Tool post drilling in a small lathe

First, I apologize for the jerkiness in the video, the camera is on a magnetic base clamped to my computer's keyboard/mouse platform, every time I use the mouse the platform jiggles, I'll find a better spot for it.

This is my first time with a 1/2" drill so I kept fiddling with speeds, power feeds, and lube. In the end, I think 400 rpm, medium feed and a shot of tapping fluid worked the best. I also need to wear gloves, those shavings are sharp! Anyway, the 1/2" hole is not critical, it's plenty good enough with a drill, that it's way above my requirements and expectations is delightful :D .

Here's a link to the video, and a picture of the hole.

Tool Post 0.5" Drilling

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Don't touch those chips with your hands. A hook or pair of pliers would be much better.

Try to get the feed to around 0.0025" per revolution.
 
No gloves around moving equipment! And the swarf will get imbedded into the gloves: get a couple of pairs of extra long, plastic tweezers to handle the swarf (after the chuck stops moving).

Like these:
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Horror Freight sells a set of long, stainless forceps that I like for this task...
 
I liked tool post drilling so much that I decided to buy a CXA size holder for my new old lathe. I bought one off a generic seller on Ebay.

It reminds me of the T-Rex in the animated movie "The Robinsons" where the T-Rex says "I don't think you thought this out very well."

The tang on the MT3 tang doesn't reach through the slot to knock it out. I had to use a rod and hammer, but then I didn't have a third hand to catch the ejected tool.

Thank God I know someone with a mill (me!)

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You can see how much I had to remove to get a clear shot at the tang with a brass hammer.
 
I replied before about carriage drilling, of which I am not sold on, and still can not see any advantage of not using the tail stock. To me setting the tool post a true 90 to the chuck and the tool holder to the correct height then zeroing in X leaves much room for error when I can load the M3 drill bit or drill chuck adaptor into the tail stock and be accurate ( +/- 1 or 2 ) and drill holes without pushing an offset drill bit.
 
I've always wondered if those holders were hardened or not.
 
I replied before about carriage drilling, of which I am not sold on, and still can not see any advantage of not using the tail stock. To me setting the tool post a true 90 to the chuck and the tool holder to the correct height then zeroing in X leaves much room for error when I can load the M3 drill bit or drill chuck adaptor into the tail stock and be accurate ( +/- 1 or 2 ) and drill holes without pushing an offset drill bit.
Your resistance to the concept has been noted and rejected.

I can drill bigger and more accurate holes with less effort than with the tail stock, on my little lathe. The feed control keeps the engagement to 0.0025" per revolution, where as hand turning the tailstock can result in a higher chip load and stalling the little lathe.

Next week I will drill a 3" deep 1" diameter hole in 1045 steel on my big lathe and I will thoroughly enjoy watching it do all the work for me. Lol.

You might not understand how it's possible but I actually use both....... ;)

I didn't remove my tailstock. I grab it when I want to.
 
Your resistance to the concept has been noted and rejected.

I can drill bigger and more accurate holes with less effort than with the tail stock, on my little lathe. The feed control keeps the engagement to 0.0025" per revolution, where as hand turning the tailstock can result in a higher chip load and stalling the little lathe.

Next week I will drill a 3" deep 1" diameter hole in 1045 steel on my big lathe and I will thoroughly enjoy watching it do all the work for me. Lol.

You might not understand how it's possible but I actually use both....... ;)

I didn't remove my tailstock. I grab it when I want to.
I didn't reject it, I am in agreement with him. If you are sold on that you do you boo....
 
I didn't reject it, I am in agreement with him. If you are sold on that you do you boo....
I have responded to this as well.
I served my apprenticeship at a major lathe manufacture, I not only learned to machine but I also built brand new lathes, the last three went to the US navy for ship board use.
If the engineers thought this was a good idea the lathe manufactures would be all over it.
If you look at the physics of it, you would realize why.
PS with my 35+ years in machine building scrapping and field service, I can't tell you how many times I have heard "we have been doing it that way forever have never had any problems" the statement is seldom true....and now I am here to repair what?
As I said before put some indicators on your slide and watch the affect.
MOM said, " you can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink"
Now ,I just smile and shrug my shoulders.
Coming from a lathe company you would be laughed out of the buildings for saying it was faster....
 
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