Time for a Dro, need some help

What a pain in the ass to install..... but it’s amazing how much more accurate it is now. No more adding in backlash.

Yep, but taking the time and pains to do a good install and following the installation tolerances is time very well spent! Do it right once and enjoy the fruits of your labor!

Ted
 
No more adding in backlash.
Even though the DRO will give you an accurate position, for the cross feed, it's a good idea to get the backlash out anyways so your slide doesn't move during the cut.

Ted
 
Even though the DRO will give you an accurate position, for the cross feed, it's a good idea to get the backlash out anyways so your slide doesn't move during the cut.

Ted
Ive replaced all wear items on the lathes except the cross feed nut, for the life of me I can’t figure out what size it is. It’s a supermax 13-38 and the acme threads fit in a 8tpi gauge but it’s some oddball diameter , something like 15mm, I gotta get the measurements, maybe you guys can help me figure this **** out
 
I'm not at all familiar with that machine and not much help as of size for the nut. If it's an import, it's possible that it has an imperial lead, but a metric diameter, but maybe others are more familiar with that machine.

But, even with a new nut/screw you will still have some backlash. It's by design that there is clearance in acme threading. If you want zero backlash you would need a ball screw and nut. This is what most CNC type machines use because of the zero back lash.

Ted
 
I'm not at all familiar with that machine and not much help as of size for the nut. If it's an import, it's possible that it has an imperial lead, but a metric diameter, but maybe others are more familiar with that machine.

But, even with a new nut/screw you will still have some backlash. It's by design that there is clearance in acme threading. If you want zero backlash you would need a ball screw and nut. This is what most CNC type machines use because of the zero back lash.

Ted

FYI (EDIT: to others reading, not Technical Ted :p) , ballscrews are not appropriate for manual machines as the will backdrive and slip out of position in a cut if not locked in place (like a motor holding the shaft).
 
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FYI, ballscrews are not appropriate for manual machines as the will backdrive and slip out of position in a cut if not locked in place (like a motor holding the shaft).
Totally agree. I wasn't suggesting he went that route, just trying to explain the difference. Guess I should have been more clear. Thanks for pointing this out. The same goes for milling machines and other machines as well. Manual machines should have the friction and holding power of the acme screw/nut.

Ted
 
So many buttons .... any one know if I should be using the “linear” or “rotary” setting
 

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