-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
Tool and cutter grinder build
- Thread starter Mark_f
- Start date
I made the knob separate and pressed it on, so I had the draw bar shaft to hold on to. I chucked up a piece of 1 1/2" stock and just tuned all the diameters (2), and single pointed the threads on the end. I sawed the shaft off the bar stock and made the knob and pressed it on. I probably should have posted a lot more machining photos . I usually post anything odd or special but just basic turning and milling I didn't photograph. ( didn't think about newbies who might need to see more of that... sorry..
).Actually, I wasn't sure very many are watching this. I know a few of you that are and thank you all who are watching. This is a tough project, but one that anyone can build if they want to invest the time. I only have basic machines and I hope to show that you can build your own QUALITY equipment for those like me that cannot lay out a few thousand dollars for a tool grinder. YOU can build most of your own tooling and some equipment.
I will make more pics of building the spindle.
Last edited by a moderator:
This thread has over 8000 views. I think he knows...
Bill,
When I send you the prints watch for errors ( I get a little dyslexic with numbers). I have tried to document everything from the beginning, but can't guarantee I didn't make any mistakes, but you'll be able to figure any errors out. Once I get the spindle made, I should be ready to try it out.
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2013
- Messages
- 870
But he didn't seem to know that.This thread has over 8000 views. I think he knows...
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2014
- Messages
- 2,156
I've been checking it a couple a times a day, I love his work on this, he could have made a real nice tutorial series on YOU tube with all of this stuff he has done on this build.
I can just imagine the changes to the original drawings he started out with. I'm betting this will function real nice when he finishes it up.
I can just imagine the changes to the original drawings he started out with. I'm betting this will function real nice when he finishes it up.
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2013
- Messages
- 870
Agreed. As a novice I've often found myself looking at a project and thinking it's fairly straight forward, but when I go to do it, I realize there's a little more logistics involved as to what to do first, and how to do it. Seeing the process helps out immensely. Then again I just love watching that kind of thing anyway.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 78
Mark,
The following comments are for others that are considering making a tool grinder.
You have done an excelent job with the changes that I recognize.
Most of us will be starting this project with material from the scrap box to minimize purchacing.
You know, an Engineers work shop is as good as his scrap box.
When changing the design to accomodate other material sizes, unforseen consequences may arrise.
My suggestion is to make a full size sketch with pertinant dimensions recorded.
Its much easier erasing and changing than when its in steel.
Next, when making something with a sliding fit, use the principal of: L/D = 3 or more.
Another words the length of engagement is three times the diameter or width of the slide.
An example of a poor L/D is the lock on the storm door closer, it tilts, jams and is locked.
A good example is a arbor press with an L/W of 4 or so.
Just my 2 cents.
Mark, As far as the spindle is concerned you will not have an issue based upon the skill demonstrated thus far.
The most important point to keep in mind is to press only on the outside race when assembling into the housing.
Then press only on the insider race when assembling on the shaft. This procedure prevents Brenneling the balls in the bearing assembly.
Most spindle designs firmly clamp the bearing at the wheel end in position both sides of each race.
The belt end is allowed to float axialy in the housing to accomodate thermal expansion.
Exterior seals on the ball bearing are in order as well as running in a bath of light spindle oil.
When turned off the oil level should cover the ball at the lowest position.
Keep up the outstanding work!
Restorer
The following comments are for others that are considering making a tool grinder.
You have done an excelent job with the changes that I recognize.
Most of us will be starting this project with material from the scrap box to minimize purchacing.
You know, an Engineers work shop is as good as his scrap box.
When changing the design to accomodate other material sizes, unforseen consequences may arrise.
My suggestion is to make a full size sketch with pertinant dimensions recorded.
Its much easier erasing and changing than when its in steel.
Next, when making something with a sliding fit, use the principal of: L/D = 3 or more.
Another words the length of engagement is three times the diameter or width of the slide.
An example of a poor L/D is the lock on the storm door closer, it tilts, jams and is locked.
A good example is a arbor press with an L/W of 4 or so.
Just my 2 cents.
Mark, As far as the spindle is concerned you will not have an issue based upon the skill demonstrated thus far.
The most important point to keep in mind is to press only on the outside race when assembling into the housing.
Then press only on the insider race when assembling on the shaft. This procedure prevents Brenneling the balls in the bearing assembly.
Most spindle designs firmly clamp the bearing at the wheel end in position both sides of each race.
The belt end is allowed to float axialy in the housing to accomodate thermal expansion.
Exterior seals on the ball bearing are in order as well as running in a bath of light spindle oil.
When turned off the oil level should cover the ball at the lowest position.
Keep up the outstanding work!
Restorer