2013 POTD Thread Archive

After 32 years, you know what you can get away with and what you can't... I'm sure the next tube of lipstick was 50 or 60 bucks... Oh, and the granite counter-tops and new kitchen helps relations a good bit. -Didn't even try to struggle on that one. ----LOL, all in jest...

Ray


stern said:
LOL OH NO, YOU DIDNT!!! . Well, you KNOW your going to pay for that one lol Usually they let it sit a few years then BLAM!!! right out of the blue :)
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george wilson said:
I LIKE my wife to wear lipstick!! I'm a real sucker for it.

Today,among other things,I started making an 18th. C. pump drill for a friend in the museum. The worst thing is cutting the pesky tapered thread on the nose. I have no taper attachment for the Hardinge. Can't remember hold I did it many years ago. I just crank back the cross feed while threading. Then,I use a needle file to smooth the threads. I remembered I have threading combs when I came in tonight. I will use the 20 thd one tomorrow to smooth over the threads. Then,the threads are slit so that when the knurled nut is tightened on the tapered threads,the 1/8" shank spade drill (I make those,too) will be tightened. I used to make a lot of those.

One Summer I made 6 of those before going to a flea market. I let them stick up out of my back pack while going around the market. I sold every one of those. Paid for the trip and stuff I purchased. By now,I've forgotten how I used to make certain things on the blasted things,though.
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Please post pictures of these. I want to see how the threads turn out.

Jeff
 
I have some not too good pictures of pump drills I mnade years ago. I made slides of them at the time and scanned them.

I'll post pictues of past pump drills un a new thread. I'll take pictures on the one under construction and post them when it's done.
 
I just finished a project that I needed to use my carriage stop on my lathe. The one I have is one I picked upped from a swap meet sometime back. It’s one with a screw thread type stop that is kind of like a micrometer yet total not like one. I don't like where it hits on the carriage, I don't like how it adjust, I don't like that it takes 2 different Allen wrenches to adjust it, I don't like that it has no way to hold a indicator, and I don't like that you have to take it completely apart to get it off the lathe. Basically I don't like it. So I was reading Dranreb's post on the one he made http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...er-carriage-stop-design?highlight=lathe+stops And I really liked his design. So I put it on my back burner list of projects. Then clevinski posted in this thread one he had made that I really liked as well. I liked Dranreb's because of shape and overall function but clevinski's was made to adjust without tools. So this weekend I sat down and finally made one. I started to make it out of aluminum but nothing in my scrap drawer was the right size so I found a chunk of mild steel that fit the bill. While I was making it I remember a post that cascao http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...press-vise-fixture?highlight=drill+press+vise had made using bike cam clamps to hold a drill press vise and I knew I had to use his idea on this project. So I found an old seat post binder bolt off a Schwinn mountain bike. The bolt part was bent and the threads were M8X1.25. I found a shoulder bolt in 5/16-24 which gave me a finer thread and a larger shank size. A little work on the lathe to extend the threads up the shank some and to fit in the cam mounting of the Schwinn binder and it was ready to go. So here is the result. Thanks to everyone for the inspiration.

9395282663_452d167185_c.jpg9398042594_1459dd2b0a_c.jpg9398045070_1702979441_c.jpg9398047856_a55ea6eb87_c.jpg9398052790_bf63ee2230_c.jpg

Its amazing how well the bike cam holds with just a little pressure and it is quick to adjust with no tools. The plunger point is adjusted with the thumb screw. I have to take the thumb screw out to use the indicator but if I put a set screw in its place I can use the plunger and the indicator at the same time I would just need to use an Allen wrench to tighten the plunger down. Most of the time all I would need is the plunger.

Jeff

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churchjw said:
I just finished a project that I needed to use my carriage stop on my lathe. The one I have is one I picked upped from a swap meet sometime back. It’s one with a screw thread type stop that is kind of like a micrometer yet total not like one. I don't like where it hits on the carriage, I don't like how it adjust, I don't like that it takes 2 different Allen wrenches to adjust it, I don't like that it has no way to hold a indicator, and I don't like that you have to take it completely apart to get it off the lathe. Basically I don't like it. So I was reading Dranreb's post on the one he made http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...er-carriage-stop-design?highlight=lathe+stops And I really liked his design. So I put it on my back burner list of projects. Then clevinski posted in this thread one he had made that I really liked as well. I liked Dranreb's because of shape and overall function but clevinski's was made to adjust without tools. So this weekend I sat down and finally made one. I started to make it out of aluminum but nothing in my scrap drawer was the right size so I found a chunk of mild steel that fit the bill. While I was making it I remember a post that cascao http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...press-vise-fixture?highlight=drill+press+vise had made using bike cam clamps to hold a drill press vise and I knew I had to use his idea on this project. So I found an old seat post binder bolt off a Schwinn mountain bike. The bolt part was bent and the threads were M8X1.25. I found a shoulder bolt in 5/16-24 which gave me a finer thread and a larger shank size. A little work on the lathe to extend the threads up the shank some and to fit in the cam mounting of the Schwinn binder and it was ready to go. So here is the result. Thanks to everyone for the inspiration.

[image references removed]

Its amazing how well the bike cam holds with just a little pressure and it is quick to adjust with no tools. The plunger point is adjusted with the thumb screw. I have to take the thumb screw out to use the indicator but if I put a set screw in its place I can use the plunger and the indicator at the same time I would just need to use an Allen wrench to tighten the plunger down. Most of the time all I would need is the plunger.

Jeff
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I like the use of the bike cam. I'll have to remember that one. I wonder if they could be used as the hold down on the tail stock on my 9x20?


Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
I didn't have a holder for my 3/4 inch end mills and those I looked at wouldn't work with double ended cutters which is about half of my cutter collection. I made a holder from some scrap I had laying around. It works with single or double ended cutters and can be just popped into a three or four jaw chuck. It's so convenient I'm gonna make a 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch version.
Ed P

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JScott said:
This took a couple of days but it turned out well. A friend at work brought me a free mower. Someone was throwing it away because the front wheel drive had quit working. In the attached parts diagram Item 4 on the top of shaft 13 had worn out and the worm was not engaging the worm gear properly. I took a chunk of 1-1/2" brass hex bar and whittled away until I had a new bearing. The flat keeps it from rotating in the gearbox. Did a test fit last night and it fits perfectly. Now I just need to add grease to the gearbox and put it all back together. I am very green so it took about 5 hours all told but it turned out nice and the free mower just went from junk to about $150 so I guess I made about $30 an hour! Don't you just love the way brass machines and looks?
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Nice fix. People need to do more of this instead of just tossing things out.

Jeff
 
Just a comment on repair vs discard. I still use a 1970 Craftsman lawn tractor. 20 years ago i got it with a broken rod and hole in the block. I disassembled it got the block welded shut put a rod, seals, rings etc in and am using it 20 years later. It needs an engine rebuild but avoided the junk pile so far.
Machining related; i have made several parts such as steering tie rods over the years.
 
Any reason to learn solid edge 2d and make a set of plans and a much needed dial indicator holder.

CIMG1391.JPG

Note the written notes on drawing that were later updated in the drawing file.

CIMG1391.JPG
 
Ray C said:
Started to make a pair of 45[SUP]o[/SUP] vise jaws for a quick way of holding something in the mill. I really hate swinging the mill head and losing tram. While I'm at it, I'll probably make a 60[SUP]o[/SUP] set too. These will be reversible and can be flipped around. Anyhow, these are rough cut and the metal is 4150. It's HR now so I'll make the basic forms heat treat them to 55 RC grind them precisely and hopefully use them for the rest of my life.

Any ideas for other common angles?

Ray

View attachment 57902
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what am I missing here ? how do you keep them from rising apart when you tighten the ? or do I need more coffee ?
 
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