What R8 drill chuck should I get?

Denisj

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Hi all
Dusting off the HF 6x26 mill
I sold my mini drill press and want to get a drill chuck with the R8 to use this mill as an oversized hole puncher. I occasionally drill 1/2 to 5/8 holes so a chuck that can take that and more would be ideal. I want to try to save money and avoid having a bunch of tooling I’ll never use.
I’m OK with buying good stuff..I plan to keep it when I step up to a bigger machine
Searching eBay I found chucks in the 5/8 to 3/4 size from $19 to $350
Whoa the choices

A little help? USA made? Not a clue what’s good or bad.

Thank you!


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mikey

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If you plan to use large drills, a US-made Jacobs Ball Bearing Super Chuck would be good. A 16N has a 5/8" capacity, while a 14N goes up to 1/2". Here is one in nice condition that the seller says is made in the US. The ones on sale in most supply houses today are made in China and are not the same as this one. The jaws on this one are in very good condition and the seller is even taking offers.

You can buy an R8 arbor and change out the MT arbor currently in it.

Super Chucks last for decades with care. My 20 year old 14N is like new but it is used only on the lathe. I use Albrechts on my drill press and mill.
 

darkzero

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I use a 1/2" Glacern keyless on the mill & and a Bison 5/8" keyless on the lathe. Been happy with them. I use my 14N keyed chucks if I need to power tap mutliple holes or with S&D drills. Although I have a 5/8" chuck for my lathe, I've really never needed the 5/8 capacity. Well I've used a 5/8" endmill in it once but generally I don't use endmills in the tailstock. I only got that Bison 5/8" keyless cause I scored it for $38 shipped brand new. Otherwise 1/2" capacity would be perfectly fine for me.


Here is one in nice condition that the seller says is made in the US.
That one lists the service kit p/n right on the chuck. Those are the ones that use the new/current caged bearing. There is speculation that when they first changed over to the caged bearing that the early ones were still made in the US. These early ones that use the caged bearing (SVC kit listed on them) said "Jacobs USA" on them but some speculate they weren't actually made in the USA, just indicating that Jacobs is a USA company. Then there are those who say all the ones that lists the service kit number on them are all made overseas. Soon after they stopped putting Jacobs USA on them. If you buy one today it will just say Jacobs, no USA. May not matter much to some, just saying.

All 3 of my 14Ns say Made in Hartford Conn on them. They're getting harder find these days or cost a lot. This reminds me, I have an 18N that I need to rebuild but I may never use it, too big for my needs.
 

darkzero

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Oh for brands, not sure if there are still quality drill chucks made in the USA. We already talked about Jacobs which sadly are no longer made in the US. Jacobs Super Ball Bearing chucks are expensive new & I could never justify paying that much for one new. Used would be best if buying Jacobs. I have a small keyless Jacobs that is made in Italy.

Albrecht is pretty much the best for keyless chucks, again expensive if purchasing new but they are worth it. I seem to always miss out on the great deals on them second hand, maybe someday but I haven't searched in a while.

Llambrich makes very nice quality chucks. Made in Spain. I believe some older Jacobs keyless chucks were made by them. Many Accupro (MSC brand) chucks are made by Llambrich too & they also have Jacobs Super BB knock offs. But Accupro/Llambrich have economy models too. I have an economy Accupro/Llambrich on my cheap Craftsman drill press.

Rohm also makes nice chucks but I know they have an economy line also. I forget which were which though.

Then there's Yukiwa Seiko. They are said to make high quality chucks & I was looking to buy one back when I wanted to buy a Llambrich keyless. But I couldn't find much info on them, don't know anyone who's had one or where to even buy one (at the time). I had a feeling they were probably very expensive & decided that what I had was perfectly fine for me. I believe they make the chucks found on Makitas but can't base the quality of a drill chuck mfg based on the chucks they make for cordless drills.
 

mikey

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Rohm makes two keyless chucks, the high end Spiro and the economy Supra. I have two Supras and they are very accurate. Not sure I would spend the money on a Spiro unless I got an insane deal. I prefer Albrechts, of which I currently own 5, I think. Yep, just 5 left in my shop.
 

mikey

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All 3 of my 14Ns say Made in Hartford Conn on them. They're getting harder find these days or cost a lot. This reminds me, I have an 18N that I need to rebuild but I may never use it, too big for my needs.
Yeah, the good US made ones were engraved with the Hartford thing on them. Mine has that, too. Unfortunately, the ebay one I linked to doesn't show if that is on the chuck or not. Might ask before buying.
 

darkzero

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Yeah, the good US made ones were engraved with the Hartford thing on them. Mine has that, too. Unfortunately, the ebay one I linked to doesn't show if that is on the chuck or not. Might ask before buying.
Yeah if it has the SVC Kit P/N directly on the chuck, it wasn't made in Hartford. All the older Hartford ones used the individual ball bearings with races, way before the caged bearing came out.
 

mmcmdl

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Once you figure out what you want , shoot me a message . I have them all covered . :big grin:
 

MrWhoopee

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As usual, I'm the contrarian.
Get a straight shank chuck (3/4" shank) and cut the shank to about 1/2 length. Much easier to get in and out of the spindle.
Do not hold S&D (reduced shank) drills in a chuck, hold them in a collet. Reduces the likelihood of damage to both chuck and drill.
 

mmcmdl

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In the very near future , the ship is going to hit the fan , so to speak . I'm in the process of figuring out my last move in the machining arena . I'm loaded up with stuff and can't even get to it , but as soon as this grass cuts me a break it's all going other than the basics . :)
 

Denisj

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I'm not understanding..did you mean a chuck that has a straight arbor?
As usual, I'm the contrarian.
Get a straight shank chuck (3/4" shank) and cut the shank to about 1/2 length. Much easier to get in and out of the spindle.
Do not hold S&D (reduced shank) drills in a chuck, hold them in a collet. Reduces the likelihood of damage to both chuck and drill.
 

Denisj

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This is great information guys. I suspected there was little left in the states.
 

BGHansen

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I have several Jacobs chucks, maybe 3 or 4 ball bearing super ones and one Albrecht with an R-8 collet. Also have a number of cheaper Jacobs chucks with straight arbor. Like Mr. Whoopee mentioned above, they are convenient on (for me) on the Bridgeport which usually has a ER-32 collet chuck on it. If the job is going to use a 1/2" end mill which takes a 1/2" collet, I use the Jacobs chuck with a 1/2" straight shank (have chucks with 3/8" and 5/8" straight arbors also). It saves from having to change ER collets and/or loosen/tighten the drawbar on the BP.

I also have a Jet JVM-830 mill where the top of the spindle is at about 6'. It's a really easy reach so it has R-8 collets exclusively on it. I have the Albrecht and a Super chuck at this mill, but usually use a keyed import chuck because it has better run out than either of the other two chucks.

My lathes have Jacobs ball bearing Super chucks too, but I usually use 1/2" capacity keyless import chucks purchased from All Industrial Tool Supply. These both have MT3 arbors, All Industrial has 1/2" keyless chucks on eBay with an R-8 arbor for about $32 shipped.

Bruce
 

mickri

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I am going to throw out another option. I went to an ER32 system for my mill/drill and lathe. I have an ER32/R8 adapter that lives in the mill/drill. I have an ER32/MT2 adapter that I use in the tailstock on the lathe and I made an ER32 chuck that fits on the headstock of the lathe. It is slower to use then a drill chuck if your are changing drills all the time. But it is much more compact than a drill chuck and can be used with drills or end mills. I have not had to move the head on the mill/drill when changing tooling on the projects that I have done so far. The key to ease of use is to have 3 or 4 ER32 nuts with the different collets in them that you need for the project you are working on. I have 4. If I am just drilling holes I use my drill press.
 

ThinWoodsman

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At the beginning of the year I bought an R8 shank chuck from Precision Matthews and an MT3 shank chuck from Glacern. Both about the same price, and the same (good) quality. They do up to 5/8, run about a hundred bucks a pop. No complaints, though they are both keyless chucks which some people do not prefer.
 

mickri

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Martik777 I went with the ER32 because of the spindle bore on the lathe. The largest ER32 collet is just larger than the spindle bore on my lathe.
 

Titanium Knurler

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Albrecht’s keyless chucks are very nicely made but pricey; when used correctlythey work great. I have a 5/8” R8 for my mill and 1/2” MT3 with diamond coated jaws for my lathe. But just a word of caution, I ruined my 5/8” R8 Albrecht by using a 2”hole saw. It locked and wouldn’t release. I used a strap wrench and finally got it to release but the run out was visible afterwards. I sent it to Albrecht(Royal) and I was told that the repair would be several hundred dollars and that they do not recommend using a drill or other device larger than the stated size of the chuck. I was fortunate, they sent me a new replacement at no charge.

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amsoilman

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Good to know. I have a 5/8” for the mill and a 1/2” for the old Avey drill press. Bought each for a hundred bucks, smooth as silk.
 

mikey

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But just a word of caution, I ruined my 5/8” R8 Albrecht by using a 2”hole saw. It locked and wouldn’t release. I used a strap wrench and finally got it to release but the run out was visible afterwards. I sent it to Albrecht(Royal) and I was told that the repair would be several hundred dollars and that they do not recommend using a drill or other device larger than the stated size of the chuck. I was fortunate, they sent me a new replacement at no charge.
Albrecht is one of the few companies nowadays that treats their customers with respect. Replacing a chuck that was damaged due to abuse just doesn't happen with other companies. Glad Albrecht continues that practice.
 

Denisj

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OK

Rohm Supra 5/8 keyless new $120 - Their website says these are for cordless drill applications, but comes mounted on a R8. Too light duty?

Shars? I found a $45 used 1/2 keyless


I found Jacobs "Made in the United States of America" 34B that looks very old, it is frozen but has no rust on it for free. Soaking in solvent now, but it has a threaded input..I am thinking a 5/8"-16tpi? Is this old dog worth fixing? Should I be concerned with the arbor needed to use it?

Thanks again!
I am not attached to the keyless idea..just want a good quality unit.
 

Denisj

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I have never used a chuck on my mill, ER25 collets handle everything I need and less obstruction than the larger ER32
I don't have a clue how to sort this out. I understand how they work...I assume I would need a holder?
..and it seems insanely expensive just quickly searching
 

mmcmdl

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When you make up your mind , shoot me a pm as I said in a previous post . I think I have 50 chucks in the basement , but I won't steer you as to what you want or need . ;)
 

ThinWoodsman

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I understand how they work...I assume I would need a holder?
..and it seems insanely expensive just quickly searching
Yeah you would need an ER collet chuck and then all the collets. Unless you stick to just one or two drill sizes, you're going to need a pretty large set of collets. I picked up the R8 chuck after the first time I needed to chuck a drill bit that was between two collet sizes.
 

darkzero

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A threaded drill should be fine. One thing to consider is if you ever need to drill with LH drill bits they can unscrew the chuck. Should be fine as LH drill bits are usually used for broken screw extraction & usually it's light duty drilling but ya never know.

I can understand the guys who use collets for drill bits but I use fractional, letter, & number drills often with the occasional metric too so that's not for me. That's a whole lot of collets to cover for all those sizes. Drilling is also not a high precision operation.
 

Illinoyance

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If you ever plan to use hole saws you definitely want a keyed chuck. Keyless chucks tighten so much with a hole saw that it takes a wrench to release them. They don't work well with left hand drills, either. Backwards rotation tends to loosen them. Ihave keyless chucks, ball bearing keyed chucks and ER collet chucks and use whatever chuck is best for what I am doing.
 

pontiac428

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Shars? I found a $45 used 1/2 keyless

I am not attached to the keyless idea..just want a good quality unit.
I have to say it here that my favorite chuck is my Albrecht, and it's not a close race. Shameless endorsement, I know. It's good you found Shars- I have a R8 integral shank keyless "precision" chuck from Shars that is cheaper than a used Albrecht, and I still smile when I use it. It does the job very well. I'd stay away from Jacobs keyed chucks. Lots of folks may disagree, but I have six Jacobs chucks, including a 1970's unit that I bought NOS in original packaging. None of them are reliable, and they are barely better than the cheapest China chuck. So go for the integrated Shars chuck instead of Jacobs. Sometimes I think people just like Jacobs because that's what their old reliable Craftsman drill presses came with. I doubt their reputation is based on performance.
 

Denisj

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Missed an old Albrecht on ebay
Leaning to the Shars at $55 for a 5/8 keyless new
Rohm?
Johansen?
No hole sawing- cant remember the last time i used one
Drilling mostly..holes in steel and alum brackets for my work. A pilot hile and often 6-12mm holes
Minimal milling with it, but im sure I'll try. I have 3 R8 collets for the only 3 end mills I have.
I'm still super green with a mill and have almost no tooling and less experience.
I never was a huge fan of using a drill press..felt unnecessary when the mill works well. I used my friends BP to work some brackets and had an apifinay...the mill is a drill press.

Feel free to correct me if I'm missing something. The floor space didnt allow another machine and the drill press lost.
 
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