Very few PM 12x36T Videos...

M

Mr Mike

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If all goes well, ill have my PM-12x36T on its stand & set up this summer ( lol its still on the pallet ). I figured now would be a good time to start watching some videos for it and, to my surprise, there are very few videos out there.

I found three, 2 of them were for people getting their lathe delivered, and 1 had some set up info about it... I found no other relevant Reviews, Use or Set-Up for it.

Wonder why there are so few videos for this lathe...?
 
The 1236T is a relatively new model, which is why you see so little video content for it. Setup and use should be identical to the PM-1340GT, and there is plenty in the archives here about that machine.
 
I don’t do videos, but I have some posts on my 1236T, what in particular are you looking for?
 
Ischgl99 said:
I don’t do videos, but I have some posts on my 1236T, what in particular are you looking for?
Click to expand...

I am getting close to finishing my shed project , and I am hoping to be done in the next few weekends so can move stuff out of the garage and make room for the lathe.

Since my end game is getting close, I thought Id watch as many "Best Practice" & "tips & tricks" setup videos for this particular lathe as I can, to be fully prepared.

I will check your posts for sure - thanks, Is there anything you can think of that you would do different now compared to then...? for instance cleaning all the Cosmoline from the lathe - thinking back how you did that, would you change anything... I'd appreciate any tips and tricks such as clean it before putting it on the stand and or I used product Y and paper towels but should have used product X and a fine steel wool to clean it, Those kind of tips are what I am particularly looking for before I start setting up my lathe...

I am also very concerned about proper break in procedures for this specific lathe since it has un-hardened gears.
Thanks for reading have great rest of your day...

Only thing standing between me and setting up this lathe, is just a few weekends away.
Roof.png
 
Can’t provide videos or specific info on the model. But, I do have a Taiwan built 12x36 and think it’s just about the perfect size for a hobby shop.

I suspect many of your questions will be answered once you start setting it up. If not, that’s what we’re all here for….

John
 
I would definitely clean it as good as you can before placing it on the stand. You will be able to get around it easier, so you are more likely to do a better job. I used WD40 and paper towels. I used to work for a German machinery manufacturer, they would hit the roof if they saw someone using steel wool or Scotch Bright pads on machined surfaces, so that is never used on my machines. The WD40 works, but with lots of elbow grease, there might be something better, but that is what I had.

Once installed on the stand, take your time and check alignment and get everything dialed in before using it, if you don’t do it right away, you might waste time trying to figure out why something isn’t working as you expected.

Get a supply of the lubricants you will need, if you have them on hand, you are more likely to do the maintenance when needed instead of pushing it off. You need to change the headstock oil after I think 10 hours, don’t delay that. You will likely have some metal particles in the headstock you want to clean out, that is normal. Take the top off and clean everything really well. Now is the time to add a drain valve if that is something you want, and putting a magnet in the bottom of the sump would be helpful to collect the metal particles so they don’t float around with the oil.

You can add an hour meter to your control panel to help keep track of the run hours, but in a hobby installation, doing the maintenance on a regular basis should be good enough. I bought hour meters for my lathe and mill and still haven’t installed them.

Get an oil can for lubricating the quick change gearbox, you will need to squirt oil in there frequently. I have another oil can with way oil for lubricating the sliding surfaces via the ball detents on the cross slide and leadscrew bracket. The tailstock has one or two as well.

That’s all I can think of right now, enjoy your machine!
 
Ischgl99 said:
I would definitely clean it as good as you can before placing it on the stand. You will be able to get around it easier, so you are more likely to do a better job. I used WD40 and paper towels. I used to work for a German machinery manufacturer, they would hit the roof if they saw someone using steel wool or Scotch Bright pads on machined surfaces, so that is never used on my machines. The WD40 works, but with lots of elbow grease, there might be something better, but that is what I had.

Once installed on the stand, take your time and check alignment and get everything dialed in before using it, if you don’t do it right away, you might waste time trying to figure out why something isn’t working as you expected.
Click to expand...
Good reminder... get alignment stuff back & find good tailstock alignment bar - check.

Ischgl99 said:
Get a supply of the lubricants you will need, if you have them on hand, you are more likely to do the maintenance when needed instead of pushing it off. You need to change the headstock oil after I think 10 hours, don’t delay that. You will likely have some metal particles in the headstock you want to clean out, that is normal. Take the top off and clean everything really well. Now is the time to add a drain valve if that is something you want, and putting a magnet in the bottom of the sump would be helpful to collect the metal particles so they don’t float around with the oil.
Click to expand...
Couple gallons of spare fluids bought and shipped with the lathe, all sealed still - ill call PM see if there is a shelf life after holiday week end.

Drain Valve... I viewed Mr Bests post on that last year - Good call, I should tackle it during the break in period too.

Excellent tip - Magnet for head stock to capture floaters... do this before even starting the machine up - Thank You.

Ischgl99 said:
You can add an hour meter to your control panel to help keep track of the run hours, but in a hobby installation, doing the maintenance on a regular basis should be good enough. I bought hour meters for my lathe and mill and still haven’t installed them.

Get an oil can for lubricating the quick change gearbox, you will need to squirt oil in there frequently. I have another oil can with way oil for lubricating the sliding surfaces via the ball detents on the cross slide and leadscrew bracket. The tailstock has one or two as well.
Click to expand...
Oil Cans - check.
Well you know what they say about Hour Meters, if your not going to use them - give them to a friend who will :)

I did see a great hack post on here, where someone used a little baffle with holes drilled so oil absolutely drops on each of the gears... Need to do this down the road for sure.

NewOiler1.jpg
Ischgl99 said:
That’s all I can think of right now, enjoy your machine!
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Perfect thank you..!
If you think of any thing else please let me know.
 
Mr Mike said:
Well you know what they say about Hour Meters, if your not going to use them - give them to a friend who will :)
Click to expand...
LOL They are still on my to-do list, so they are not available yet!

David Best did an oil manifold, not sure if that is the one you saw. It looks like it would work well. I went a different route and put wicks in each hole that slowly drips the oil on the gears. It seems to be working. I didn’t put wicks in the holes that feed the bearings, those were left open. One thing I would like to add is a drip pan to catch the oil from the gearbox so it doesn’t make a mess of the chip pan.

The machine comes with oil in the headstock, so you might want to use that for a few hours and then change it out and install the magnet. No sense wasting new oil when you have to drain it soon anyway.
 
Ischgl99 said:
LOL They are still on my to-do list, so they are not available yet!

David Best did an oil manifold, not sure if that is the one you saw. It looks like it would work well. I went a different route and put wicks in each hole that slowly drips the oil on the gears. It seems to be working. I didn’t put wicks in the holes that feed the bearings, those were left open. One thing I would like to add is a drip pan to catch the oil from the gearbox so it doesn’t make a mess of the chip pan.

The machine comes with oil in the headstock, so you might want to use that for a few hours and then change it out and install the magnet. No sense wasting new oil when you have to drain it soon anyway.
Click to expand...
You mean like this? LOL

36658826756_8dcb9b52f2_c.jpg


Single-shot. oiler manifold is documented here:

flic.kr

Single-Shot Oiler for PM1340 Lathe

I decided to replace the factory supplied oil distribution drip tray. Click on photo for descriptions.
flic.kr flic.kr

I also love that Reilang oil squirt-can. Truly industrial quality.
 
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