Wiring Help. Shredmaster 1000, Westinghouse 317P & DPDT

[CorruptUpped]

Hello there, I am quite happy I found this community as I have a few future projects I could use a little help with.

My current project is fixing a AC motor to a new switch for a paper shredder. The current switch seems to have failed in one direction, but works when in the forward direction.

This is the stock wiring switch, with what seems to be an interrupt



I have a small DPDT switch of the same size to attempt repair, model Selecta SS118-BG


The motor in question seems to be a Westinghouse 317P


There are 4 wires coming out of the motor



I do hope someone would be kind enough to help me replace the original switch with the new working one. If this switch is not compatible or I need to remove the interrupt and add an external drum switch do let me know which switch you would recommend to get this shredder back to 100 functional.

 

[markba633csi]

It looks like the original switch is an uncommon type, possibly a special OEM, like the motor itself. Can you pull off wires to show the switch terminals?
Not sure if you can directly replace with a standard DPDT unit
A bit of detective work is in order- how does the power cord connect? I see one lead goes to the breaker, where does the other one go?
-Mark
ps does the motor have a start capacitor? It may be a split phase motor without one, if you don't see a bulge on the outside

 

[aliva]

Here's results from a quick search. It's a starting point

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Electroswitch/9202C?qs=x28CZqCRqylw2xegD9J88w%3D%3D

 

[CorruptUpped]

This is about the closest I could get on google with a wiring pin out and label match. It does not seem to have a capacitor, from all my googling I have seen this type of motor wired up with a large drum switch I normally see on boat lifts and hoists, not this small type switch. Of course I am far more versed in DC than AC.

 

[Bi11Hudson]

According to the nameplate, reversing the RED and BLACK wires will reverse the motor rotation. A "standard" double pole double throw (DPDT) switch will work, but. . .

Most commercially available switches are not "motor rated". The rated switch current may well be within the motor current range. But what needs to be allowed for is the "inductive flyback" that is present with a motor. Observe the physical size of the OEM switch, being almost twice the size of the purchased replacement. If there is a seperate ON-OFF switch and the motor is reversed only at "zero speed", most any DPDT switch will work. On the other hand, if the motor is reversed while running, there will be significant "flash over" as one set of contacts opens and the other closes. This is where the "motor rating" comes into play.

While using the purchased switch will work, the reversing must only be done at zero speed. A "drum switch" can be used if the operation requires it. But is not necessary unless you desire one. However, drum switches do allow the motor to be reversed under power. That's a call only you can make. Another factor is "other" users of the machine. So long as you are the only user and observe the zero speed rule, a cheap switch should last almost forever.

.

 

[markba633csi]

OK it looks like red and black are the start leg and connect to L1 and L2. (blue and white)
But the switch is definitely weird
With the new switch you have plus one more you could wire it like this: (breaker not shown)

 

[markba633csi]

A drum switch would probably be simpler:
"hockey stick" isn't an official nomenclature, it's just a name I use to identify that style. Verify the contact arrangement before buying

 

[CorruptUpped]

Why thank you very much, I ordered a 2x440a hockey style switch for this fix up so it will hopefully continue operation, without having to always be the one operating it.

 

[markba633csi]

Very good- you can include the breaker when you wire up your new switch-
Customarily the factory will choose the incoming black (hot) wire for an in-line breaker- that corresponds to the narrower flat prong on your plug