2015 POTD Thread Archive

I purchased a Hobart EZ tig, but it arrived dented pretty badly and wouldn't auto start. Touch starting worked ok and it seemed like a decent welder, but when I returned it I decided to upgrade to a Miller Syncrowave 210. I'm very happy with that welder.
 
mark_f said:
It is crude but it works pretty good. It is just a steel block with a threaded rod through it and the blank goes on one end and the gear to copy on the other end. This gear had an 8 tooth section stripped out so when I got to it I stopped the mill with the cutter in the last finished tooth and indexed the bad gear to a good section and picked up again.
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Mark I like your quick easy to use set up , it's probably as accurate as a lot of expensively attempted home made ones as well .
Are the milling cutters pre-ground to size or did you have to mill or grind them to fit the cog ? I'm asking for that tuye of fit /accuracy in cutting a few cogs is something I want to try on my old lathe .. I don't have a mill so am limited to ready made /sized cutters .
 
zmotorsports said:
Actually it will hold up fine as far as durability and corrosion protection. It is just the finish that goes "chalky" with extended exposure to UV.

I have been using POR-15 for well over 10 years now and I am surprised at how well it holds up in even some of the most harsh environment. If you look I have not put the POR-15 anywhere on the top side of the trailer, only the underside (with the exception of where the wood planks will be). The top side is getting a couple coats of etching primer followed by single stage urethane automotive paint so it will withstand the UV.

Mike.
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I like the trailer ..if I had one as pretty as that it would get swiped withing 20 minutes of having it on show & be miles away in the next 20 .

Mike .
I seen there could be an easy an alternative to having the spare on the side of the trailer and making it tow out of true due to the unbalance of its weight , it could also give you a good nose weight , my idea is perhaps use the "A" frame that the tool box sits on.
Weld in two cross bars put a plate over them and raise the tool box on legs/or a frame so that you slide the spare in on top of the A frame & under the tool box . It would be easy to make a bolted up securing bar or even a hinged gate across the tyre to hold it in place as well perhaps even making it a turn handle & keyed slam lock job . That would also make it easy for you to take out if in urgent need at the road side & also be a place to store an emergency wheel brace jack if the wheel nuts are different to your vehicle leaving your tool box to hold just ratchet tensioner /tie down straps etc etc. .
It would/could help stop UV damage to the tyre as well if it were fully encased.
 
Round in circles said:
Mark I like your quick easy to use set up , it's probably as accurate as a lot of expensively attempted home made ones as well .
Are the milling cutters pre-ground to size or did you have to mill or grind them to fit the cog ? I'm asking for that tuye of fit /accuracy in cutting a few cogs is something I want to try on my old lathe .. I don't have a mill so am limited to ready made /sized cutters .
Click to expand...
This one was a involute gear cutter I had lying arond and it just happen to be the right tooth profile.
 
Fired up the forge for the first time and tried to anneal my chunk of rail iron before I begin machining it. Took about 30 minutes to get the whole piece to red hot and I soaked it for a further 30 minutes to get a consistent color end to end. After heating I just sealed up the forge and left it to cool down slowly.


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Cool, ah, or, hot, yeah that's the ticket. See you wear the same steel toed flip flops I use. Hope that does the trick for you. Mike
 
Hey Mike nice Trailer. Pretty cool looking. Hey is that a Street Bob I see hiding back there? It looks like it wants to kick that trailer off to the back burner and get out. It looks good too.
Mark
 
Peter, Love that forge I have to crack down and build one. Am I right thinking that is an LP (propane) tank? looks like the ones they use on a fork truck. You mentioned sealing it so the rail could cool slow what are you using on the top? Any way that is nice. what's the plan for the rail? a anvil? If so would love to see pics of that when your done.
mark
 
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