2016 POTD Thread Archive

Dave, I think most lead screws have a shear pin for the very reason you ran into. They are often right at the feed box where the lead screw attaches, no disassembley required.

Greg

I wish. That was the first thing I checked. The shaft coming out of the gearbox spins freely with the leadscrew, It's definitely something inside the gearbox.
 
I wish. That was the first thing I checked. The shaft coming out of the gearbox spins freely with the leadscrew, It's definitely something inside the gearbox.

I would check where the feed gears get there power. The gear that runs from the headstock to the feed gear box should be on a pivot to be able to disengage the gearbox completely. Might of spun that away on its own or taken all the teeth off. Don't ask me how I know this.


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I would check where the feed gears get there power. The gear that runs from the headstock to the feed gear box should be on a pivot to be able to disengage the gearbox completely. Might of spun that away on its own or taken all the teeth off. Don't ask me how I know this.

And that's the second thing I checked. Those gears are fine, and the power feed still works.
 
Must be the lever on the saddle that engages disengages the lead screw vs the feed rod.

Nope. On my lathe, both the PF and LS rods rotate when the lathe is rotating, and the carriage just uses one or the other based on the levers on the carriage. But now, the PF rod rotates when the lathe is rotating, but the LS doesn't.
 
I decided to check my tailstock alignment on my lathe. After seeing Abom using the bar from Edge Technology I ordered one. Well I am glad I checked. It was off by 4 thousands. I am good to go now.
DSCF1299_zpsbemgo4pm.jpg
Any particular advantage to that one over making one from ground drill rod? That has been my plan. I even picked up several pieces of drill rod for 50¢ per pound from a surplus shop the other day (though I haven't tested them for straightness yet).

 
One thing I notice is some check inline using just centers from headstock to tailstock.
That is good if you are only turning between those centers.
If you are using a 3 or a 4 jaw chuck more, I would definitely be checking using the chuck for lining the tailstock after the center to center.
 
My first taper between centers, offsetting the tail-stock.

7/8 hex 12L14, HSS round nose bit.

Wagner

Is the taper cosmetic or mating (precision fit) like Morse or B&S?
I'm just wondering what precision you were able to achieve and how you checked it?
 
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