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2015 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter jumps4
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2015
- Messages
- 25
Magic and 80 rpm was challenging enough
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,199
Any machinist worth his salt has made the captive nut 
I used to thread at like 80 or 76 whatever it was, but with much practice my friend you will soon be able to speed that thing up, if you use carbide threading tools your finish will improve drastically. I don't always thread hi speed, I'm still a puss on some things, where I thread slow.
Do some air cuts and see the difference
I used to thread at like 80 or 76 whatever it was, but with much practice my friend you will soon be able to speed that thing up, if you use carbide threading tools your finish will improve drastically. I don't always thread hi speed, I'm still a puss on some things, where I thread slow.
Do some air cuts and see the difference
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2015
- Messages
- 25
Not a machinist by any definition but truely enjoy working with my little southbend. I may speed things up some day but I have allot to learn before I try to get in a hurry. Thanks to every one on this forum I learn allot by reading all the posts and replies.Any machinist worth his salt has made the captive nut
I used to thread at like 80 or 76 whatever it was, but with much practice my friend you will soon be able to speed that thing up, if you use carbide threading tools your finish will improve drastically. I don't always thread hi speed, I'm still a puss on some things, where I thread slow.
Do some air cuts and see the difference
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,199
yes you are too a machinist, your a hobby machinist. your just not a professional machinist
I will say that I was scared of the hi-speed threading, but once I tried it, first I just tried it with the tool far away from the work that there was no chance of a crash, and I would run it up to a mark flip the nut lever up and back out the cross, I did it over and over until I got the motion down, I wont do it unless there is a thread relief large enough for my Nikcole tool to be clear. repetition was key, just like in welding, I always do several "dry" runs of what the bead profile will be so that I can make a great weld. being that you have one successful threading op I don't recommend you go try it now, but you will be doing it sooner than you think. I want to reiterate that not every part should be done in this manner, high count TPI is also slower moving carriage so its easier, as well as safer
I will say that I was scared of the hi-speed threading, but once I tried it, first I just tried it with the tool far away from the work that there was no chance of a crash, and I would run it up to a mark flip the nut lever up and back out the cross, I did it over and over until I got the motion down, I wont do it unless there is a thread relief large enough for my Nikcole tool to be clear. repetition was key, just like in welding, I always do several "dry" runs of what the bead profile will be so that I can make a great weld. being that you have one successful threading op I don't recommend you go try it now, but you will be doing it sooner than you think. I want to reiterate that not every part should be done in this manner, high count TPI is also slower moving carriage so its easier, as well as safer
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2014
- Messages
- 613
W. Mello ,
I like the mini fly cutter .... I've tried to use the lathe as a shaping machine these last two days to cut a 16 tooth gear for the thread counter on my old sphere lathe using a MK 1 eyeball and grind stone to try and get the profile of the teeth.
Sadly after two attempts and a bit of regrinding on the cutter for the second gear its still not worked out too well as the thickness of the teeth is about 10 thou too thin.
I'm desperate to get the thread counter up & running again as I have to make six precision shouldered bolt style clevis type pins that will have a nylock nut & washer on the threaded end . It was only on Friday after noon that I realised that the counter was disengaging every now & then ..... I found it was due to well worn gear teeth almost gouged out like a worm wheel set up , unfortunately there is no more tooth root left to make a deeper engagement .
If it works well I'll buy some Dur-alumin and make a couple more gears a for spares as they are a consumable item after a few years of plenty of use .
May I pick your brain a bit ?
How wide is the cutter blade ?
How did you mark the cutter blade to keep it even across the cut ( if at all ) ?
How did you grind it so accurately ?
WRT .... The fly cutter was that blade groove cut with a flycutter on the lathe as well ?
I've come to the conclusion that making a fly cutter and using the QCTP with a purpose made rod that takes a 32 tooth gear at the front of the carriage , with the other end turned to the gear blank sizes is perhaps the better way forward for I can accurately locate each second tooth root and clamp it up without disturbing anything .
I like the mini fly cutter .... I've tried to use the lathe as a shaping machine these last two days to cut a 16 tooth gear for the thread counter on my old sphere lathe using a MK 1 eyeball and grind stone to try and get the profile of the teeth.
Sadly after two attempts and a bit of regrinding on the cutter for the second gear its still not worked out too well as the thickness of the teeth is about 10 thou too thin.
I'm desperate to get the thread counter up & running again as I have to make six precision shouldered bolt style clevis type pins that will have a nylock nut & washer on the threaded end . It was only on Friday after noon that I realised that the counter was disengaging every now & then ..... I found it was due to well worn gear teeth almost gouged out like a worm wheel set up , unfortunately there is no more tooth root left to make a deeper engagement .
If it works well I'll buy some Dur-alumin and make a couple more gears a for spares as they are a consumable item after a few years of plenty of use .
May I pick your brain a bit ?
How wide is the cutter blade ?
How did you mark the cutter blade to keep it even across the cut ( if at all ) ?
How did you grind it so accurately ?
WRT .... The fly cutter was that blade groove cut with a flycutter on the lathe as well ?
I've come to the conclusion that making a fly cutter and using the QCTP with a purpose made rod that takes a 32 tooth gear at the front of the carriage , with the other end turned to the gear blank sizes is perhaps the better way forward for I can accurately locate each second tooth root and clamp it up without disturbing anything .
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- Joined
- Aug 29, 2013
- Messages
- 1,050
It got down to 35F at my house over the weekend so I decided today might be a good time to start preparing for winter. I went to the shed and pulled out my HF portable generator for a little of what the Army calls PMCS.
I checked the oil, spark plug, air filter, and then ran it for about twenty minutes. Everything was OK but both tires were flat. Now I don't see why I'd need pneumatic tires just to wheel it from the shed if I needed it. And I had four solid tires of the same size that I took off my old lawn mower. So I grabbed two of those. Unfortunately they had 1/2" bushings and the axle was 5/8".
I pulled the axle and chucked it in the lathe. It looked like it had been cut from a longer length of stock with some kind of shear. So I faced and center drilled both ends. Then I turned 3" of each end down to 0.490". This also had the effect of straightening both ends.
I think I can now confidently say that I have one of the most accurately machined HF generator axles around. The wife was impressed to see me doing something "useful" with the lathe for a change.
I checked the oil, spark plug, air filter, and then ran it for about twenty minutes. Everything was OK but both tires were flat. Now I don't see why I'd need pneumatic tires just to wheel it from the shed if I needed it. And I had four solid tires of the same size that I took off my old lawn mower. So I grabbed two of those. Unfortunately they had 1/2" bushings and the axle was 5/8".
I pulled the axle and chucked it in the lathe. It looked like it had been cut from a longer length of stock with some kind of shear. So I faced and center drilled both ends. Then I turned 3" of each end down to 0.490". This also had the effect of straightening both ends.
I think I can now confidently say that I have one of the most accurately machined HF generator axles around. The wife was impressed to see me doing something "useful" with the lathe for a change.
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2015
- Messages
- 1,382
I'm with you, Charles. I don't understand why almost everything on wheels has pneumatic tires. They all go flat after a month. You can hardly find a 2-wheel cart with solid tires. I have air them up everytime I want to roll something.
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2015
- Messages
- 1,382
I scored a 2-3" Mitutoyo micrometer on eBay for $39 this weekend.
This fills out my set of Mitutoyo micrometers from 1 to 3 inches.
First in a pawn shop, the second two on eBay. About $70 for the set of three,
although the first one was purchased back when the moon wasn't any bigger than a nickle.
I think I gave under $10 for it.
This fills out my set of Mitutoyo micrometers from 1 to 3 inches.
First in a pawn shop, the second two on eBay. About $70 for the set of three,
although the first one was purchased back when the moon wasn't any bigger than a nickle.
I think I gave under $10 for it.
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2014
- Messages
- 613
It uses less rubber to have pneumatic tyres , so there is less pollution. Shipping weights are reduced so even more of a pollution reduction . The manufacturers & governments wet themselves at how clever they are ...forgetting that you'll need some sort of inflator device and if it's electricity the running costs over the years.
I've used the flat tyre aerosol repair rattle cans to seal my tyres & tubes from the inside but there is still a few pounds pressure loss over a year or so .. it could be due to the low quality neoprene rubber seal in the inflator valve .
Pneumatic tyres are good on soft or stony ground as the weight is evenly spread across the foot print of the tyre. I changed my caravan jockey wheel to a pneumatic one so there is less strain on the motor-mover system .