[4]

Tramming your Vertical Milling Head

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!

itsme_Bernie

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
1,749
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen (and all other members hyah hah)


I have a Model 70 Rusnok Vertical Milling head mounted on the 2 inch overarm of a Hardinge TM Mill.


What method do you use to tram your head? I know there are lots of methods, I use a few, but it can only help to know what other ways are out there.


I have an EZ Tram "Nano Tram" stand that goes over the vice, and use an indicator and swing it in a collet. This method is not always an option because it can interfere with work in the vice, since it has to span over the vice. This defeats the purpose.

I occasionally use a square from the mill table to the side of the Rusnok, which has a flat machined on the side for this purpose. But again, not always possible.

I also have one of those Coaxial indicators, which is great, but uses a lot of "Z" room, and I have had situations with a rotary table and chuck where it wouldn't fit!


What methods do you guys use? What tips and tricks have you found helpful to do this more accurately, quickly, simply? Or what is just the best and most accurate way when you have time and space?

Thanks for your opinions!


Bernie
 
Last edited:
D

Deleted member 20190

Guest - Please Register!
Guest - Please Register!
I usually tram the head to the table, and just use a DTI and mount clamped in a collet.
 

Rick Leslie

Active User
Registered
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
480
Same here, except I have an old bearing race that's about 8" in diameter. I lay it on the mill table an tram the race surface for uninterrupted DTI travel. The race is ground true so there are no variations in the surface height. I'll try to get some pics while in the shop today. I do have plans to build one of the dual indicator tramming gizmos though. Should make set-ups quicker.
 

itsme_Bernie

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
1,749
Thanks a guys- and what if you have work on the mill table?
Are there any tricks for this?

I am quite sure I have a large bearing race around that I kept for this purpose, but I so rarely have the mill table completely empty.

Bernie
 

jamie76x

Active User
Registered
Joined
Feb 23, 2013
Messages
202
I always indicate right off the table.... Some times I lay a 8x8" piece of glass on the table so the indicator sweaps uninterupted...
After a few years of working in a tool and die shop I tend to indicate everything. After I put a vise on my mill I will indicate it straight ad well as flat. I have seen many of vise not be true. When in doubt, indicate .
 

Jericho

Active User
Registered
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Messages
91
Glad someone else had this epiphany. I realized how useful the glass would be for just such usage while cleaning up a mess from a broken storm window.i couldn't help but think float glass might be very close to the same dimension over a sq ft area and hopping those slots was a pain.And you don't have to get so precise on the centering like you do on a bearing race.


I always indicate right off the table.... Some times I lay a 8x8" piece of glass on the table so the indicator sweaps uninterupted...
After a few years of working in a tool and die shop I tend to indicate everything. After I put a vise on my mill I will indicate it straight ad well as flat. I have seen many of vise not be true. When in doubt, indicate .
 

RWL

Active User
Registered
Joined
Nov 11, 2011
Messages
222
I always indicate right off the table.... Some times I lay a 8x8" piece of glass on the table so the indicator sweaps uninterupted...
How thick is the piece of glass? ....or are you using plain window glass?

- - - Updated - - -

Same here, except I have an old bearing race that's about 8" in diameter.
Where did you get a large bearing race like that?
 

AR1911

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
868
I made up a tramming tool with a 12" piece of 1" square aluminum solid.
Arbor in one end (actually a caliper bolt from a Ford)
DTI mount on the other end.

Gives me enough reach to be REAL accurate.

I happen to have a real nice piece of tempered glass about 8x30. It was a shelf.
I have been sabving it, but I just now realized what I was saving it for!
 

DAN_IN_MN

Active User
Registered
Joined
Aug 7, 2013
Messages
658
I made up a tramming tool with a 12" piece of 1" square aluminum solid.
Arbor in one end (actually a caliper bolt from a Ford)
DTI mount on the other end.

Gives me enough reach to be REAL accurate.

I happen to have a real nice piece of tempered glass about 8x30. It was a shelf.
I have been saving it, but I just now realized what I was saving IT for!
Great post OP which developed great responses!

Now, to find a use for the other 100 or so ITs we have hanging around!
 
D

Deleted member 473

Guest - Please Register!
Guest - Please Register!
I have a new disc brake rotor I use to tram in the vertical head.
 

Billh50

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
1,922
when I can't get low enough to reach the table because I have something mounted already. (This happens sometimes when you break an endmill and want to check the head before continuing. Anyway, I use 2 blocks (1x2x3 or 2x3x4 ) and tram from one to the other.
 

high country

Newbie
Registered
Joined
Feb 11, 2012
Messages
11
A large block is super useful for this. I have a pair of 12" ground blocks and it's super easy to wipe the table, set the block on the table, extend the quill 100% and retract 100% while in contact with the block. Split the difference and double check on the table.....takes less time than anything else I've tried.
 
[5] [7]
Top