What is the correct way to remove a stubborn 3 jaw chuck 2-1/4 by 8 tpi ?

[ome]

Hi guys,
it has already happened once, so i better find the fix.
What is the safest way as to not damage the chuck, spindle, ways.....
to remove a 6 inch 3 jaw plain back threaded buck chuck ?
Thanks,
jon

 

[pestilence]

So far I've gotten by with a slap on the chuck key or a piece of wood between the jaws but the best way is probably to chuck a piece of hex stock and put a wrench on that. I'm a newbie though.

 

[ome]

Thanks, from one newbie to another, that seems like an excellent idea. I find it odd that there is no spindle lock, and even in back gears, i am able to get the gears to move, when i did not want any movement.
Hopefully one of the many great machinists will enlighten this topic.
Thanks,
Jon

 

[pestilence]

Oh I have a Logan too. You can lock the spindle easily. You just need to pull out the back gear knob but leave the pin in the bull gear engaged to lock up the spindle. Make sure you put the back gear knob back in again before you start it up or you'll have broken back gear teeth if the belt doesn't slip.

 

[itsme_Bernie]

I had this exact thing happen a few months ago with a backplate alone and no chuck, on a 2-1/4 8 spindle. The backplate had voids which caused the cut to bang. So I put a little drag on the outside of the plate to reduce the bang, and save the backgears. THIS got the back plate on good and tight!! Hah hah! Lesson learned.

I used an old leather weight belt and a two-foot bar and made a huge strap wrench. I then ran the machine slow, backwards, in backgear. I arranged the bar and belt to grip the backplate, but fall apart if I let go or pulled the bar to the side, if something went wrong.

BUT- Easiest solution with a complete chuck is to lock up the backgear, grab a long bar sideways in the front if the chuck and give SLOW, steady pressure. Then you shouldn't bust a tooth.


Bernie

 

[Splat]

Some folks like to jar the chuck with force to get it to move. I don't personally like that. This is how I got mine off and might be the safest way to do it without harming any gears, etc...

Lay a board right under the chuck to cover and protect the bedways, then spin the chuck so a jaw is in the 3-o'clock position. Put a piece of 2x4 between the jaw and the wood covering the bedways. Make a long wrench with the appropriately sized hole for the spindle. Put your wooden wrench onto the left-most end of the spindle and tighten up the bolts on it. Standing in front of lathe you now pull up on the wooden wrench. The only thing to watch is if you have a lever collet closer assembly then you should not clamp onto the area on the spindle where the collet closer engages. The great thing about this method is no broken back gear teeth, no heat, nor any hammering. Just easily and smoothly leverage the stuck chuck off.

 

[richl]

I have a d1-4 spindle and adapter plate... mine gets stuck on pretty good, luckily a couple of light hits from a large rubber hammer has been working... you guys are scaring the hell otta me with some of the things you are doing :whiteflag:

)rich

 

[gmcken]

South Bend Lathe group has several good articles on removing stuck chucks. Its better to read than to break a gear tooth.

 

[itsme_Bernie]

I have a d1-4 spindle and adapter plate... mine gets stuck on pretty good, luckily a couple of light hits from a large rubber hammer has been working... you guys are scaring the hell otta me with some of the things you are doing :whiteflag:

)rich

Hey Rich!

Are you lubing the spindle and chuck before mounting the chuck? That will help remove it.


Bernie

 

[itsme_Bernie]

I have a d1-4 spindle and adapter plate... mine gets stuck on pretty good, luckily a couple of light hits from a large rubber hammer has been working... you guys are scaring the hell otta me with some of the things you are doing :whiteflag:

)rich

Hey Rich!

Are you lubing the spindle and chuck before mounting the chuck? That will help remove it.

Nothing wrong with a rubber mallet though

Bernie