2013 POTD Thread Archive

[stevecmo]

:roflmao:

Perfect!! Does it come in a bigger size? :whistle:

 

[ARM]

Tonights little project, I bought some very small slitting saws on ebay to see if they could be used to cut graduation lines on the ball turning attachment I'm working on. They are paper thin HSS,I'm not holding out much hope they will be that useful in steel but will just have to see. The project tonight was making the arbour.

View attachment 63273

Shawn

Hi SHAWN
Look forward to seeing Your BALL TURNER and how constructed.
We also working on one, albeit rather slowly.
Do post progressive pics.
thanks and regards
aRM

 

[Charley Davidson]

@Charlie - what material is your tangential tool holder made from? Are you grinding the bit at 30*? I need to make a grinding jig like yours, I'm still grinding my bits free hand.

Unknownium steel, it may have been marked but I don't remember. The 30 degree grinding fixture holds the cutter at a right angle to the wheel & tips it up to sit in the fixture on its corner mine is also 12 degree 12 degree if my memory serves me right I will correct this statement if I find I'm wrong after looking at the original plans.

 

[blaser.306]

I ground an internal threading tool for tight spaces, that's an exercise in patients :rofl:

View attachment 63236

Very nice! I would love to do the same, as a matter of fact I consulted the Acklands catalogue today( figuring I would likely ruin a couple of blanks) The price listed for Clevland 3/8" cobalt tool blanks. Wait for it and hopefully be sitting down! A measly $92.00 Canadian EA!!! Where does a person find tool blanks for a "reasonable cost" Most of the equipment suppliers here do not even recognise manual machines as machining? I was also informed by an "expert" at one of the shops that it is nearly impossible to cut threads with single pointing.

 

[jumps4]

Today I was building intake manifold parts and linkage for my different scooter engines. The first pic shows on the left side, the original reed plate and intake with an intake adapter and 19mm Chinese carb, the (factory carb was 12mm). It worked ok but was too lean at wide open and jets are not here yet to fix it. The next carb and intake parts including fuel pump is a 24mm oko I mocking up for the 80cc motor I'm building. It came with 6 jets all too rich so parts will be here Friday for it.
the last set of pics is an intake adapter, linkage parts and mounting I did for a walbro type 22mm carb for the 70cc engine. It was late when I got it together so I won't get a test drive until tomorrow. It really looks like a better way to go and I have these up to 28mm to fit 200cc paramotors. you can adjust everything without changing jets and the one I installed is for up to 90cc.
there are pics of the cnc mill making an intake adapter it took 45 minutes from measuring, drawing. machining to bolting it on.
tomorrow I will bore the 80cc/50mm cylinder and start building the biggest motor yet.
I hope everyone had a good day
thanks for looking
steve

pics are not in the right order.... the old intake and reed plate is down further

 

[Dave Smith]

Very nice! I would love to do the same, as a matter of fact I consulted the Acklands catalogue today( figuring I would likely ruin a couple of blanks) The price listed for Clevland 3/8" cobalt tool blanks. Wait for it and hopefully be sitting down! A measly $92.00 Canadian EA!!! Where does a person find tool blanks for a "reasonable cost" Most of the equipment suppliers here do not even recognise manual machines as machining? I was also informed by an "expert" at one of the shops that it is nearly impossible to cut threads with single pointing.

in the MSC book the cleveland 3/8" blanks are $5 per blank and $3.30 for 1/4" blanks
--these are under tool bits----Dave

 

[David Kirtley]

Just about finished the drill grinding gauge. Have a bit more clean up to do and some stamping and maybe a scale to do. I decided not to do the portion of the exercise regarding drilling and tapping. I don't know what I want in that space but the random threaded holes isn't what I want. I did forego the hacksawing and roughed it out on the bandsaw. I have spent enough quality time with a hacksaw in my life. The radii on the ends could do with a bit more fussing. Also the radiused edges need a bit more evening out. It was a fun project and I recommend doing one hand sometime. It wouldn't have taken quite so much time to finish up if I had not used 1/8" stock. Keeping the edges square was quite a bit of trouble.

 

[Charley Davidson]

I bought an I Gauging 24" DRO scale & reader off of a forum member who is set up to be a dealer to put on my height gauge. I did do that but decided it would be of better use on my x axis of my Bridgeport so I did that tonight. I can't believe I haven't added a DRO to everything after just one cut with it.

I was easily able to cut a 10" slot in a project without counting revolutions and it was dead nuts.
Soon as I get a couple spare dollars I will put them on all axis

 

[Charley Davidson]

Nice work Charley. A tangential tool holder has been on my "to do" list for a long time.

Maybe it's the camera angle or the lighting (or my old eyes) but I can't quite figure out your holding screw. In the first picture it looks like the headstock side of the tool is all vertical in one plane. In the end view I see that the button head screw is a little long and protrudes thru the back side - no big deal. But, the angle of the screw doesn't look right. It doesn't look perpendicular to either the tool or tool holder. Is it just an optical illusion or did you do something special that I can't see?

Steve

PS: Any tips on how to get over being a jerk? My wife says I could use some help in this area. :lmao:

Here's a side view of the tool so you can see how the screw works, Like I said before I need to use a hardened washer as you can see how the washer bent.

 

[outsider347]

Charlie D
Can you please tell me where you found the print or dimensional info for the tool holder?

Nice work !!!

tks