WalkerTurner problem

[chipmunk]

I have a 1924 (the cross slide and tailstock were cast in 1924) Walker-Turner wood/metal turning lathe. Regardless the pressure I put on the tailstock locking lever, I can still turn the tailstock quill.
Does anyone know how to fix the problem so I can lock the quill?

 

[Tony Wells]

I'd expect there to be a key and keyway involved in the bore of the tailstock and the tailstock ram. If so, the key must be absent. An easy fix. If there is no key or keyway, look for a pin and slot to guide the ram. I have no firsthand knowledge or that model, but it's a common practice. Have any pictures of the bore of the tailstock and/or ram?

 

[chipmunk]

I'd expect there to be a key and keyway involved in the bore of the tailstock and the tailstock ram. If so, the key must be absent. An easy fix. If there is no key or keyway, look for a pin and slot to guide the ram. I have no firsthand knowledge or that model, but it's a common practice. Have any pictures of the bore of the tailstock and/or ram?

Yes, there is a key and keyway on the bottom of the quill, but that simply guides the quill during the in and out movements by turning the handle.
The problem is that when I tighten the locking lever (in the last photo) it does not lock the quill. It gets more difficult to turn the handle but it does not lock it completely. On the left side of the (inside) quill sleeve there is an opening where I would expect the locking lever to make contact with the quill itself, but it does not. I know it doesn’t because I took the quill out and then looked inside the sleeve while turning the locking lever all the way home and still can not see the threads on the locking lever.

 

[Tony Wells]

I'm sorry. I misunderstood. I thought the entire ram was turning. Some tailstocks rely on the flex that is allowed by the sawcut where the locking screw/lever tightened, squeezing the diameter down against the quill. Others use a cylindrical piece that is brought to bear against the side of the quill that is milled at an angle where it hits the quill. When the thread is tightened, this draws the lock cylinder against the quill, locking it in place.

It's certainly possible that with sufficient wear, the quill is simply not being gripped tightly enough. It's not as though there is a tremendous force that pushes back against the quill so to try to unscrew it. Unless it is pretty easy to turn, I wouldn't worry a lot about it.

 

[chipmunk]

It looks like the quill wedge is already below the surface of the TS surface.
It only takes the quill spinning a few times to wear it out since it should be brass but it may be lead on a machine of that vintage.
I would pull the wedge out and grind the bottom about an 1/8. Bet that fixes it.

Geno

I think you are correct about the wedge. But I think it is missing completely. The quill on this machine has never been spun because the key which was cast into the quill guide is extant and the keyway on the quill is unmolested. I think the wedge was originally inserted in a “friction fit” sleeve which was pressed into the tailstock then the locking lever screwed into that sleeve.
I’ll try later tonight to take some photos with a macro lens of the key, keyway and the wedge hole if possible.

 

[chipmunk]

Well my problem is solved. I hope I can explain what I did to fix it.
Photo number one shows the key in the quill sleeve, photo number two shows the quill and its keyway.
Photo number three shows the hole in the tailstock as it opens into the quill sleeve at about 10 O Clock.
After thinking about what papaseven said, I thought that perhaps the wedge was really inside the tailstock but so worn that it no longer made contact with the quill regardless the amount of pressure applied.
I laid the tailstock on it’s side and inserted the crooked pick (photo number seven) into the hole in the quill sleeve and then griped its shank with a pliers and twisted it clockwise. To my amazement the locking lever sleeve (which I assumed was a press fit) slowly rose from its position in the tailstock.
Once removed one can see that the locking lever sleeve itself is what locks the quill and over the last 98 years it has become so worn it no longer made contact with the quill (Photo number four)
Photo number five is the top of the tailstock where the locking lever sleeve is inserted.
So to correct the problem I just inserted the quill into its sleeve then inserted the locking lever sleeve but rotating it to a new surface which makes the locking lever stand slightly proud (photo number six)
I don’t know if this is the correct way to fix the problem or not, but I can now lock the quill and won’t have to worry about a chunk of Elm whacking me in my face.
Thanks for the help everyone, I appreciate it. By the way this lathe has some odd bearings which I understand are nearly impossible to get now days. Fortunately the previous owner was thinking ahead and purchased several extra bearings which are still wrapped in their original greasy paper.