Before I commence making something, does anyone know if there is such a thing as a wedge set for MT3 arbor removal? Specifically I have a drill chuck arbor that really likes to stick in the tail stock. Its not the end of the world to remove, but its a PITA. I have to remove the crank handle, cross pin, slide out the quill barrel from the TS casting & then tap it out with rod & hammer. (I could do it in the lathe too but I don't want alter alignment or put undo stress on the quill clamping assembly).
I use to think this occurred because the screw ejector was bottoming out before it could eject, but I measured & tested, this is not the case. In fact this arbor has a tang extension so has added length. I can see the arbor physically displaced out of the quill if its only gently inserted in the socket. So the issue is the leadscrew cant overcome the friction once its stuck. Both the arbor OD and socket ID are in very nice condition, maybe too nice they stick together. I remember blueing it once upon & it had a really good mating pattern. First I thought maybe some swarf particle was stuck in there. Then it happened again so I've been using a light oil film. That helped but it stuck again. Maybe I should be using a light smear of anti-seize? I'm not doing anything heavy duty, just normal use.
Anyways onto wedges. The MT3 big end is about 0.940, but that doesn't match any of the typical drill chuck wedges in the numbered series 1,2,3 or 6 that I can tell. I figure I could get a wedge set between the back side of the chuck body & front lip of the quill barrel. Because I don't see anything commercially available, I'm guessing this just isn't a common issue? How would one remove a big MT3 ended drill fro example if the lead screw didn't eject it? is it common to lubricate the mating parts?
I use to think this occurred because the screw ejector was bottoming out before it could eject, but I measured & tested, this is not the case. In fact this arbor has a tang extension so has added length. I can see the arbor physically displaced out of the quill if its only gently inserted in the socket. So the issue is the leadscrew cant overcome the friction once its stuck. Both the arbor OD and socket ID are in very nice condition, maybe too nice they stick together. I remember blueing it once upon & it had a really good mating pattern. First I thought maybe some swarf particle was stuck in there. Then it happened again so I've been using a light oil film. That helped but it stuck again. Maybe I should be using a light smear of anti-seize? I'm not doing anything heavy duty, just normal use.
Anyways onto wedges. The MT3 big end is about 0.940, but that doesn't match any of the typical drill chuck wedges in the numbered series 1,2,3 or 6 that I can tell. I figure I could get a wedge set between the back side of the chuck body & front lip of the quill barrel. Because I don't see anything commercially available, I'm guessing this just isn't a common issue? How would one remove a big MT3 ended drill fro example if the lead screw didn't eject it? is it common to lubricate the mating parts?