2016 POTD Thread Archive

I continued work on my screw bluing tools...
I put a few coats of polyclrilic sealer on the handles I turned last week
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I'm not sure why, but the color I chose for the handles is the one specific color the polyclrilic says not to use it with, red mahogany.

I cut down a piece of 1/4x3" brass flat bar stock (360 brass), cleaned the edges on the mill, filed the burrs and touched up the surface with some 320 grit.
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I layed out the marks for the holes and got to use my home made scribe for the first time!
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Since horology is all about precision I took some time to get the holes aligned perfectly and used a center drill to start all the holes that were 1/8 or larger.
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In the process,
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Done with the holes
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Unfortunately one of the smaller sized holes wasn't so round on the back of the plate so touching it up with a 45 degree countersink was the best I could do after several other failed attempts. I bet you can't drill a triangle hole!
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After cleaning up the surfaces, the piece was still really large visually so I came up with this insanely complex technical drawing...grab your reading glasses,
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So, back to the mill to remove the corners. So far I've only removed the front two corners and just couldn't help but try my hand at beveling a plate (again something for horology in the future) and it didn't come out so bad.
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Anyways, today I'll knock down the back corners, drill and tap a hole for the handle and the feet, turn the feet, and finish up beveling and it'll be done.
 
omni_dilletante said:
A couple of weeks ago my Niece and Nephew had a trash fire get out of hand and burned down their tool shed. They don't have room for a shop, so they store all of their tools in the shed and pull them out as needed. They lost a lot of tools.

Nobody was hurt. Everything is covered by insurance.

But it gave me pause to think of how I would make a claim for everything that was in my shop. Now, I don't know anything about insurance claims; but I figure you need to tell them what you lost if you want them to reimburse you for it.

So today I took 422 pictures. Photos of every piece of equipment. Pulled open every drawer and took a picture. Uploaded the pictures to the cloud. Took me about an hour and a half and I feel much better.

I did not document every little tool, but the photos will certainly jog my memory as to what was in there and provide some documentation to support a claim.
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On this subject you would want to contact your agent and advise him/her about your equipment and you will need to come up with a replacement cost on your items. Your insurance will go up but everything will be covered. You will want to get replacement insurance and not depreciated so that you can actually replace the stuff.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
 
Welded up a BXA toolholder rack for the new lathe out of 0.25x1.5" A36 hot roll. Got a bit of warping from the welds, but nothing critical:

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Clamping it to the table until the welds cooled seemed to help with the warping. It will hold three of the big boring bar holders and about twenty normal size holders. The 0.25x1.5 cross-section fits the BXA dovetails perfectly without any extra machining.

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pstemari what happened to your pictures. I need to make some kind of a tool holder for AXA tool holders. Just starting and only have 5, but if like everything else they need to multiply in order for me to be happy.
 
One of the products my son is promoting (I get to make them) uses in its mechanism a small gear, .280 in diameter, .560 long. It comes in a 12" long extrusion, I have to put the hole in the middle and cut it to length. It eventually gets pinned to a .125 shaft, and is turned by another, larger brass gear. In any case. drilling the hole has been a problem. I'm turning them in my Ames lathe, its collet runs out .0002, but the drilled hole winds up around .005 or.006 runout. Not acceptable. I determined to drill them first .090, second .115, and bore them to .126. I made a boring bar from O1 Drill Rod, turned one end down to .125, relieved the shaft to .110 and free handed the end to be a boring bar. I hardened it and drew it back to light brown. But the tool holder on the Ames wouldn't let me get to tool to center. I had to make a bar holder.
(Hope this picture turns out, I've lost Photoshop and my reliable camera.
Tiny boring bar..JPG
Anyway, its good to be able to make something you need.

Tiny boring bar..JPG
 
I do some small gears from gearbar, and I just use a boring bar to get the ID true, then run a reamer through to get the size. Much quicker and easier than boring to size, and the reamer doesn't negatively affect the runout.
 
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