W1 Lathe Chuck Keys - Heat Treat

[JRT]

Hey guys, I've done a load of reading and I THINK I have the process figured out. These little chuck keys are for my old Atlas 618 and made from 1/2 W1 rod if that helpfull. The process I've come to goes about like this:

1. Clean all potential oils off
2. Heat about 1 1/2" of the business end to magnetic and hold for a few minutes.
3. Dip in can of water
4. Clean all potential oils off and bring back to shinny silver finish
5. Put in oven at about 300-400 degrees for about 10 mins

Does this all sound correct? i've read so much and got some varying information. This all seems about right from my knowledge. Anyone have advise or disagree with anything here? I'd appreciate it. I'm really proud of these and want them to function for years to come.

Thanks everyone,
-John

 

[benmychree]

2. heat to Non magnetic

5. 3-400 draw might end up being brittle, I'd shoot for 5 - 600; if the steel was to be a lower carbon content or an alloy such as 8620, it could be casehardened and left on the harder side.

 

[benmychree]

Another option would be to make it out of 4140 HT, then no worries about heat treatment and the product would last as long as you are going to need it.

 

[JRT]

Another option would be to make it out of 4140 HT, then no worries about heat treatment and the product would last as long as you are going to need it.

 

[JRT]

Thanks guys. I already made the from W1 but thanks for the suggestion, maybe next time. Didn’t even know that was an option.

I did mean non-magnetic.

Will I gain anything from having someone with heat treat oven do it? I guess that whole thing would be treated, not just the chuck end.

 

[GT-6 Racer]

I use this app.

‎Heat Treater's Guide Companion

‎The Heat Treater’s Guide Companion, created by ASM International and the ASM Heat Treating Society, provides ready reference data on more than 430 steel, aluminum, and magnesium alloys. Content includes chemical composition, similar U.S. and foreign alloys, characteristics, and recommended heat...

apps.apple.com

lots of great information.

 

[MrWhoopee]

Thanks guys. I already made the from W1 but thanks for the suggestion, maybe next time. Didn’t even know that was an option.

I did mean non-magnetic.

Will I gain anything from having someone with heat treat oven do it? I guess that whole thing would be treated, not just the chuck end.

No need to harden the whole thing. Probably best to draw it back as @benmychree suggested, maybe even more. Better to have the chuck key wear than damage the pinion in the chuck.

 

[G-ManBart]

W1 actually quenches nicely in oil (almost any oil...I use canola oil so it smells like french fries) and that would actually be better for your application. Water or brine is the normal method to get the maximum hardness, but that isn't what you want since you're going to temper them anyway.

Heat to non-magnetic (no need for an extended period of time on something so small), quench in oil. Clean it until it's shiny, heat it again with the flame an inch or so back from the end and let the heat travel towards the tip. You'll see the colors develop...yellow, straw, nearly orange, orange, red, light purple, etc. I'd shoot for red moving towards purple. That's about what you want for a chisel or a punch and in the 500-525* ballpark. They should last a lifetime like that.

 

[JRT]

Thanks all, really appreciate it. I’ll check that app out. Still unsure if I’m going to try it myself or have the awesome guy with an oven do it.

Will a MAP gas torch do it or am I better off using my Oxy Ace torch? Much rather use the MAP has if it will het hot enough.

Also, do I need to worry about warpage on any of this? There are drilled and tapped 5mm x .80 holes for set screws in the butt-end for after I press the handles in. I’d hate to not be able to get the set screws in. I’m planning on putting the handles in the freezer for a day before I do it in hopes that it helps a little.

Here’s a picture of them for size reference or in case anyone is interested…

 

[benmychree]

A l;ot of chuck key handles are straight knurled in the center and just pressed into a reamed hole in the shank of the key, there is no good reason to harden the whole length of the shank, just harden the end.