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Too Many Chips in the Scroll when Boring

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When using a boring bar, the chips are pushed into the bore.
I’m curious what you do to keep chips out of the scroll on a 3 jaw.
I just cleaned it, now I have to do it again.
(On the other site someone would say, “don’t use a 3 jaw”)
Ball of foil stuffed into the bore?
I appreciate your ideas.
Jeff
 

Comments

#2
I stuff a piece of foam p.e. pipe insulation into the bore. It keeps the chips out but will not harm the boring tool if it contacts it.
 
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#3
I may be doing it wrong, but on my el cheapo Chicom 3-jaw scroll chuck, stuffing something in the bore will keep the bore clean, but it won’t keep chips out of the scroll. There is a gap between the surface where the through bore starts and the back of the jaws where swarf can get into the scroll and/or the jaw engagement grooves. I recently did some boring and got some swarf in the scroll that made the jaws difficult to adjust. I removed the jaws and brushed the scroll grooves out with a small paint brush as I slowly rotated the scroll with the chuck key. That cleaned it up and I didn’t have to take it apart. ymmv.

Tom
 
#4
Hi Guys,

As far as trying to keep the bore clean, I don't bother unless I need to put something in the taper or use the lathe handle. Then I use a pull through, in my case a 12 bore brass shotgun barrel cleaner. I have used strips of sponge on a length of string as well.

Keeping the scroll clean is a matter of removing the jaws and giving them a good brushing with a brass suede brush. The scroll is cleaned with a wooden chopstick, shaped at the end to fit into the scroll groove. Inserted at the outside edge of the scroll and twisted slightly so it contacts the bottom and both edges of the scroll, whilst winding the scroll so that the chopstick moves any debris to the center, where I can just brush it away.

Afterwards oil both the scroll and the jaws, then refit them. Job done in a few minutes.
 
#5
Just thinking but wouldn't modeling clay pressed in before tightening the jaws be a good stop gap???
 
#6
This is a real pain when doing a through-bore and I hate cleaning chips out if I don't have to because I'm lazy. I normally use a longer than required piece of stock and do a blind bore long enough to give me the length I need after its bored out and then I part off the bored part I need. I waste a tiny bit of stock but not much. With proper feed you get big spiral chips but no matter how careful you are, there will always be some little ones.

I am also careful to stuff a rag into the spindle taper to keep crap out. Yes, you can clean it but that leaves scratches in the taper, even in a hardened spindle. Wow, that Mikey is anal!
 
#7
Just thinking but wouldn't modeling clay pressed in before tightening the jaws be a good stop gap???
Hi, Just think for a minute ! What is going to happen to the modeling clay or plasticine when you try to remove it ?
Small, even minute amounts are going to get smeared all around the scroll, even if you remove the jaws and clean the teeth, there are still going to be some of it settling in there, ready to pick up particles that you can't get rid of without stripping the whole chuck.

Even using the cleaning method I suggested, there are still going to be particles of material that you cannot get at and remove. I strip and clean my chucks every couple of years and the amount of debris that gets in there you wouldn't believe, and I don't use my lathe on anything like a regular basis.
 
#8
If not jamed int
Hi, Just think for a minute ! What is going to happen to the modeling clay or plasticine when you try to remove it ?
Small, even minute amounts are going to get smeared all around the scroll, even if you remove the jaws and clean the teeth, there are still going to be some of it settling in there, ready to pick up particles that you can't get rid of without stripping the whole chuck.

Even using the cleaning method I suggested, there are still going to be particles of material that you cannot get at and remove. I strip and clean my chucks every couple of years and the amount of debris that gets in there you wouldn't believe, and I don't use my lathe on anything like a regular basis.
If it's not jammed in the opening I doubt it will stick to the metal accept as a glob . But whatever I'd try it on mine if it was a problem . Or shove a paper towel in each area.
 
#9
Chop sticks-move chips toward center, I like it.
I am glad to hear i'm not the only one with this time consuming clean up.
I don't know about all 3 jaw scroll chucks but my scroll is exposed.
I like the blind hole too. Some applications will allow for it.
I may try a ball of foil.
 
#10
I just used wadded up newspaper.
It worked great!
No chips to clean out of the scroll!!!!!
 
#11
Keeping the scroll clean is a matter of removing the jaws and giving them a good brushing with a brass suede brush. The scroll is cleaned with a wooden chopstick, shaped at the end to fit into the scroll groove. Inserted at the outside edge of the scroll and twisted slightly so it contacts the bottom and both edges of the scroll, whilst winding the scroll so that the chopstick moves any debris to the center, where I can just brush it away.
Thanks! I plan to try your technique next time I do internal boring or threading. Might make it quicker and easier by chucking a ⅜" or ½" socket adapter in the ol' cordless drill, so I don't have to wind it by hand.
 
#12
Only time I worry about the spindle bore is when I'm going to put a center in the taper and then I clean it spotless. General cleaning I just vacuum out then use a large bottle brush attached to a piece of dowel to push any remaining crap out the back of the spindle into a plastic bag. One of those vacuum attachments for computer keyboards get into small places like the scroll and a piece of wood or plastic as scraper helps then winding with a bit of cloth on a stick cleans any remaining muck. Small magnet like on a hook & pick set is good for getting the odd bit of gunk out. Don't put oil on your scroll it holds dirt! Spray-on Silicon is pretty good stuff. Usually the only time you need to really get stuck in is if a bit of swarf get lodged in somewhere and you will feel it when turning the chuck key.
 
#13
With an old lathe, the spindle is threaded, I have an MT4 bore.
If the jaws are opened up beyond 2" diameter you can see the scroll. This is the area I want to keep chips out of. I'm not concerned about chips in the bore. The newspaper filled the void where chips can get into the scroll.
You guys with the newer machines may not have this problem?
I'm not experienced enough to know if some chucks have closed scrolls?
Anyway, newspaper works for my old lathe.
 
#14
Hi Guys,

If you are not passing material through the spindle and want to keep it clean, why not make a back stop that plugs into the taper and has an adjustable screw so you can change the depth. Just leave it in place until you need to use the spindle bore.

I used to have a wooden one with a 1/4" whit bolt in it ! It got borrowed a long time ago. I now have a 2MT taper drill shank, that was cut off a scrapped drill. I drilled it and threaded it 0BA. I now use that as a back stop.

Two uses for the price of one :D
 
#15
Imo, Any time you are doing a through bore, you are going to end up with chips in the scroll.

Taking your chucks apart for regular maintenance is a good practice to get into. I strip mine down for maintenance every 2 or 3 projects on average. Sometimes I even have to do it in the middle of a project.
 
#16
I would not recommend paper towels or newspaper. The chips are potentially hot enough to start this 'kindling' on fire. Ask me how I know. I like the ball of tin foil idea. Cheap & conformable. I use that across the lathe bed once in a while with nasty stuff like cast iron or rust scale. I'm always paranoid of rags getting caught up in the jaw or tangling in the leadscrew. I have a cheapo shop vac I use around the machines. Brush the big swarf away & then its a lot easier to just clean the smaller bits with suction. Compressed air, even low pressure, can push crap into nooks & crannies where it doesn't belong, but I use it sparingly for vacating small holes like threading or whatever.
 
#17
With an old lathe, the spindle is threaded, I have an MT4 bore.
If the jaws are opened up beyond 2" diameter you can see the scroll. This is the area I want to keep chips out of. I'm not concerned about chips in the bore. The newspaper filled the void where chips can get into the scroll.
You guys with the newer machines may not have this problem?
I'm not experienced enough to know if some chucks have closed scrolls?
Anyway, newspaper works for my old lathe.

Some (very)small cheep brushes are handy for getting in their and cleaning out places like that.

Stu
 
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