2017 POTD Thread Archive

[richl]

Ok, another chapter in the garage saga complete... garage is now protected from the weather, that was stressing me a bit. She is closed up, Windows in and sealed, tyvek from 3' up is in. Lots of repairs made today...

Tomorrow I'll work on soffit, than hopefully start the vertical element on the back gable... most all of the tough stuff is done, yippie!!!

Rich

 

[Franko]

Sorry if I was stammering excuses

No worries, Rich. I've never used Tyvek. I've always just used tar paper overlapping from top to bottom. More than likely, whatever siding you choose will shed water just fine. But, I'm a belt and suspenders type guy when it comes to water-proofing. Pookey and tapes fail whereas shedding drainage applications last as long as whatever they're made of.

 

[richl]

Hey Frank, cool. Tyvek really isn't a water shield, it's technically a vapor barrier. If you want a water shield now a days they have some real nice product that comes in roll and has a rubber membrane on one side and a really good rubber sticking side. Its used in masonry applications. I might spring for a 50' roll for the bottom 36" of my wall. I am going to place a stone detail there. Give the place a nice dressing up. I grew up as a carpenter, 40 years, learned a ton from my dad... tar paper is a decent product, especially 20 to 30 lbs felt, the 15lbs rolls not so much, but as is the case for many things, there are better products now. I am constantly trying to figure out what I am missing. Things change fast now a days, and all the stuff I grew up using, many do not even apply anymore. Plus, for the last 30 years most of the buildings I have been doing are either 30-50 story skyscrapers in Manhattan, Atlantic city, or philly or casinos... so I am always playing catchup when I do some resendential work

It's a pain In the butt job, but kinda fun too, I'm fixing a ton of really ugly stuff, and getting to design something, as well as protecting my machines and shop

Sorry if I ramble, the young guys at work get a kick outta it anyway...

Rich

 

[Franko]

Hum. I was under the impression that Tyvek (and tar paper) are wind barriers that allow water vapor to escape but stops water intrusion so moisture doesn't build up inside the walls to inhibit mold and compromise the insulation. Moisture barriers were used on the inside walls under the sheetrock, but I don't think that is recommended now. But, I haven't really kept up with the latest science on that.

 

[richl]

I'm talking vapor, as I understand it, it does not stop water from seeping thru but allows it to pass, either direction, tar paper will trap the moisture, this is the reason for rotting materials if not detected. My experience is that neither are a perfect solution and this is the reason for newer systems... more and more, mostly on commercial buildings and public buildings, roofs and under masonary products you are seeing the newer membrane roll on products...

And I may know less than you about this...

Rich

 

[richl]

And, I just set up one of my lasers in the back, I had to wait for dark so I could see the red beam. The head heights on my windows are all within 1/8" of each other. I could not get any of the lasers to work, or so I could see them, so I used an outta level 6 footer as a straight edge and a good 4 footer on top of it to level from the from front of the garage to the back that's 45 feet... yippie!!!

Rich

 

[uncle harry]

Hey Frank, cool. Tyvek really isn't a water shield, it's technically a vapor barrier. If you want a water shield now a days they have some real nice product that comes in roll and has a rubber membrane on one side and a really good rubber sticking side. Its used in masonry applications. I might spring for a 50' roll for the bottom 36" of my wall. I am going to place a stone detail there. Give the place a nice dressing up. I grew up as a carpenter, 40 years, learned a ton from my dad... tar paper is a decent product, especially 20 to 30 lbs felt, the 15lbs rolls not so much, but as is the case for many things, there are better products now. I am constantly trying to figure out what I am missing. Things change fast now a days, and all the stuff I grew up using, many do not even apply anymore. Plus, for the last 30 years most of the buildings I have been doing are either 30-50 story skyscrapers in Manhattan, Atlantic city, or philly or casinos... so I am always playing catchup when I do some resendential work

It's a pain In the butt job, but kinda fun too, I'm fixing a ton of really ugly stuff, and getting to design something, as well as protecting my machines and shop

Sorry if I ramble, the young guys at work get a kick outta it anyway...

Rich

Oh, those young guys.

 

[RJSakowski]

In Wisconsin, we have the worst of both. We have cold winters where we humidify our homes for comfort reasons and we have high humidity summers were we air condition our homes, again for comfort reasons. Both scenarios create a migration of water vapor from a warm humid area to a cooler less humid area. Placing a true vapor barrier in that migration path will build up moisture on the high humidity side.

It used to be common practice to use polyethylene sheeting on the inside wall under the drywall. This prevents moisture from saturating the insulation during the winter months but can create moisture buildup in the walls during hot, high humidity conditions. Felt paper, which had been used as an outside wall barrier a half century ago, has low permeability for liquid water, water vapor, and wind. It would seal the home but the condensation of moisture during winter months created problems with rot and mold. Tyvek is permeable to water vapor but has low liquid water permeability, much like GoreTex. It is also has reasonably good resistance to wind, making it a good cladding material for homes.

 

[BGHansen]

POTD was installing a Z-axis scale on my Bridgeport mill. My Jet mill has a 4-axis DRO from TPACtools; I've become very accustomed to using the Z-axis table position for depth of cut. My Bridgeport has a 2-axis CNC set up which gives table position, but nothing in the Z.

The scale was from Shars and cost $100. It's supposedly impervious to water and dust, we'll see over time. Made a couple of stand-offs to mount the scale off the column. Made up some aluminum plates for mounting the sliding read head to the knee. The bottom bracket has a drilled hole, top bracket is slotted for adjustment fore/aft. I swept the column with an indicator on the knee which naturally being a painted casting was all over the place for side to side. This scale reminds me of a Mitutoyo Absolute digital calipers, my hope is that tramming is not super critical like a glass scale on the side to side. The scale is 24" long and made from stainless, it can be deflected by 1/8" in the middle with finger pressure, so I'm figuring there's a little wiggle room there. Did a quick check on the scale for side to side relative to the knee and it's within 0.004", so I didn't bother shimming the stand-offs.

I originally mounted the slider cable to the rear, but the scale ran more negative as I raised the knee instead of more positive. No way to reverse the scale direction that I could find, so I flipped the reader around on the scale. Well that didn't change anything so I flipped the scale so the cable runs out the front and added a cable tie to the reader bracket to manage the cable.

Made a little sheet metal bracket to mount the remote display. It has magnets on the back but screwed the supplied bracket to the sheet metal which just tucks between the Anilam controller and its mounting bracket.

Happy to have digital back on the table and will be looking to add a scale to the quill also. I usually measure the height of the work, advance the table until the tool just about touches, then advance and lock the quill with a tool touch. Then set my Z-axis to the measured height of the work. This Shars scales does let me set the Z to a value though it is a bit cumbersome, much like setting a digital watch.

Bruce

 

[JimDawson]

I originally mounted the slider cable to the rear, but the scale ran more negative as I raised the knee instead of more positive.

That is the correct direction. As you move the knee up, closer to the tool the direction is negative. Same as moving the quill downward to the work.


Nice job!