Wiring Help Needed

Gaffer

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I need help wiring my Colchester Master 6.5 lathe motor. The motor ran fine before diving into this project. I don't know why a previous owner bypassed the main electrical panel, safeties, and reverse switch, but he did. I am hoping that I can understand what connections to make at the motor, and then I will be able to figure out how to incorporate the main panel wiring and reverse switch. The likelihood of it is doubtful, but I'm determined and appreciate your help. The next two pictures are of the motor ID plate and the nasty wiring from a previous owner.
GE ID Plate.jpg


Closeup of Wiring in Lathe.jpg

I took the motor apart, cleaned everything, and replaced the bearings today. The start and run caps were fine. The centrifugal switch and thermostat also appear to be fine. After cleanup, I found the printed numbers on the wires, but I don't know how to wire them together.

This is the end bell with the centrifugal switch and thermostat, before cleaning and bearing replacement.
Inside Rear End Bell.jpg

The thermostat has wires 7, 10 & 11. Using my multimeter, 10 and 11 are connected at rest. 7 does not have continuity with 10 or 11, so I assume if the motor overheats, 7 energizes the thermostat, and the 10 & 11 connection is broken. Does this sound about right? I assume 10 & 11 are in line with power in, but I don't know how #7 connects. Then there's the centrifugal switch. It has an unmarked black wire from the start cap to the switch. The #8 wire perhaps is in line with the power wire from the thermostat?

There are 4 wires coming out of the housing from the windings/caps, numbers 1, 4, 5 & 8. I used my multimeter to confirm that #8 goes to the centrifugal switch and #5 goes to the run cap. I didn't find any continuity to or between #1 and #4.

I throw in the control panel and reverse switch, and I don't blame you if you leave this post :grin: I'm doing this because the 220V line in will go to the contactor on the control panel. I disassembled everything on the control panel, and cleaned and tested all the switches, etc. All appear functional though I did not apply power to anything. Even the 2 amp Slydlock fuses were good. I polished all the contacts and found nothing obviously wrong. The main switch has Off, On, and On with the coolant pump. I believe the external and recessed momentary switches in the center of the panel for start and stop, respectively.
IMG_2102.jpg
Backside of front panel.jpg And here's the reverse switch
IMG_2158.jpg
IMG_2159.jpg
IMG_2160.jpg
The red and yellow wires from the reverse switch extend to the motor housing but had been bypassed.
IMG_2062.jpg
Below is the only wiring diagram in the manual for a single-speed motor. It's 3 PH and mine is single. Otherwise, it looks about the same. Below this picture is my chicken scratch diagram. I was a little paranoid about removing everything and not being able to put it back as it was. Someone had been in here before.
IMG_2308.jpg
IMG_2309.jpg

I'm going to keep working through this. I'm not in a big rush as I'm still disassembling the lathe for cleaning and painting. Thanks!
 
Well, I would break it down into a couple sections- first, the motor starter/contactor needs to pull when the on button is pushed.
Once you get that to happen then the motor and reversing switch can be hooked up.

I would clean the wiring up and get rid of some of the tape and wire nuts first. Get the motor back together and then we can test the motor by itself before wiring it in. It's good that you have the wiring diagram for the machine

The single phase version is all the same it just uses two of the three legs from the contactor
-Mark
 
That single phase motor that you have is not reversed by switching 2 motor leads like the 3P motor that was originally there. Single phase motors must be built as reversible. I do not know if the one you have is reversible.
 
I believe it can be reversed we just need to ID the start leg wires
The single phase reversing wiring isn't shown on the factory diagram so we'll need to re-create it
Doesn't look too hard- kinda like a drum switch

I'm not sure how long that main motor/pump rotary switch will hold up- if it fails you might need/want to break out the functions to a pair of toggle switches instead. You won't be finding electrical parts for that lathe are very plentiful. Ebay maybe.
 
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OK I'm back- let me know when you need motor help
You said that there were four wires coming out of the motor originally: 1,4, 5 and 8.
1 and 4 should be the main windings and 5 and 8 would be the start leg. There should be continuity between each of those pairs
before you button the motor up. If not we need to find out why.
-Mark
I have a feeling the existing controls/switches are on their last legs-
but for now let's get the motor back together. Don't buy any new stuff just yet.
 
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The motor is together. All wire nuts and suspect jumpers were trashed, so I'm back to the original wiring, but nothing is connected. I'm not going to have a chance to work on it until next weekend. I lost today taking my wife to Riverdance's 25 Anniversary show. It was awesome!

It sounds like you want me to wire the front panel to check the switches and contactor - yes? I have cleaned all of it. The contacts all look fine but the proof will be powering it up and testing it. If there is something wrong and parts are not available, I'm fine with alternate switching. Presently, I do not intend to use the coolant pump, but I'd like it to operate if should I change my mind. I cleaned up the pump and it spins freely.
 
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Sure I guess go ahead and reconnect it all. If it doesn't work let me know, and send some new pics regardless
-M
 
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