Who knows about Takisawa TSL-800D lathes?

Reagan said:
MY-PS-7.5

I get that the machine controls aren’t getting powered hence the contractor isn’t being switched. I just want to trace the circuits versus swapping wires around until it works. And I’m a little ticked off that the manual came minus a complete wiring schematic.
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Ok, Look on your manual for your static converter and find out which terminal is the false leg, Then trace where that goes to on the lathe and you should be able to figure out which wire to switch. You have to be careful which wires you switch at the static converter because you can fry it. I have no experience with the Korean Converter you are using, But I have 2 static converters made by Phase-A-Matic which should be similar.

I have had the same issues in the past with hooking the false leg up to the wrong wire.
 
I see one problem you have is you bought too large of a converter, That's bad Ju-Ju on static converters, Your motor is no larger than 5 horsepower. Bigger is not better on static converters and they many times won't work if they are sized wrong. That is if the 7.5 on that model means 7.5 hp.

I could be wrong. It's best to check with the mfg to get the proper size for your application.


Mark may have a schematic for your wiring, You should link this thread in the "All About Electrical Issues" Sub forum so Mark can help you.

Edit:

I see the MY-PS-7.5 converter you bought is for 5hp motors, So that should be good. Most likely just need the wire switched and you should be good to go.

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Don’t need a wiring diagram to switch 3phase legs, just swap two of them and see if it makes a difference.

FWIW, that type of converter isn’t favored. I use one from North American and am very happy with it.

www.northamericaphaseconverters.com

Static Phase Converters | Electronic Phase Converters | NAPCco

Static Phase Converters A static phase converter is used to generate 3 phase power during the starting of a motor. A static phase converter consists of one or more start capacitors and a start relay. The start capacitors produce electricity across the third winding of a motor during start up,
www.northamericaphaseconverters.com www.northamericaphaseconverters.com

John
 
I get it, but I need a schematic because I want a schematic. At some point I going to absolutely need it. I’d rather have it on hand when that time comes.

So I’m new to the 3 phase conversion game. I chose the Korean one because it wasn’t giving China anything and It seemed to have good reviews. I didn’t find your US option during my searches. Curious why my choice isn’t “preferred.” Looks like the US option runs at 2/3, or 66% power while the Korean one advertises 90%. That’s if the specs they publish are to be believed.

On another note. This unit had a collet closer, but all that is left is the lever mount. Other than being specific to C-5 collets, is it just the shaft length I need to be concerned with?
 
Reagan said:
I get it, but I need a schematic because I want a schematic. At some point I going to absolutely need it. I’d rather have it on hand when that time comes.

So I’m new to the 3 phase conversion game. I chose the Korean one because it wasn’t giving China anything and It seemed to have good reviews. I didn’t find your US option during my searches. Curious why my choice isn’t “preferred.” Looks like the US option runs at 2/3, or 66% power while the Korean one advertises 90%. That’s if the specs they publish are to be believed.

On another note. This unit had a collet closer, but all that is left is the lever mount. Other than being specific to C-5 collets, is it just the shaft length I need to be concerned with?
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I seriously doubt the Korean Unit gives 90%. More like a marketing ploy.

The way they work is, You have L1 and L2 which is your single phase 220 coming in, And There is a stored charge in a capacitor tied into the false leg, When you start the machine the the capacitor dumps it's charge into the 3rd or false leg for about 2 seconds then a potential relay disconnects the capacitor leaving the motor to run on just the 2 legs, So single phase 220 is running the motor after it starts. That's why the controls won't work when you have the false leg hooked to them, There is no power going to it after it starts, You have to have a continuously hot wire going to them.

So the DPS from Korea is working the same way, It may be digitally controlled instead of using the potential relay, I'm not sure.

You can actually make one pretty easy, The hard part is matching the capacitor and the potential relay to the motor you have.
 
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As far as the 5c collet closer goes, There is also a collar with slots going around the circumference that is used to adjust the tension on the collet closer, So the diameter of the collar is another consideration and the length of the tube. Because it attaches to the hollow portion of the spindle at the end of the lathe where the gear train is.

Maybe the collar was left on the lathe?
 
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taem said:
Novice here. I have read the thread about the Webb/Takisawa TSL-800D with great interest and can see that there are some satisfied owners out there. I am currently looking at a good condition Taiwan unit where the present owner seems not to know much about the machine (I think he is selling from buyer's remorse. He advertised a lovely Clausing 13x40 but when we arrived, began pushing the TSL-800 which he had recently bought and decided he didn't need) The Takisawa is a better size for us, and looks to be in good shape, but has limited tooling (has a 8" 3 jaw Buck chuck, steady rest qctp live and dead centers jacobs chuck, but the 4 jaw chuck he bought he says won't fit) There is no collet closer. It has an A1 spindle mounting system. The motor is a 3-5 hp dual speed 3 phase motor and is a much better size for us than the Clausing. Our intended use is making parts to repair farm machinery and shop projects, one off mostly, no production. The ways are good, head has no vibration or bad sounds and it appears to have little wear.
So here are some questions: is there any availability of used parts for this? I didn't see much on ebay or craigslist. Are there any specialty houses that might carry this sort of thing? I see that Takisawa has a distributor in the US but all the stuff on their site is modern industrial. We would like to get a collet closer (it has none) and if we can't adapt the 4 jaw chuck and faceplate, ones of those (I think this would be possible, even thought the present owner had given up)
Next, I pretty much know how to set up a variable speed controller to take our shop 220 1 ph to 3 ph, but how do you do it with this dual speed motor? Any special knowledge for that?
Last is price: he says he has "$4000 in it and wants to get his money back" Given the lack of tooling and his obvious desire to get rid of it, I would offer him $3000 and try to get him to throw in something else we can use. He has a nice shop with two Bridgeports, a SB heavy 10, the Clausing and every collet ever made, so I think we could pick up something. Does this price seem reasonable? Any obvious pitfalls I have overlooked?
Any comments are greatly appreciated.
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taem said:
Novice here. I have read the thread about the Webb/Takisawa TSL-800D with great interest and can see that there are some satisfied owners out there. I am currently looking at a good condition Taiwan unit where the present owner seems not to know much about the machine (I think he is selling from buyer's remorse. He advertised a lovely Clausing 13x40 but when we arrived, began pushing the TSL-800 which he had recently bought and decided he didn't need) The Takisawa is a better size for us, and looks to be in good shape, but has limited tooling (has a 8" 3 jaw Buck chuck, steady rest qctp live and dead centers jacobs chuck, but the 4 jaw chuck he bought he says won't fit) There is no collet closer. It has an A1 spindle mounting system. The motor is a 3-5 hp dual speed 3 phase motor and is a much better size for us than the Clausing. Our intended use is making parts to repair farm machinery and shop projects, one off mostly, no production. The ways are good, head has no vibration or bad sounds and it appears to have little wear.
So here are some questions: is there any availability of used parts for this? I didn't see much on ebay or craigslist. Are there any specialty houses that might carry this sort of thing? I see that Takisawa has a distributor in the US but all the stuff on their site is modern industrial. We would like to get a collet closer (it has none) and if we can't adapt the 4 jaw chuck and faceplate, ones of those (I think this would be possible, even thought the present owner had given up)
Next, I pretty much know how to set up a variable speed controller to take our shop 220 1 ph to 3 ph, but how do you do it with this dual speed motor? Any special knowledge for that?
Last is price: he says he has "$4000 in it and wants to get his money back" Given the lack of tooling and his obvious desire to get rid of it, I would offer him $3000 and try to get him to throw in something else we can use. He has a nice shop with two Bridgeports, a SB heavy 10, the Clausing and every collet ever made, so I think we could pick up something. Does this price seem reasonable? Any obvious pitfalls I have overlooked?
Any comments are greatly appreciated.
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Hello,
I have the same machine and same problem. How did you make out?
 
Reagan said:
I got it hooked up to power and it runs. Won’t start unless I push the magnet contactor manually. I bought manuals, but they don’t have a wiring diagram. Can anyone help or direct to a wiring diagram?
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Hello Reagan, I have the same problem on a tsl-1000 I just purchased. IT pulls one contactor in when I turn it on but doesn't run until I manually press in one of the other two contactors (forward/reverse). I tried the six different wiring combo's... Nothing. Let me know if you figured it out. Maybe since there are three contactors... a static convertor wont work? we need a VFD or a rotary convertor?
 
About twelve years ago when I was looking for a lathe I was debating between a Takasawa and the lathe that I ended up buying . I'm very happy with the lathe I bought, but I felt that the Takasawa was every bit as good. My feeling about the lathe you're looking at is, if it's in good condition , buy it, even if you have to pay him the $4K. I wouldn't trade a nice used Takasawa for two of the brand new Chinese lathes.
Just my two cents and likely worth what you paid for it.
Ted
 
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