Westinghouse Type G2 Refurb

Monk

Monk

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H-M Supporter Gold Member
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Mar 10, 2012
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I spent most of my last two weekends working on this refurbishing project. It started with a Westinghouse Type G 2 compressor that was given me by my neighbor and good friend, Jim 2 or 3 years ago. A nice gift, but a little rough. The picture here shows it just after my Dad (union electrician for 40 plus years) wired it for 220.

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I started by taking it apart and sanding and priming everything.

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Then I painted everything the same color as my Bridgeport (so I had to brush paint everything), polished up all the brass and copper pieces and re-assembled.

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Then I shortened (I made it too tall) the mounting assembly I made for the Harbor Freight hose spool, painted and bolted it up. The inner spool was painted a bright yellow, so I took it all apart and repainted it. I turned a couple 5/8ths brass bushings for the new wheels and bolted everything up today. I had already made a bracket and added the swivel caster in front so I don't have to lift it to drag it around.

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The badge on the tank says it's a 1978. For an almost 40 year old compressor, it runs great and looks pretty good!
 
It looks great but two things bother me.
I have a Sears Craftsman compressor from about the same vintage and it looks exactly the same except for the pump and the motor. Your pump looks like a much more capable unit than my little Craftsman. What is the max PSI of your set up? What concerns me is that someone may have married a 175 PSI pump/motor/switch to a 125 PSI (like my Craftsman) intended tank. Second, you really should have that tank hydro-tested before putting it into service. After all, it's about 40 years old and a light duty unit when new.
 
That looks really great! Nice work.
What happens when these tanks fail? Do they get a hole and leak or fail catastrophically? How do you know what the safe service life of your tank is? Easy to say "get it hydrotested" but in the real world of home shops how often does that occur?
R
 
Eddyde said:
When they go they can easily kill anyone nearby:
https://www.google.com/search?q=air+compressor+tank+failure&safe=off&espv=2&biw=1271&bih=702&tbm=iscih&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0CCQQsARqFQoTCOuh_NW75scCFYJ7PgodkmcL9A
Click to expand...
I forgot to mention is that prior to his giving it to me, it had seen years of service as Jim was a contractor. It's not been sitting outside unused. The rust seemed to be surface rust with little penetration (not much rust on the other side at all, and I've been using it weekly since I replaced my even older Dayton compressor (in a lot better shape) with it. The badge on the side of the tank said that it was sold by Helben Manufacturing in Harrison, Ohio. Jim is not much of a cobbler, so I'm pretty sure it came from the manufacturer with the components as they are (you made a very good point extropic). The motor is a 1750 rpm Leeson so it's running a lot slower and quieter than the 3400 rpm Dayton compressor I replaced. It always seems to shut off at about 120 psi (it does have a newer regulator ), so I'm not worried about blowing myself up just yet. Really the rust didn't look bad enough to be concerned, I just wanted it to look as nice as the old Dayton and match the paint on the Bridgeport. Thank you all for your input, though, and Eddyde you've given ammunition to my desire for a bigger upright.
 
It is the rust on the inside of the tank thats the problem, Hydrostatic testing is the best way to ensure the tank is safe. Most compressor shops can do the test, it usually isn't very expensive.
Here in NYC you actually are required to have a license (called a "Certificate of Fitness") to legally operate an air compressor. The compressor needs to be hydro tested every 5 years.
Be safe
Eddy
 
I know I have to do that with the 30 gallon tank I use for the propane tank (off an Airstream travel trailer) I use for the heater in my garage. Didn't know about the need on the compressor, though. Maybe that's the case here in Ohio, as well. My old compressor had a glass moisture separator/reservoir in line at the output end of the tank that was supposed to eliminate the internal moisture. This one just has a drain-pressure release at the front bottom of the tank that I think is supposed to be opened and blow the moisture out with the released pressure in the tank when not in use. Thanks for the heads up. You mention a "compressor shop". Any idea where I might find one to do the test? Do I have to tear it back down, or can they test it while assembled, or do they have to submerge the tank as the "hydro" implies. Are the shops connected to the folks who supply welding supplies and gas? Bet you weren't expecting all these questions. :) Thanks, again

Monk
 
There should be a local compressor shop that services compressors in your area. Or try Google search for "hydro test air tank" in your zip code. The test is done by filling the tank completely with water and pressurizing it to usually 2x normal working pressure. Water cannot be compressed so if the tank bursts there is no stored energy, thus no violent explosion. I used to have 2, 80 gal air tanks, so the technician would come to the shop, the guy would stand right next to the tanks while doing the test.
Ask as many questions as you have, that's what this great site is all about.
 
Thanks again, Eddy. I'm going to check with the guys at the propane gas distributor (they do the tests on those cylinders, and I'll bet it's the same). My large aluminum propane tank is due for a check. And yes, I've never got anything but good and well intended info on this forum.
 
You guys are great. That is real meaningful information. I am just an old electronics man and would not have thought of that. Thanks!


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