WM210V upgrade to Numobams NUE210V ELS

weston1968

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I just got the kit today and installed it. I consists of a standard stepper driver, a 36v 5a power supply, a new faceplate, and a small controller with a display. There was no documentation at all. I wound up drilling some extra holes to mount the electronics. It is not an easy or obvious fit. The connectors are not made for the high vibration environment of a lathe. You need a m6x1.0 tap, drills and an assortment of m3 screws nuts and washers.

It works and is quiet without change gears. It seems to be geared to threading. I could not see how to cut a length and then loop for deeper cuts. It would seem that the way to do this is use a fine thread. It does do looping for threading.

When I figure out how to use it I will post a video. You can program the encoder and stepper pulses, so this should be adaptable to any other setup. There is no documentation so I took pictures of the connectors just in case the wires come loose.

It uses a NEMA 23 motor 110 mm long.
 
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Glad to hear that you got it and it didn't seem like it took all that long to get. I've learned that everything actually does what it says it does but it does it in what i refer to as a "checkbox feature". What i mean by this is while it technically can do the feature it might not be the most intuitive or efficient way of doing it. So when you're comparing 2 different things you naturally pick the one that has more features, even if those features are so difficult to use you rarely or never use them!

What is the highest TPI that it will do? If it supports something over 200 TPI you should be able to get a good surface finish.

The feed rates on my lathe are .0025", .005" & .01" which translate to 400, 200 and 100 TPI respectively.

I'd be curious to see what the connectors are and what the kit in total looks like. Good luck - i'm sure once you get the hang of it you'll love it.
 
You can see the connectors on the driver attached. The problem is the screws holding the wire in place.

Under custom I can make a 0.0001mm thread. 1 mm=25.4 TPI, 0.0001 mm = 254,000 TPI

dm 556 driver and power supply attached. I am able to use the old Tachometer which is good because it does not display speed while cutting.
 

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Those are the same terminal screws as any of the stepper drivers - the trick is to either use a ferrule or tin the wire going in there and tighten it with a small screwdriver.
 
Those are the same terminal screws as any of the stepper drivers - the trick is to either use a ferrule or tin the wire going in there and tighten it with a small screwdriver.
For vibration environments I prefer crimp on connectors that lock into place. Screws always seem to vibrate loose. I am looking for crimp on versions of those connectors.

The threading does something really cool. I marked the lead screw with a marker and then did a 1mm thread 4mm long. I ran it and the lead screw did not return to the same position cut and return. I then did the same with a fine thread and it did return to the same position cut and return. I realized that it took into account the added length of the depth of the cut when specifying the length of the thread. A bonus I had not expected.
 
I just got the kit today and installed it. I consists of a standard stepper driver, a 36v 5a power supply, a new faceplate, and a small controller with a display. There was no documentation at all. I wound up drilling some extra holes to mount the electronics. It is not an easy or obvious fit. The connectors are not made for the high vibration environment of a lathe. You need a m6x1.0 tap, drills and an assortment of m3 screws nuts and washers.

It works and is quiet without change gears. It seems to be geared to threading. I could not see how to cut a length and then loop for deeper cuts. It would seem that the way to do this is use a fine thread. It does do looping for threading.

When I figure out how to use it I will post a video. You can program the encoder and stepper pulses, so this should be adaptable to any other setup. There is no documentation so I took pictures of the connectors just in case the wires come loose.

It uses a NEMA 23 motor 110 mm long.
Turns out it uses a Nema 24 motor and a 36v 5a supply. The attached documentations seems real close to the motor. The torque curve suggests that a 2mm thread would have a max chuck RPM of 150. All threads would be proportional a 1mm thread could run at chuck 300 RPM. Going up to a 48v supply would give a small increase in speed.
 

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These are my mounting holes for the kit. I was able to mount the tachometer under the control board. I bought a smaller pot from Amazon and mounted off to the right so I could see the RPM as I adjusted. I removed the old screening on the plate with acetone.

There is a maximum speed for cutting of around 100 RPM @ 2.00 mm thread. The stepper has a maximum torque at this lead screw speed torque drops off quickly as lead screw peed increases. So I can go 200 RPM @ 1.00 mm thread or 50 RPM @ 4.00 mm thread or 400 RPM @ 0.50 mm thread

The mounting screws for the 36v 5a power supply interfere with the rear shield. Socket head screws ill work but button head are not as high and work better.
 

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For $300 they could have given you a closed loop stepper. The micro controller couldn't have cost more than $5.00, the motor retails for $20, and the other parts no more than $40.
 
They supplied a NEMA 24 motor 102mm long and a 36v power supply. I was not happy with the speed/torque so I put in a NEMA 34 motor with 12Nm hold. The problem was that the motor was too slow. I went to a NEMA 23 motor with a 10 mm shaft and a 4.2amp spec (23HE45-4204S). This gave good speed but inadequate torque. I solved the torque problem by over currenting the motor to 5.6 amp with a 48v power supply. I solved the temperature problem by using a 120 mm 48 volt fan directly facing the motor. This gives me good speed and good torque while keeping the motor cool.

I am almost finished and will post pictures.
 
I modified the front plate to accept the original tachometer. The pot does not make smooth speed changes. I put in a 10 turn pot but it did not improve the result. The Problem must be in the controller for motor speed. This setup gives a lot of torque on the lead screw up to 350 RPM and is gone by 425 RPM. The optical encoder occasionally gave me odd results over 600 RPM on the chuck. I had to mount a 48v 10 amp supply on the back of the lathe and step up the current to 5.6 amps with a cooling fan.

I am pleased with the result and the lathe has adequate power for cutting threads.
 

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