Two seat helicopter build.

The lead/lag adjustment on a two-bladed helicopter is for assuring the rotor system can be balanced (180 degrees apart, nominally). Otherwise, the resulting imbalance, will drive you crazy, and wear out parts prematurely, and can be dangerous.

Visualize a string pulled taught from the outboard tip of one blade, through the "center" of the rotor shaft and pulled to the outboard end of the other blade. If the blades are too far to one side of that string or the other (not 180 degrees apart), an imbalance will occur. Further, there needs to be an adjustment mechanism because it's not only the geometric requirement of the two blades needing to be 180 degrees apart (nominally), but very small changes in weight of one blade or the other, will affect the this balance, such as uneven paint wear on the end of a blade vs the other.

A fully articulated rotor hub (three blades or more) is vastly more complex. If the imbalance described above occurs on a fully articulated hub the whole ship can self destruct in a matter of seconds. Do a Google search on "helicopter ground resonance".

With gyrocopters... we take the blades apart when we trailer to a 'gathering' (fly-in).
When one puts the blades back together (attach each blade to the hub)... we always 'string' them... similar to above.
This is very critical... otherwise there will be vibrations enough to tear something apart...
And we now one cannot 'park it on a cloud' and fix it.
 
Might want to plan for a support bearing at the far end of your drive arrangement

That's a good point to make :). A little while back, I had calculated what kind of moment force the end of the crankshaft should expect to see with the diameter of pulley sheave I was thinking about hanging off of the end. With the power that I wanted to put through it, it would have ended up being around 600lbs. My expectation would have been that the engine could ultimately handle that moment load imposed on the crank, but it would make for sloppy work on my part to know those figures and do nothing about it. I ended up deciding that it was important enough to make a triangular brace that contained a bearing block and a sealed ball bearing that would accept a boss from the pulley sheave.
 
Speaking of shafts breaking, the Rotorway helicopter had an issue with this for some years on the secondary unit shaft. Basically this is a "jack shaft" between the engine and the main rotor shaft. This secondary unit contained the free-running clutch, handled the gear reduction (4200 rpm engine to 520 rpm rotor) and had extra sheaves for accessories (alternator, fan, etc).
The top end of this secondary shaft would snap off in flight requiring an emergency auto-rotation. This happened to a lot of guys for awhile. Happened to me. I landed safely and without injury, but suffered damage to the ship. Mine, in 2001, was one of the last failures as far as I know.
The main issue was bending fatigue and fretting corrosion between the shaft and it's top bearing due to the cantilevered load, eventually developing into a crack. The fix was to change the shaft metallurgy, shaft diameter from 30mm to 35mmm and add some belt tension compliance on the final drive cog belt.
Caused a lot of emergency auto-rotations and wrecked ships, but no fatalities and few or no injuries as far as I know. This helicopter auto's beautifully, and the asymetric rotor blades will produce lift at well under 100% flight rpm.
The shaft failure hasn't happened in 15 years or better.
 
the final drive cog belt

So, I take it you had a Pro Drive cog belt system? I heard that the only helicopters that were snapping off their shafts were the ones equipped with Pro drive cog belts. It was said that the Pro Drive system imparted more moment force on the shafts than the triple chain systems did.

It's likely that all those 30mm shafts would have been saved if some extra framing that housed a support bearing was used on the top side of the shafts. I believe the moment load on the shafts with Pro Drive was somewhere around 2600lbs? That's a whole lot.

My drive system is not at all like a Rotorway. More like a R22 I suppose. Just not with that solenoid belt tension system.
 
With the gyro's... we used to use 3" cog belts...
BTW: If you tell a supply house it is for aviation, they will not sell it to you.

The problem with wide cog belts... is they literally shrink when they get hot... not expand.
So when it warms up, it tightens and puts pressure on the crankshaft.

Might want to do some research and calculations on this...
The 'work around' the gyro guys did... was to mount it 'loose', then start the engine and let it 'warm up' for a LONG time!

If it were me... I would look at a different drive... :)
 
If it were me I would use a surplus APU and drive it into a transmission.
 
Have you looked into the Solar T62 or similar? Once you operate a turbine, you will never go back to piston.
 
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