2009 mini cooper clubman, timing chain and valve seals

GoceKU said:
I've been there, you need to put the engine in timing then torqe the bolt. I had it be half a tooth off, many ford engines are like that, horrible design. You may as well remove that bolt, install the cam sprockets torque them, set the timing tighten the bolt by hand then unlock the crank and cams rotate it two circles by hand and check the timing marks, if right torqe the bolt and re check.
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The engine is in time. The crank is locked by the dowel and the cams are locked by the cam tools.

There are no timing marks on this engine. The timing is set by locking the crank in its timing position, then locking the cams in their timing positions, then install the timing chain and gears and then TTY them all in place. The location of the actual crank and cam gears is irrelevant because the timing is set by the locking tools. Rotate whichever gear to whatever radial you want, it just doesn’t matter.

This was most likley my own fault and not holding the cam chain fully up when assembling the timing set, which likely allowed it to "loop" off a crank gear tooth at the bottom of the run and now, here I am.
 
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GoceKU said:
i'm not sure if peugeot uses the same bolt i've worked on N14 engine i think it was 50 Nm than 90 degrees, wait 5 min then another 90 degrees. it feels like the bolt is snaping on the last stage.
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This is an N12, still a Prince engine. The actual (electronic) BMW/Mini manual calls for 50 NM and 180 so that's what it got. Says nothing about staging the angles.
 
i've used a tape measure with the end cut off to push the chain down to skip the tooth. I don't remember if the cam sprockets are keyed if they are you may find to be couple of degrees off timing.
 
GoceKU said:
i've used a tape measure with the end cut off to push the chain down to skip the tooth. I don't remember if the cam sprockets are keyed if they are you may find to be couple of degrees off timing.
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Nothing is keyed. All held in place by torque settings. That tape measure thing won't work on this engine. The chain guides are tool tight to the chain. Front and rear guides "click" together at the bottom and hold themselves tight to the chain at the bottom.
 
GoceKU said:
Only thing then is to rotate the crank, go slow if you feel tight spot is probably the valve touching the piston, then go the other way.
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I'm only going to try 10-20 degrees rotation at the most. Wife picked up a second TTY bolt and will be home in a couple hours if I can't get things to come loose with a small crank rotation.
 
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great white said:
That went right over my head.....spellcheck and Been There, Done That maybe?

If so, I've been down this road more times than I can count. I'm basically just chronicling the journey....
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Yes, been there done that.

Most of us have tackled jobs that are similar, but just enough different than ones we’ve done before.

I was just commenting how the depth and breadth of experiences of members here can be helpful.

John
 
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