Which 4 Jaw D1-5 chuck for chambering?

[mksj]

Not a big fan of turning 1018 CRS, but it is pretty common and inexpensive. Prefer to work with 4130/40 or 8620 for my spiders. My belt cover is also fiberglass on my current lathe and cast aluminum on my last one. I use a sliding test indicator using a zero-set on a pair of rails mounted to the cover, picture is my previous lathe. Can also be used for mounting other indicators. It slides forward out of the way or can be removed when not in use. I have an range of brass tipped spider screws and aluminum fingers.

 

[Ken226]

^^^ very nice. Did you use a laser to etch the words on the plate?

No, I used a 1/32" ball endmill in a cnc milling machine. The markings are through the cerakote and .003 deep into the steel. It's the same machine and end mill I used to engrave the action truing fixture.

Not a big fan of turning 1018 CRS, but it is pretty common and inexpensive. Prefer to work with 4130/40 or 8620 for my spiders. My belt cover is also fiberglass on my current lathe and cast aluminum on my last one. I use a sliding test indicator using a zero-set on a pair of rails mounted to the cover, picture is my previous lathe. Can also be used for mounting other indicators. It slides forward out of the way or can be removed when not in use. I have an range of brass tipped spider screws and aluminum fingers.

View attachment 358254

That is an awesome looking setup. I may copy that.

 

[xr650rRider]

I bought a zero-set and realized that 99% of what I indicate in spider is further away, like a gauge pin in a barrel that is 8 or 9 inches away. Simple piece of angle iron bolted to cover. Noga magnetic indicator base. Then you can use dial indicator, dial test indicator and have some reach.

 

[Jason812]

I use a homemade spider on front and back as well. Almost identical to the grizzly unit. My front is made from a backplate and aluminum. The rear is just slip fit to the spindle and made from 1018, been working well for several years, never even had to replace the screws.

That's what I have done. Local shop owed me for some programming so I took material instead of cash. For the front, 1" piece of 6" OD aluminum bolted to a backplate for a 8" chuck. The rear is from ETD150 or 4140. I'm not sure I just asked for something that would leave a good finish. The rear is the one shared on this site that has been built hundreds of times.

For a receiver fixture I used a 6" piece of 6" OD aluminum and mounted to another backplate for a 8" chuck. From seeing Ken's, I'm almost embarrassed to share a picture of mine.

 

[Ken226]

That's what I have done. Local shop owed me for some programming so I took material instead of cash. For the front, 1" piece of 6" OD aluminum bolted to a backplate for a 8" chuck. The rear is from ETD150 or 4140. I'm not sure I just asked for something that would leave a good finish. The rear is the one shared on this site that has been built hundreds of times.

For a receiver fixture I used a 6" piece of 6" OD aluminum and mounted to another backplate for a 8" chuck. From seeing Ken's, I'm almost embarrassed to share a picture of mine.View attachment 358279

Ain't nothing wrong with that rig! That's heavy-duty as hell.

I make my stuff with a little fluff, but yours looks like you could true up a howitzer receiver in it. It looks badass!

 

[jbolt]

As previously said if chambering with a steady rest any 4-jaw will do.

For 4-jaw chucks I always recommend one with 2-piece jaws so you can use soft jaws. Comes in handy when you have an awkward piece to hold and dial in.

For chambering with the barrel through the head stock I have spiders on both end of the spindle. If you go that route don't forget to clock the spiders together.

As for steel 1018 is okay but I prefer A36 for turning low carbon steel otherwise something in the 41XX series.