Whats The Secret....

[Stump Fabrication]

To getting the chuck to come off of my 10f TH54? Ive got the back gear engaged with the pin lock, but not sure of:

1. How much force it takes to normally remove the chuck
2. What the best way to "grab" the chuck while removing
3. Left hand thread or right hand thread?

Just looking for some tips/tricks. No idea how long it been on there.

 

[Stump Fabrication]

Never mind....I got it off. Luckily someone before me used a little oil on the threads and there wasnt much effort involved in getting it off.

 

[kd4gij]

Glad you got it off, but using the back gears and pin to lock the spindle is a bad habit to get into as it van damage the pin and back gears. Better to use a piece of wood to hold the bull gear. Or chuck a piece of 2" x 2" x12"or so in the chuck so it is hanging out far enough to hit the bead and rotate the spindle by hand and bump it loose.

 

[wa5cab]

Sorry, but I disagree and so did Atlas. The MOLO lists locking the spindle by engaging back gear without pulling the direct drive pin as the standard way to lock the spindle for removing a chuck. I've used this method for nearly 35 years. I rotate the chuck until the key socket is between 12:00 and 1:00 o'clock, engage back gear, put the chuck key in the socket, grab it with both hands and pull smartly.

However, if I had just bought a lathe and it had a chuck on the spindle that I had never removed before, I would first spray the back of the chuck where the spindle screws into it with penetrating oil (Kroil being preferred) and let it sit for at least an hour. Then I would more than likely rotate the chuck until it had one jaw at 12:00 (3-jaw) or two at 10:30 and 1:30 (4-jaw and engage back gear. Then I would grab a piece of 2x4 about 24" long in the chuck jaws and rap on the end of it with a large shop hammer.

 

[hermetic]

Don't use the chuck key (though everybody does!) because on some chucks the socket for the chuck key is rather thin at the corners, and I have seen more than one split at the corners by doing this. My preferred method is a large adjustable spanner on one of the jaws, A La Doubleboost!

 

[kd4gij]

Well I have read a few times where things broke trying to remove a stubborn using that method.

 

[mzayd3]

I usually put a crescent wrench on one of the jaws


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[38Bill]

I use a 1/4" socket wrench extension. Its long enough to get some good leverage and it fits my chuck socket very well.

 

[Round in circles]

This thread is very interesting interesting .
I'd always been taught to pop the chuck key in and with it at 9 o'clock give it a quick tap with a hide hammer ..I've got posh these days and have used a small rubber camping ten peg hammer for the last year . I've not locked the spindle but have put it to drive without having started the motor ..the resistance to movement of the belt , pulley & motor appears to be a sufficient brake to let me crack the lock up with the a gentle tap .

I think I'll be using the back gear lock method along with a 15 inch long 3/4 inch square mild steel bar across open jaws from now on , as well as the rubber hammer if needed , for I'd be beside myself if I wrecked a 3 or 4 jaw chuck on my beastie .

 

[Andre]

My chuck was very tight when I got my lathe, I was wondering if I ever could get it off. A 12" crescent wrench and a long pipe helped out. Beautiful lathe, also!