Carbide I would need drawer full of different ones.
When doing production work I would invest in just for job.
It is easy to change a insert and keep going.

There one part i used HSS tool bits as there was no carbide for job that was for a double Flange groves on wheels.

Dave
 
To be fair, if I need a custom tool for a specific job, I would drop for a few HSS blanks and then grind and hone the tool I need.

After that, I would most likely cut the end and regrind for a different job.
 
@CraigH

A Question: How many 7x machines will be around in 30 or 40 years in comparison to the older, heavier, better built "machines of old" (as in Myford or boxford as a UK example)?

Hard to know.

All machines are built to a certain level and expected to wear at a certain rate. Nothing lasts forever, despite what anyone may hope or wish.
In terms of older lathes (like early ML7s), some didn't have hardened ways. Mini lathes built in say, the last 5 years at least, generally do have hardened ways* so arguably durability in one of the most important regards could be better in 7x mini-lathes than say an early 50's ML7.

Of course, that doesn't mean that a mini-lathe is a better purchase than than a tidy ML7 but it's good to be sure we're not just assuming that 'old iron is best iron'

I guess the point of all my ramblings on this thread has been that, like for most interesting or important things in life, simple answers are very rarely useful or even correct. ;)


*grant you, some models' ways are hardened using heat hardening rather than induction hardening (another aspect where importer makes a difference, for example, both Warco's two mini lathes have induction hardened ways) which can, in some cases, cause other issues like warping of the castings.
 
@SouthernChap
Well, you make lots of very valid points but it kinda feels like you're just doing the flipside of what the old iron proponents do.

I very much doubt if any given instance of the Chinese 7x mini-lathe could accurately be described as 'perfect' :grin:

Like I said "when buying machine tools, there are no right answers, only trade offs."

Also, it's a nit, but I wrote "for beginners with small budgets, the mini lathe is perfect". Two gigantic qualifiers.

I should have written less aggressively. I'm sympathetic to the people looking for that first lathe. There's so much you don't yet know and certain kinds of posts are discouraging and distracting. Less on this forum than elsewhere, I think.
 
I've machined stainless steel on my 7X lathe with no problems at all. Based on comments I've seen regarding stainless, I was concerned -- but no problem. I did use carbide-insert cutters and tried to avoid work-hardening....but really didn't notice any difficulties.

I made a batch of replacement stopper parts for our kitchen sinks out of stainless, to replace the original crappy crummy chrome-plated-plastic pieces. Along the way I learned that tolerances for the rubber stoppers are ginormous. I shoulda known, many plumbing parts' "dimensions" are nowhere close to to the actual ones. At least, based on my experience.
 
I have always liked catalogs for products of interest.

So I took a few minutes to search out some information. Specially about South Bend lathes - and the model that I would consider having been the hobbyist lathe when manufactured. BTW, I hope my posts are seen as at least somewhat objective. I would very much like a Logan or South Bend. The mini-lathe serves for me, but in lathes, if there are no considerations of weight and price, bigger serves better.

Here, briefly, is some historical South Bend information. Any errors in nomenclature may be corrected by the more knowledgeable.

In 1937, a 9 inch SB (series name "Workshop") with motor and horizontal drive was priced at $116.00. That is with change gears, not threading gearbox. In this configuration the weight is 320 pounds. The catalog shows a payment plan. An extremely rough equivalence in specification to the mini-lathe of today - talking features not size or quality.

In 1967, a 9 inch SB (Now with Precision in the name - looks the same lathe) with motor and horizontal drive was priced by $315.00 (With WW2 government sponsored inflation). The 9 inch SB lathes have a 3/4 inch spindle through hole.

Given the specified weight they were (are) some 65-70 pounds heavier than the current Grizzly G4000.

Hope this is useful for new or prospective mini-lathe folks.
 
Well, since I quoted your post, of course my referring you to my post about giving advice to beginners was aimed at you!:grin:

I'm not saying there won't be issues (and in some cases, issues that require the importer to provide replacement components or even accept an RMA).

I was saying that, when providing advice to beginners, rather than using terms like "junk" or "garbage" or indeed "POS" and dismissing the mini-lathe as a whole class of lathe, it's best to provide general details about the fact that issues with fit and finish aren't uncommon and in some cases, from some importers, serious problems can pop up.

That provides the 'advisee' with useful, realistic, credible information that they can use to add to their assessment of the worth of mini-lathes generally. :)

There is also an attitude that all "mini lathes" (aka small enough to fit in a Honda Ridgeline) are the same. The issues specific to the 7x minis have spread to become common knowledge of the issues with all small lathes. Anybody with some experience of the other lathes knows is not the case. Some issues (rigidity, working area) of course are common to all, but the spotty quality control and "pre-assembled kit" issues are most prevalent with the 7x minis.


There were a couple of other things I wanted to say in my previous (far too long:oops::grin:) post about how to give good advice to potential purchasers of mini-lathes, but I clean forgot.

Firstly, even Quinn of Blondihacks fame (who I respect and admire greatly and is easily one of the best educators for beginner/early-intermediate hobbyists on YouTube and generally doesn't suffer from a 'You don't have a Monarch 10? Pfft!" attitude), is guilty of dismissing the potential usefulness of 7x Chinese mini-lathe as a class of lathes in her "How to buy an import lathe" video.

In fact, most YouTubers using Chinese benchtop lathes, whatever their size, seem to take a slightly rueful, apologetic tone about their machines' capabilities. It's almost like they're ashamed of not having US/UK/European old iron that can hog out tool steel at deep DOCs in a single pass.

That's silly of course. If you can do useful work on a tool and teach others useful skills via that useful work, then that tool doesn't need to be apologised for, and shouldn't be apologised for, as 'apologising' perpetuates that ambient culture of 'macho' machinist gatekeeping we've seen for years (and one that this place is thankfully, largely free of :)).

My one gripe with Blondihacks' lathe buying advice video is it quickly became apparent that she hadn't done much homework and really just knows her lathe. The buying info was fine for the most part, but when she got into comparisons she ended up spreading some of the same bad information that is so common. Not just on the smaller than 10" lathes, but also showed a bias against vintage machines.

People often talk about "the old iron" people, but the opposite attitude that "old iron" is all over priced worn out junk is also quite common. Both are wrong. Vintage lathes can be a fantastic bargain, many of the old lathes were made to a higher standard, with more features than anything you can buy today of a similar size.
They are also old, so yes there is a lot of worn out over priced junk out there. Just as buying a new import lathe it is up to the buyer to know what they are looking at.

The market has spoken. Whether the white-bearded machinist clucks under his breath or shakes his head disapprovingly, people have already chosen the 7x machines as the entry point into machining. Everyone beginner who buys one is delighted and works to improve the machine. The same trajectory can be seen in budget 3D printers. Buy a cheap one and make improvements. The complainers are inevitably people who
  1. do larger work,
  2. have worked on lathes that cost 50x or 100x more and won't adjust their techniques, patience, and expectations
  3. who have a taste for better-quality equipment (that the shop owner paid for) and feel a little entitled
  4. are signaling virtue, competence, belonging, experience
  5. spend a lot of time and effort finding used equipment
I think we can safely ignore the opinions of all of these people.

Instead of calling import lathes "junk", we should think of it as "introduction to machining".

The comparison to 3D printing is a good one. The Ender 3s are super popular as entry level machines because they are cheap, and for people who like to tinker ideal. They are kind of tinkering required. Just like the 7x lathes Ender now has options from bargain basement to those that already include many of the popular upgrades.
On the other end you have printers like the Prusa 3, very similar to the Ender 3 on paper, but without the low budget issues and need to tinker. Also 4x the price.

Where the comparison kind of falls down is 3D printing is such young tech, that the "old timers" have only been at it maybe 10-15 years, and there really isn't a vintage market for machines. Even the cheapest entry level printer today is as good as pro stuff from 10 years ago. You take something like a current Elegoo Mars 4 at less than $300, a similar printer just 5-10 years ago would have been $3000-5000.

I don't think a lot of the mini-lathe "haters" are really guilty of anything beyond not seeing beyond their own experience / needs. There is a reason why people looking to start a career are often sent to talk with the most recent hires. This is not just delegating, the new hires are usually the most up to date on the hiring trends. A guy who has been at a company for 15 or 20 years may not even know that all hiring is done online these days, or what the current requirements are. I find the same thing often happens with machining. The people who have been at it "forever" are a great source of info, but can easily forget what they didn't know in the beginning, and having bought their equipment 10, 20, 50 years ago, may be very out of touch with the current market.

Many people buy a larger lathe not to be cool, but because their work requires a lathe of that size. Mini-lathes are primarily used for small hobby work, and others hobbies can easily be seen as just a waste of time to those outside the hobby.
 
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