Tread mill motor

After seeing what can be done with treadmill motors I’ve been on the hunt for one , I found a free one on CL and here it is.
I don’t think it’s reversible as the brushes are at a slight angle. The flywheel fan didn’t want to come off , I found one of the resistors legs on the card broken , should be able to solder it back together.
I guess my question is what will I have to get to make it work for ?? A belt sander ?.
Thanks for any / all advice
8DCD1B4D-FA81-4EE3-8743-41E531EA11B0.jpeg 773D7458-861B-4F11-974D-7CAD7A6E7F84.jpeg 075CB4F7-2080-478B-BC61-26C3E3F2F2EE.jpeg 068D93D0-A5F0-4D48-ABA2-6C9EFECDFDD6.jpeg 2562A916-844A-4B06-8D51-BE6BAFA5030E.jpeg 682EDF7D-7CE5-4784-98DE-DEA09FB0EFA2.jpeg


Left hand thread on flywheel end..if brushes aren't straight across you can still reverse but might have little power loss.looks like a mc60 controller.easy to hook up..I've used same on several machines..pick up any commercial treadmills you can..much larger motors and most have KB controllers..have safe
Hi Dlane,

Yes reaction brush gear is designed to run in one direction, not that it matters for a belt grinder. Just put the motor on which ever side, so that it runs in the correct direction. Broken and unsoldered component leads are common failures.
A 5k potentiometer is all you need to control the speed. It order to get it to start, you turn the pot all of the way down and then bring it back up. The thing that looks like a transformer is a choke. It smooths out the current and reduces the arcing and hum.
Thanks Guys , yes the flywheel came off easy when turning it the correct way, it seems to have a small shaft for direct drive , still thinking of a compact design for a ? 2x72 grinder , any great designs out there .
keep the flywheel, turn the polyV section down and press your new pulley on. The flywheel is needed for cooling and also helps smooth out the power if the load is intermittent.

Chris, that's an MC60, so you can cut or remove a resistor that is connected to the pot center wiper post to remove that "soft start" feature. I've done it on both of my machines that have MC60s and it works a treat.
A 5k potentiometer is all you need to control the speed. It order to get it to start, you turn the pot all of the way down and then bring it back up.
Alternative: Wire a switch between the center of the pot and the input terminal on the board. This allows you to restart at your original speed - no need to turn the pot down all the way.

When I set up a drill press with a treadmill motor a couple years ago, I was lucky enough to find a switched pot (one with a pull-on-push-off switch on the pot shaft). I use the 110AC switch to power up the board and turn on a light. Then use the pot-switch for motor on-off and speed.

PS - There's a "slow it down gradually" function on the circuit board that's a bit irritating when using my pot-switch. Slows the motor down gradually (a safety feature for a treadmill). I've not yet figured out how to disable this function. "One o' these days" I'll try delving into the schematic and start playing. Probably best to have a spare circuit board on hand when I do it, in case I blow something up ...
Easiest way to run this motor is to use an SCR type light dimmer into a bridge rectifier then directly to the motor if the supply is 120V (or 110V).
Easiest way to run this motor is to use an SCR type light dimmer into a bridge rectifier then directly to the motor if the supply is 120V (or 110V).
Would mind going into more detail on this. or pointing me in the right direction to educate myself about it.

The treadmill motor is 120V DC, so you need to turn the 110V AC into DC.

110V 2hp will draw about 13amps max. You will need a 2000w light dimmer and I would use a 50amp bridge

Something like these

SCR Light dimmers chop the AC which reduces the AC RMS voltage. If you feed this into a bridge rectifier, DC will come out which can be connected directly to the DC motor

DC Motor control.png
With the circuit above the motor will slow down with heavier cuts- no load regulation like the fancier controllers, but it is cheap and simple.
For my honey extractor I removed what controlled the little motor that raised and lowered the treadmill angle, but not being sure what was what, I left the rest pretty much intact. I made a wood and metal box to house the transformer and cir uit board, and made an extended wire harness to connect to the motor, only because it's convenient for me to have the control panel on the kitchen table while I'm uncapping frames of honey. I can just reach over and increase toe speed or turn off if there is a problem. The soft start is great for my use, as well as the tab that acts as a kill switch.
By using all of the original stuff, I didn't have to build any circuitry or spend a lot of money I have another motor and controls that I will probably use on my old school scrollsaw.
Hey Tony: I always thought it would be cool to have a couple hives- It would be interesting to see your honey extractor device
Firstly - apologies to the OP for digressing on this thread

This was my first and only hive. My friend who has a dozen or so hives advised me to get Flow Hive.

I have a small Flow Hive with 3 flow frames and 4 normal frames in the super. I leave the normal frames for the bees and only harvest from the flow frames.

Harvesting is as easy as the video. The only thing I would do is add a shelf to the rear of the brood box to put the container on.

cheers Warren
No problem, used to be a bee keeper ages ago myself 1980s , our extractor was motorized back then in AZ.
It can take up to an hour for ads to appear on the page. See our code implementation guide for more details. If you already have Auto ad code on your pages there's no need to replace it with this code
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock